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  • My last dumb question

    Is the Cateroil 10/40 the same for cars? Also where do you get the Frame Filters? Any auto parts store? Napa? Or on line? Or dealership?

    Thanks!
    BST
    Brian S. Tinsley

  • #2
    Last Dumb Question

    Hey tennis23 Not so dumb ,if you don't know,( ASK ). If you mean Castrol 10\ 40 oil bike oil is different than car oil. Bike oil is made has different stuff in it. You should be able to get a filter at any dealer or auto parts store. You will get better results with 20\50 Castrol MC oil. bkr

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    • #3
      Bike Oil

      Hey tennis 23 Sorry about the mistake in 3rd. sentence, should read Bike oil is made with different stuff.bkr

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      • #4
        All oil is the same

        Hey BKR, I am sorry to say this but you have been fooled by an oil company marketing skam. There is no difference between auto and bike oil. You just pay a premium price for the bike oil. Here is a link from this site to back up my statements.Bike Oil
        Dan ( A.K.A.- MacGyver )

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        • #5
          Fram Filters

          Do you have a Advanced Auto near you they carry them.I use a Fram ch6002 filter. Here is there web site.Advance Auto . They also ship if you do not have one local.
          Dan ( A.K.A.- MacGyver )

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          • #6
            excess11 - The article you quoted only addresses the viscosity retention and thermal breakdown.

            While it's true that most auto oils do as good if not better job of fighting thermal degredation, the BIG question is whether auto oils effect slippage in a motorcycle's wet clutch.

            The bike manufacturer's claim that the friction modifiers added to many auto oils will cause clutch slippage and over time premature clutch failure.

            The thermal breakdown / viscosity rentention issue isn't as critical as it once was.

            Having said that, know this...I personally use automotive oil in my bikes. But I do go for oils that have no friction modifiers added. that would include any oil that DOES NOT say "energy conserving" on the API label on the back of the container.

            The ONLY "winter" oil I've found in auto oils that meets this criterion is Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30. All other 5w based oils seem to have friction modifiers.
            Last edited by MAXIMAN; 02-03-2005, 08:00 PM.

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            • #7
              Oil

              I did some more research and friction modifiers are an issue for wet clutches. I am not sure how to tell if an oil has them or not? You are correct this article does not look at the aspect of additives like friction modifiers. I have been running rotella 15-40 in my bike and have not had any issues.
              Dan ( A.K.A.- MacGyver )

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              • #8
                I've always used auto oil in my bikes and have had no clutch slippage.
                YMMV
                Pat Kelly
                <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

                1978 XS1100E (The Force)
                1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
                2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
                1999 Suburban (The Ship)
                1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
                1968 F100 (Valentine)

                "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

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                • #9
                  There are some interesting articles on oil in the tech tips There really is no right answer. If a clutch has minimal wear many have used synthetics with no problem and swear by it. Others with a clutch that has more wear get slipping after changing to synthetic. It sometimes goes away by switch back to petroleum based oil sometimes not. I have heard basically the same type of reports from guys that have used auto oil with friction modifiers. You can tell if oil has friction modifiers by looking at the API mark on the oil if it says "energy conserving" in the lower half it has the modifiers if it doesn't say it doesn't have them and should be OK in any bike. Usually it is the 5w-30 oils that are marked that way. I currently have Castrol GTX 20-50 car oil in my XS 650, Havoline 10-40 Motorcycle oil in the XS1100(it was on sale) only a nickel more than the Castrol. Generally I default to Castrol GTX a lot of guys on the various lists I follow like Shell Rottela or one of the other diesel oils, but I think it really doesn't make much difference as long as its not rated "Energy conserving". As long as you change it every 3000 miles or so. I don't think synthetics are that much better (worth the extra cost) if you change oil every 3000 miles. I do use synthetic in my Ford Ranger because sometimes the mileage gets away from me. If you want to spend a couple of days reading about it, type "motorcycle oil" in google and have it then make up your own mind.
                  Russ Neal
                  Milton, NH
                  04 GL1800 ABS
                  04 Kawasaki Concours(Sold)
                  99 Royal Star Venture(Sold)
                  80 XS1000 Special(Sold)
                  83 XJ750 Midnight Maxim(Sold)
                  80 XS1100G(Sold)
                  81 XS 650 Special(Sold)

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                  • #10
                    bIKE oIL

                    Hey EXCESS11 Would you explain to my Physics Prof. at University of New Brunswick why his results are different than (yours) or whoever's you are using. Maybe his lab equipment is shot. Energy conserving addetives is just one difference. The difference in car oil and bike oil is $5.00 . Cheap price for peace of mind. bkr

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                    • #11
                      I tried using synthetic motorcycle oil. It is expensive. Because of this, I was inadvertently extending drain times. I am using Shell Rotella now and I keep it changed. I know synthetic oil is the most durable, but it still gets dirty. Also, I like to stick with 15W40.
                      Marty (in Mississippi)
                      XS1100SG
                      XS650SK
                      XS650SH
                      XS650G
                      XS6502F
                      XS650E

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                      • #12
                        Re: bIKE oIL

                        Originally posted by bkr
                        Hey EXCESS11 Would you explain to my Physics Prof. at University of New Brunswick why his results are different than (yours) or whoever's you are using. Maybe his lab equipment is shot. Energy conserving addetives is just one difference. The difference in car oil and bike oil is $5.00 . Cheap price for peace of mind. bkr
                        Yep...the proof is in the the pudding. I personally know three guys that have or have had old 1100s. They all got upwards of 100,000 mile with no serious problems and they all used ....drum roll....

                        CAR OIL.

                        One used Castrol 10-30 (nothing but) the other guys used something else but it was your garden variety of motor oil. The key is to CHANGE IT.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Oil

                          If your teacher is so great at physics than why is he teaching. A teachers salary is way lower than someone in that is in the industry. It never made sense to me why a person making 60k a year is training people to make 125k a year. Maybe you need a class in psychiatry to figure that out!
                          Dan ( A.K.A.- MacGyver )

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                          • #14
                            bIKE oIL

                            Hey EXCESS11 The Prof. that teaches at university does it because he is educated. Some people read a book and think they can skip university. This prof. makes $160,000 a year and perks. He also has a friend who will check your head if you want . I don't need any classes to figure out you are an ignorant a** hole, not your average biker you find on this site.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Tennis23;
                              If you are not confused by now, you will be. For the filter, you can order the Fram from Schuck's, as I know you have those up there. The oil can be any good 10-40, Castrol, Valvaline, etc. Keeping it changed is the secret to long engine and clutch life. I just bought my eleven and started with an oil change, and will be doing the second change this weekend, at 1,500 miles. I used Rotella 10-40, and will be going to synthetic after the next change. I do like Mobil 1, and run it in all my vehicles. I've had good luck with it in my earlier xs1100's. I didn't have a clutch problem, but I do make sure the cable is oiled and clutch is properly adjusted.
                              Ray
                              Ray Matteis
                              KE6NHG
                              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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