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  • exhaust studs

    I just broke an exhaust stud I am not sure how it happened but it broke off clean at the cylinder head and even gouged out part of the hole. How do I go about repairing this? Can it be helicoiled?

    HELP!!! Oh and just for fun its the one nearest the frame member...
    Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

  • #2
    You might try an "easy out" screw/bolt extractor. TO do this you dirll a hole in the center of the broken stud (thats the hard part) and then you screw in the easy out. The easy out has reversed threads so when it bites in and grabs it will hopefully start to unthread the broken stud.
    Good luck and take it easy, try lots of penitrating oil
    When I die I want to go in my sleep like my Grandfather,... not screaming like the passangers in his car!

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    • #3
      EXHAUST STUDS

      Lets just say for the sake of saying, that I had already tried that and ended up having to drill out the offending stud, what is the best way to go, helicoil or liquid steel?
      Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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      • #4
        Try cleaning up the hole with a tap. You may be able to save the threads. If not then use a helicoil. Your liquid steel option is not likely to hold up because of the heat. The liquid steel is usually iron/steel filings suspended in a epoxy based product. (plastic)
        Ken/Sooke

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        • #5
          Helicoil by all means.

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          • #6
            If you helicoil you will be tapping a larger hole to screw in the coil, you might be able to try tapping the next size up stud and drilling flange to accept it.
            When I die I want to go in my sleep like my Grandfather,... not screaming like the passangers in his car!

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            • #7
              Thanks all,
              For all of your help! All kinds of good ideas. I will let you know how it goes.
              Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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              • #8
                JB weld = done
                I am a rhinoceros and my skin is three feet thick.
                //////////////WARSENAULT/////////////

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                • #9
                  I think you are right, Ken, it would not hold up! Be careful when drilling for a helicoil. The steel is a lot harder than the aluminum. Maybe start with a small diam bit to ensure it stays centered?

                  Originally posted by ratbyk
                  Try cleaning up the hole with a tap. You may be able to save the threads. If not then use a helicoil. Your liquid steel option is not likely to hold up because of the heat. The liquid steel is usually iron/steel filings suspended in a epoxy based product. (plastic)
                  Ken/Sooke
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                  • #10
                    I had to drill one of mine out, so I had the hole welded up, re-drilled and tapped it. Of course, the head was off!

                    Louis
                    "There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be overcome by
                    brute strength and ignorance" And possibly some Mouse Milk!
                    '82 XJ1100J
                    LED Dir and running lights
                    LED Tail/Brake lights (4) one flashing
                    Modulated H/L
                    PIAA Driving lights
                    YICS Eliminated
                    750 FD

                    Yamaha Factory X-1 Fairing and Luggage

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                    • #11
                      jb weld

                      So do you think that jb weld would hold up?
                      Ego Sum Meus Frater Custodis...

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                      • #12
                        The best way to remove the broken stud is to use a wire welder and build up the stud with weld. With the stud hot get a pair of vise grips turn the stud out.

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                        • #13
                          Stud removal

                          A friend of mine owns a welding and machine shop. He removes broken studs by welding a nut over the remaining stud and simply uses a wrench to back it out ( works 99% of the time). He is not fond of the product JB Weld because it is hard to remove (clean) prior to applying a weld. A product he does use is Marine Tex (sp) for pot metals. I used this on a exhaust pollution control valve to replace a broken nipple. The tube lists a working temperature of 1500 degrees.

                          Big Pat

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