headlight mounting ears

[DeanR]

Does anyone know if bent headlight mounting ears (no kinks) can be bent back to straight? The chrome is great except for the bends and the resulting sideways offset of the headlight. Also, having never worked on forks before, would it be very involved to put on another set of ears if I have to as well as a new Yamaha front emblem thing on the forks? Thanks

[John]

It's not all that hard, really. You will need to get the fork tubes out of the upper tree, and at least flush with the lower tree, and then you can slide the ear out. Watch for the thin trim rings that are on top and bottom of the ears. They may drop off and hide somewhere under your bench. I almost think that it would be easier to remove the tire completely and use a scissors, or a floor jack to support the front of the bike. Put a small piece of wood on the jack pad to prevent any damage to the oil filter cup. That is where you'll want to place the jack. Next loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tree and the nut and bolt from the upper tree. If your bike is a Special, then you'll need to remove the turn signal stalks, as they attach the headlight bucket to the ears. Note how much fork tube, if any, is protuding above the upper tree. Twist and pull down and the fork tube should slide out fairly easily. Use a little light lube on the tubes for reassembly. Once the new ear is installed, slide the fork tube back into place to the same position as before, tighten the bolts in the trees, and move to the other side. Lather, rinse, repeat... You can probably work/hammer the bends out of the old ears, and make it look respectful, or there are some on ebay right now.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Laxdad,

Another approach would be to take off the handlebars, and the upper triple tree, leaving the lower tree and clamps tight to keep it in place, again support the front of the frame, and block the front wheel to keep it from turning.

I have to do this myself, and I didn't want to mess with the front wheel, and getting the tubes out line, so this is the approach I was thinking of using. As long as I keep "some" pressure on the frame and lower tree, then pulling the upper tree off won't cause a problem with the bearings and fork steering shaft.
T.C.

[bkr]

Top Tree

Hey TC You can remove the top tree and not have to worry about the lower tree , it is held on by a seperate nut under the top tree. Good time to check for bearing lube and adjustment. bkr

[DeanR]

Is there anything to watch out for when removing the top tree and bars, or hints on diassembly? What should I be aware of with the center steering section/bolt and do you need the front of the bike supported as in Johns idea. Thanks everyone

[bkr]

Headlight Brackets

Hey laxdad Depends on how much work you want to do. John and TC both get the same results. You can check your steering head brng's. easier when you do it TC's way. Good Luck. bkr

[Do Lee]

Sometimes when you remove the handlebars it's a good idea to use a plastic bag around the front brake master cylinder to protect painted bike parts from brake fluid seepage. My reservoir has a tendency to leak around the rubber diaphragm, bushing and cap.

[DeanR]

thanks for the tip