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**corey** · 04-07-2005, 09:33 AM

Windshield is vary do-able. Look around, you'll find one. Try eBay.

As far as the choking and sputtering when you went out last: did you let it warm up all the way? My bike has some of those characteristics when it's cold, so it might just not be ready to go. Not that my bike is normal, it needs some carb work. But once it's warmed up, it does fine.

In other words: Might try warming it up. If it runs fine, then, perhaps you can better diagnose the problem.

**fxrer** · 04-07-2005, 09:58 AM

Hi fedexguy,

If you‘ve read this forum in the past, you realize that carbs are the number one issue with these old bikes. Most frequent cause of drivability issues. Sounds like they are surely the cause of your problems, especially since the bike sat idle for a long time. You can read many posts for additives like Sea Foam or Sta-bil that prevent the buildup of varnish, and gum. Essential for a good running bike.

In this forum. you will also often see the phrase “triple clean” which is what needs to be done to these carbs when they get gunked up.
Since you had the carbs off once, you accomplished the most difficult part of the process. The cleaning part is straight forward - there are threads in the maintenance section on how to do this. Also the Clymer manual explains it pretty well, too.

A thorough cleaning involves separating the carbs, removing all the rubber parts, and soaking each carb in cleaning solvent (available at auto parts stores.) This is time consuming, but not too difficult. Just do one at a time, and keep track of the parts. And don’t break the float post when trying to remove the float pin. Read the thread about how to use side cutter pliers to do this.

But, if you really don’t feel comfortable, and need the mechanic, then at least save yourself some $ by taking only the carbs to him. (and, you don’t have to trailer the bike). I can’t predict what he would charge (bike mechanics around here get $50/hr, min). But I would say that to do it right, a mechanic might charge you for 3-4 hours labor to dismantle, clean and reassemble. (unless he charges you for soaking time!).

From what you have said, it’s 95% sure your problems are carb related (since it ran fine before you stored the bike). So, no questions need to be asked - just cleaning.

As for windshields and bags, yes, many available - there are pictures in this forum of other riders’ bikes equipped with bags & shields. Lots of aftermarket stuff can be fitted.

The 4 into 1 pipes are always going to sound “whiny” - like a GP race car engine. That’s the beauty of these Japanese inline fours - a sweet sound. Some setups are louder than others - maybe the baffles can be changed to quiet them down.

I had 4-to1 pipes once, but changed back to the factory pipes, and I still like that sound best. Plus, I think it gives the best combo of performance and fuel economy. Trouble is, you can’t find them any more.

Good luck with your project Riding season is upon us!

**fedexguy** · 04-07-2005, 12:34 PM

Thx Corey and Fixer I'll look at the book as I have one and see if I feel I can do the cleaning myself. if not then maybe 2-3 hundred will be worth it. Thx again
fedexguy

**pathfinder** · 04-07-2005, 10:22 PM

The carbs can't be bad enough that you can't do it yourself. I got my 78 XS about 15 years ago and it had sat for 6 before that with a partial tank of gas. Carbs were gummed up bad. At that time I had never ridden let alone worked on a bike. Lack of funds and a drunken boast (another long story) had me doing it all myself without this site, and no book. Motor was locked up (marvel mystery oil) fixed that. Brakes front and rear locked solid. Took apart cleaned both M/C's 2 or 3 times until I found what was later described as the dreaded spooge hole and all brake parts. Petcocks were clogged solid, cleaned and flipped the rubber gasket to the good side so it wouldn't leak anymore. Carbs were done last in my living room on a piece of plastic (so you don't lose any parts) and a bunch of carb cleaner. First SWMBO was not very happy with me, maybe thats why shes gone and I still have the bike. I did not take them of the rails It looked to difficult at the time. After all the trouble getting them off the bike it was even more diffficult to get the carbs back on. I only had to do the carb cleaning once.
This bike has run every year since this fixing many years ago, without any trouble.

**rneal55555** · 04-07-2005, 11:05 PM

When I got mine it had sat most of the winter with untreated gas it fire kick over just enough to pick up the headlight relay but not run. I pulled the bank of carbs removed the diaphragm covers and diaphragms, the float bowls , main jets, floats and needle valves. Sprayed about 3/4 it seemed like of spray carburetor cleaner into every port and part of the carbs I could blew out with compressed air. Reassembled and reinstalled dumped the old gas and refilled with fresh gas and a dose of Sea foam it started right up ran a little rough at first but straightened up after a few mile test ride. Mine had only sat one winter so it couldn't have been that gummed up that bad, but you might try it before you spend a couple of hundred to have the mechanic do it. It's not going to work every time but what have you got to lose but a little time and if you son helps it's a bonding thing(that to touchy feely).

**Czekus21** · 04-08-2005, 04:40 AM

When you pull the carbs ,, DON'T ,, seperate them from the bank.
You'll end up doing more then you need to and will also need to replace more parts then you'll need to. Regardless if you pull the carbs and take them in or if you do them yourself, You may want to invest in a carb syncronizer. For your bike to run right, they need to be sunk up. If your planning on keeping this bike for awhile then it is a wise investment. If you take your bike to the local shop, do you trust them? There are ALOT of war stories about older bikes and newer repair shops.

Prices... If you do them yourself,,, 4 rebuild kits aprox $80.00,, vaccume syncro's from, JCW, $40.00,, knowledge gained,, priceless,
Repair shop,, aprox $200.00 - $400.00 ownership of a tool that can be used on other multi-carbed engines none,,,knowledge gained from shop screwin it up, priceless.

Even after you spend the $$$ at the local shop,, You may still need to take them apart yourself for multi-cleanings. Oh,, Back to prices,, Just a good cleaning and sycro, $2.50 can of gunk carb cleaner,, and then of course, can't forget the sycro's,, Oh,, one more thing,, You do have your manual right?

**Parr8hed** · 04-08-2005, 06:43 AM

I just went through this with my carbs and I was able to rebuild and clean them. I am sure that if I can, you can. It is not that hard once you break it down piece by piece. Don't be scared of the carb cleaner and penetrating oil! The compressed air really helped too. I blew out all of the little jets and holes even if I did not know what they were. Did you change plugs? Try that too and warm her up and take her out for a long test drive.

I have fitted both bags and sheild to my bike. I just have a little windscreen of the front. I think that it came off of a Honda nighthawk 750. I just had to find one with a square headlight opening. The bags took a little trimming on the leather on the connecting strap. A little hard to get the seat on, but it is great to be able to take stuff with you. I don't have them on right now because I just don't care for their looks, but they are there if I need them. I go them off of ebay too. There are pics on the Yahoo site.

Just take your time and use patience and I am sure that you can meet all of your goals.

**newmaac** · 04-08-2005, 08:43 AM

fedexguy, I am going to agree with Czekus21.
Unless the carbs are really trashed inside, I don't feel that it is necessary to pull apart the bank. I have seen some pretty grungy carbs brought back to life without taking them apart.

In the "tech section", on the left of your screen @ the XS11 home page, there is a pretty good written description of removal, disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly.
There was an even more thorough version around several years ago, but I was not able to find it this AM. Written by Ken maybe??

Does anyone out there have a copy of the triple clean tips, where the cleaning instructions included a description of each and every orifice?
When I did mine, those instructions were invaluable.
It was re-assuring to follow the step-by-step instructions, knowing that I had not missed something, because of my lack of experiance. After doing this a few times, it really is easy. Just be methodical.
Don't forget a couple pairs of safety glasses when you go buy the spray carb cleaner.
Also, I would not buy any carb kits until you have the carbs disassembled. In most cases, all you need is the carb cleaner and time. Compressed air is helpful, but not necessary.

Go for it!

**skids** · 04-08-2005, 05:32 PM

Here is a tip that I have on my page. It is better than nothin' for a beginner...

http://home.earthlink.net/~sidskids/carbs/spraycarb.htm

Sid "Skids"

Originally posted by newmaac

In the "tech section", on the left of your screen @ the XS11 home page, there is a pretty good written description of removal, disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly.
There was an even more thorough version around several years ago, but I was not able to find it this AM. Written by Ken maybe??

Does anyone out there have a copy of the triple clean tips, where the cleaning instructions included a description of each and every orifice?

Go for it!

**TopCatGr58** · 04-08-2005, 07:00 PM

Hey there FedexGuy,

The others have said enough about the carbs, and saddlebags/windshield. As for the tinny sound, yeah, my 4-1 pipes had the same rice rocket sound. So..that's why I drilled out the end of the baffle with just some 1/4" diameter holes, 4 of them, and it lowered the tone nicely, not really any louder. I figured that if it was too loud or didn't help the sound/tone, then I could just put some 1/4" sheet metal screws or nut/bolt combos in it to seal them back up, but it worked fine!
T.C.

**newmaac** · 04-08-2005, 11:22 PM

Hey Sid, Thanks for posting that link.
That was exactly what I was referring to. I will print it out to put in my "binder of goodies".
That is a great description of the cleaning process. Well done

**IMIX** · 04-09-2005, 10:04 AM

I found a great windshield at National Cycle. They have a search by bike.
These are available for the SF.
I got the N2567, looks awesome!!

**fedexguy** · 04-09-2005, 07:44 PM

Thx everyone. My son and i took the carbs off and noticed one of the float bowls was down lower than the others. I need to purchase some of the items afore mentioned and I believe I'll be able to do this with all the info I'm finding here. Also thanks for the info on the pipes and windshield.

fedexguy

**fredintoon** · 04-09-2005, 11:00 PM

Getting the pins out

Believing the mantra:-
"90% of carb problems are really ignition problems"
I fought with my iggy for a week before I dip-cleaned my #4 carb and was running on all 4 again immediately thereafter.
However, here is a wonderful tip from the YAM650 list.
To remove the float pivot pin and NOT bust off the frail sh*tmetal posts it goes through, use a spring-loaded centrepunch on the small end of the pin. "Click" and she's out, every time.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

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