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  • idiot lights or is it me

    On my XJ the center light above the speedo and tach flashes all of the time except for a few instances after I push the test button on the dash area. Then it stays on, is it supposed to?

    Second question: Is there a way to get rid of the kick stand indicator. I realize that the PO had taken the kickstand switch off the bike but is there a way to tie the kick stand wires together to get rid of the indicator.

    Third question: The gas sensor doesn't appear to be working properly is there a way to test whether is it a float problem or an electrical problem? My brake indicator is now staying on full time. I have rebuilt the brake system with stainless steel tubes, rebuilt the master cylenders, center bike and handle bars, and have new brakes all the way around. The switch on the MC mid bike is new and works well. Any help on this.

    deo
    82 XJ1100 "Resurrected"
    Riding with the Son

  • #2
    Hey there Deo,

    Regrettably I don't remember the XJ's layout very well. I think that blinking light is to get your attention to check out the gauges to see what "Warning" needs attention. And after hitting the test light, it stays on to tell you there still is a problem that hasn't been fixed!?

    Here's a quote from JERRY regarding the side stand switch:
    Follow the wire up from the switch. It joins the main harness at the rear of the fuel tank. (No need to remove the tank.) Unplug the switch. There are 3 wires in the connector. On the bike side, jump all 3 wires together. I made a 3-way connector out of speaker wire and 1/4 inch slip-on spade connectors that works well.

    This mod makes the bike think the side stand is always in the up position.

    I've been running my XJ this way since 2001, don't recall if the bad switch prevents cranking or bike just won't start. In any case, the bypass eliminates one variable.
    The fuel sender is a variable resistor, only 2 wires, both going to the 'puter. On the sender side, put an ohmeter on it and see what readings you get, tilt the tank forward/back or whichever way you can to see if the ohmmeter changes in value. The float can sometimes fall off the arm, the wires which are exposed inside the tank can get corroded, and the wire that rubs against the coil of wound wire can not be making contact very well, etc. You may need to empty the tank and take the sender off to inspect it and clean it up....there's a rubber seal that it seals against so you should be able unbolt it and then put it back together.

    I read about the sending units inside the MC's can go bad, Jerry suggested unplugging one at time, jumping the wire and see if the light goes out, when it does, you've found the suspect unit. You can then either bypass it by keeping the wire jumped, or investigate further about repairing it. I found a thread about the brake wire warning lights on an XJ, a magnet switch on a sliding mechanism that is inside the MC, the guy had a spare he was going to swap, but didn't post his success!?

    Hopefully Jerry or other XJers will chime in here with any more pointers
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      TC

      Great to see you on the boards. Thanks for the heads up on the side stand. I had read that somewhere but I did a search and didn't come up with anything.

      I have been doing a good bit of riding with this nice weather we are having. I had thought to ride down your way but my new job has made bike riding a local thing. I travel too much with the work and SWMBO is very adamate that I stay at home as much as possible.

      Have you ever had any problems with the brake lights staying on? There is a switch below the MC and it is connected to the foot pedal and it seems to be the cause of the problem. This switch is new and yet it doesn't release correctly. Is there something I could spray in there to help it release without causing problems to the switch?

      Keep the good advise coming and we will listen or read, which ever.
      deo
      82 XJ1100 "Resurrected"
      Riding with the Son

      Comment


      • #4
        xj

        had a rear pedal do the same on my xj. i ended up taking off the whole pedal assy. and sanded it up and greased it up ,cause it was a bit tight and kept the brake light on.Not only that was causing the brake to drag a bit.
        1982 XJ 1100
        going strong after 60,000 miles

        The new and not yet improved TRIXY
        now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks,

          I am getting a bit of drag as well but the free play on the pedal is substantial. I will check that out.

          deo
          82 XJ1100 "Resurrected"
          Riding with the Son

          Comment


          • #6
            On both my XJ and XS the brake was sticking a little. All I did was take a small wrench when I rode. If the brake (front or rear) stuck and started draggin...I simply stopped, bled a few drops off the caliper to release the pressure, then continued on my way. One day I bled those brakes 3 or for times.

            I also washed the caliper with soap and water then sprayed it with WD40. I guess just working the brake finally freed it up...on both bikes. Never had 'em stick since.

            Comment


            • #7
              Maxim,

              Great idea, I have done the bleed once and got some relief but didn't carry a wrench with me. That sounds like a good solution. this bike has had a lot of garage time and that is good and not good for the working parts.

              Love my XJ, particularly because SWMBO has said it is my bike and my only bike. Can't convince her otherwise so there is no harley in the picture. Got to fix and go, fix and go.

              deo
              82 XJ1100 "Resurrected"
              Riding with the Son

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Deo,

                I've been on the boards almost daily, more like glad to see YOU on here again. That switch is just a simple on/off switch, in a plastic housing. If you've got enough free play in the brake lever so that where the switch spring is attached moves close enough to release tension but the switch doesn't retract all the way back in, then could be a piece of plastic on the plunger sticking?

                Have you pulled the spring off the retainer, and tried pulling and releasing the switch alone to see if it still snags?? If so, then check it for imperfections in the molding. Otherwise, you could spray some white lithium spray lube on it!

                Glad you're getting some riding in, and avoiding those curbs and such! !! I haven't done much this year yet, have more tinkering to do to Godzilla, I'll be going to the NY rally July 4th. Hope to get to Richmond raceway for some 1/8th or 1/4mile runs, and also want to find a dyno.
                T.C.
                T. C. Gresham
                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                History shows again and again,
                How nature points out the folly of men!

                Comment


                • #9
                  TC,

                  You are so right, I haven't been on the boards for the longest time. I have been up to my ears in travel and such.

                  I think that the suggestion of the sticky plastic is the idea that makes the most sense in my pea brain. It has worked intermitently and this maybe just the thing.

                  I will give it a shot when I get back in the country.

                  deo
                  82 XJ1100 "Resurrected"
                  Riding with the Son

                  Comment

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