fedexguy again, carb help, thread merged

[fedexguy]

My son and I took the carbs off, cleaned them, set the floats, did the bread wire sync, reinstalled them. Started bike up, started right up and then the idle went higher and higher, shut it down and turned idle screw, started again, adjusted idle, let it warmed up and while still on center stand, put into 1st and it died.
We also put clear fuel hoses on and could see that fuel was not getting into 2 of the carbs. Spoke to friend in Mi. and he said to adjust those floats some to allow the fuel to enter those carbs. This is where we stopped. Any other suggestions? Or are we going in the right direction. Also it appears that 2 of the floats are newer than the other 2, would this make a differance? Should I buy new floats kits and where can I get them?
Thanks,

fedexguy

[fedexguy]

fedexguy again

BTW, we followed the instructions found here.

[randy]

- Don't change 2 float heights, they must all four be the same setting. I assume you set all four the same, so concentrate on fuel delivery problem.

- Recheck Octopus hose connections.

- Have you tried fuel cocks on PRIME?

- Have you pinched a fuel hose? - very common problem.

- Do you have enough gas to fill both sides of the tank?

[fxrer]

Randy's right - all floats should be same height.

Go to this thread (Apr 6) , and read the post from Ken on proper Octopus routing. I just had the same question.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=6581

[RS Thornton]

Getting in this late so you probably already checked, but on the bottom of the valve seat assembly is a screen. Pull it oul and clean it carefully, if it is clogged you can plug of the fuel supply.

When you say you start it is the choke out on the second setting? When the engine takes off move it in first one notch and then another, the motor should slow down.

This is based on a 78E, so if it is covered or does not apply just ignore me.
Scott

[scalded dog]

It sounds like the fuel petcocks, are not working properly, sometimes, even putting it on prime won't do it, also the throttle cable could be worn/not adjusted right. Later 'Dog

[scalded dog]

...one other thing, the diaphrams must beat seated completely in the groove. this is very important, also your diaphrams may have some tiny pinholes in them, there is an entire set of diaphrams on ebay right now. Later 'Dog

[fedexguy]

When we start the bike the choke is not out.
It also appears that the #2 spark plug is not firing as it still looks new, while the other 3 are dark, we did get the fuel lines or carbs adjusted to where the fuel is going into the carbs now.
I'm thinking it might be the coil and we are going to buy some fuel line so as to lift the tank and adjust fuel/air while the engine is running. Another thought we have is that the boots are bad and to much air or there is not not enough vacumm to the carbs. Does this sound like we are going in the right direction?
Thanks for all your input.
fedexguy

[scalded dog]

if you don't have a good seal, on the diaphrams, they won't create enough vacuum, to work properly. Later 'Dog

[RS Thornton]

Either spark or gas is the usual culprit.

Check spark from each cylinder one by one by removing plugs from the cylinder and grounding against the block, spin the engine and watch for the spark. Do not do the test in brightly light area. If yes, go on. Search the forum for "no spark" threads

Not sure I go for the diaphragms as they do not do mutch at idle, you are on the pilot circuit, but check this:

To check bench test diaphragms I push up on the slider and then put my finger over the crescent moon part facing on the air box side of the carb inlet. Compare how the diaphragm drops and you will see if one is leaking past, then you have to decide is it pin holes or is the diaphragm not in the groove.


For fuel restrictions, there is a screen above the petcock and a screen in front of the needle valve. If they are fouled even ist you get the bike going at idle it will starve when you run it. You can also have gunk in the T between the 1/2 and 3/4 carbs. I suggest you pull floats and needle valved out, and blow out the fuel line and T. You can cover the needle valve hole with your finger on one carb and make sure each is blowing clear.

NOTE: I am sure you know this, but do not mix up the parts on the carbs, I use small foil cooking tins from walmart that are 4 for $1, and label the pans with #1, 2 ,3 and 4. This way all my carb parts are separated, and cannot roll away on you.

My bet is on the fuel supply because if you had gas and no spark you would have a wet plug. Spark and no gas can leave a clean plug .

Note on the choke; my bikes will not start cold without the choke,( even the royal stars can be fussy and they have carb heaters) so you may want to try the choke out for starting and then adjust the idle speed down and see if it runs. For what it is worth, when the bike warms it races up to 3-4000 rpm and I go to 1st choke setting, the bike warms up some more and then races again, then I take off the choke and ride it.