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Check tranny on non-running XS1100

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  • Check tranny on non-running XS1100

    Hi -

    I have a '79 XS1100 that I am going to put into a 2F1R trike, like http://nortonshrike.com. I know - that might be sacriligeous to some of you, but that is what I bought it for.

    The bike is not running now, but will not take much - it fires on starter fluid so I figure just clean the carbs and I am done.

    After reading up on these bikes on the web a little bit, I discover that some of them have had problems with their transmission.

    My question: Is there a way to check the operation of the tranny without the bike running, and without taking it apart? I would rather know now that it is going to take more work than I want to put into it than after I get it running.

    Thanks -

    Mark

  • #2
    Well, Mark,

    The problem shows up when the tranny and bike are under load, like trying to take off in 1st and 2nd, the pressure of the engine trying to turn the gears, and the wearing down of the contact points of the gear's dogs and slots is what causes them to slide apart, and then you get the "Stutter-jerk-pop" sensation as it pops out of engagement and then back in!

    You might be able to put it into 1st or 2nd, then block the rear wheel with a piece of wood in the spokes to prevent it from turning, and then take a wrench to the left engine crank timing bolt, although you might get better leverage with a bar in the alternator flywheel inside the right engine cover, and turn the engine in the direction of running, and see if you can get the tranny to slip. Not sure how much torque would be required to be definitive, but I know the main clutch boss nut takes up to 75ft/lbs to secure it, just wouldn't want you applying so much that you would break something....like the left engine timing cover plate!?

    Then, "IF" if doesn't let go with a considerable amount of torque being applied, then you might be able to infer that the tranny is not worn too excessively to cause the 1st/2nd gear malady!?
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info - looks like I might just be better off getting the bike running enough to test-ride it.

      Thanks -

      Mark

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      • #4
        Topcat,

        That was the best explanation I have heard for a 1st gear problem. That was what I was trying to describe on my bike and did not understand it previously.

        When I open the throttle in first all the way and get near 5-6k, I feel a quick hesitation and then the bike takes off again. If I keep the throttle open all the way, it may happen again.

        I guess my 80g is a possible for a first gear fix in the future. Although I don't know if I feel confident to do this myself. Wish I had someone down here that I could have help with to check and do this repair with/for me.

        This never happens in second though.
        Owned by a pair of XS11's. An 80 Standard and a 79 Special.

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        • #5
          transmission parts xs11

          In case you need to repair your xs11 transmission I have lots of misc trans pieces in a box from a xs11 trans that was running when I pulled it apart. Also have a complete xs11 trans w/o 1/2 gear problem in another box (every piece) cleaning out my shop. Just in case you find a problem in yours. e-mail to Andreashweiss@yahoo.com

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          • #6
            Hey there ThumperJSA,

            Well, all of the bikes I've test ridden with the 1st gear malady actually occured at very low rpms, like when you are just trying to take off in 1st gear, 3-4K rpms!! Both were XJ's, and one was so badly beaten, that anything above idle was too much and it would skip, wouldn't even get a thunk in and out, it sounded more like a machine gun or air ratchet wrench.

            It's been so many years(decade+) since mine went out, that I have a hard time remembering the symptoms, but, yeah, I guess it did happen at slightly higher rpms when the engine was applying more torque/pressure, and it would pop out and back in! My 1st gear went first, then trying to baby it, shifted into 2nd sooner, and a few months later, it crapped out, that's when I parked it in '92 . Resurrected in in 2000!

            Just glad to add to someone's understanding of this condition. Before I tore mine down, I had never worked on a BIKE engine, just V-8's, carbs, and such. I had done engine rebuilds, so I was familiar with torquing sequences and such. Then the rest was just helped by all the Info in Ken Talbot's pages(BIG THANKS), and my Clymers. I know Transmissions are scary, but this repair really isn't so bad!! Wish I was in your area, I'd definitely offer to help! If you do attempt this, touch up 2nd/5th while you're in there!!
            T.C.
            T. C. Gresham
            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
            History shows again and again,
            How nature points out the folly of men!

            Comment


            • #7
              Well, other than missing a quick skip in first, shifting is not bad at all. Other than the usual neutral to first gear clunk.

              I would rather work with someone who has done it. Might be more worth it to ship the engine to someone who has done it before then bring it to a local wrench with printed out instructions.

              I have done some minor wrenching when I was in my late teens. Some things I have done on my bike like rebuilding petcocks, replacing intakes and adjusting carb floats. I have not got much further other than electrical work. So far I farmed out clutch rebuild, carb rebuild and sync. Although I did do a carb rebuild myself on my car when I was younger.

              I know one thing I need to do is adjust the valves too. I don't feel confident enough to take the camshaft off. So I need to get a shim tool and then mark as to what sizes. I checked the valve distances a couple of months back. Many of the valves I could not get a .10 through most of the valves. I think they should be .19 and .25. I threw out my old gap gauge which was no good and bought a new one from Napa so I know the guage was OK.

              Considering the low compression of 100 -125 in my cylinders and it going up with some oil in the cylinders, I am looking at a ring job anyway. Again, something I don't have the tools or the technique to do on my own.

              I would rather pay someone from the list that has worked on thier own bike and believes in quality work than bring it to a local wrench. Although I would rather work on it myself with guidance of an expert so I can get the experience. I am more concerned with not putting everything back together right, firing up the engine and it litterally explodes all over me.
              Owned by a pair of XS11's. An 80 Standard and a 79 Special.

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