First Failure

[Pat Kelly]

The $60 Gem suffered a complete and total power failure today.
On the way to work (5:15am, foggy, 50' visability) the bike made a slight 'pop' then 2 seconds later everything died.
Engine quit, all lights went out, no electrical power whatsoever.
Coasted to a parking lot (my bank) and called SWMOB to come take me the rest of the way to work. I hung-up and started to look for the culprit. First thing I checked was the main fuse (switched to ATC fuse bloack last summer). Main fuse (30 amp) was good. I put it back in and tried the key. YAY! I'm on my way!
Called SWMOB back and told her to go back to sleep.
Made it the rest of the way to work with no problem.
Looks likeI have a gremlin (besides my 14 year-old cat named Gremlin).

[Dennyz]

Check the red braded wire just aft of the fuse panel. I had 2 XSs that did the same thing. It turned out to be a corroded crimp on the connector.

[MartyA]

Two years ago mine did the same thing at work - total power failure, no lights, no horn, battery at full at ~14v. I popped the main fuse out to look at it, it was fine. Put it back in and varoom, all systems go. When I got home the same thing. I took a look at all the fuses. The fuse clips were all corroded and not making contact with the fuses. I pulled two fuses and two of the clips came with the fuses.

I put some in-line holders in as a quick fix, will probably get to putting in a real fuse panel this summer.

[Pat Kelly]

I'm thinking it was my kill switch (by the throttle). It dosen't rotate but will cut-out if you jiggle it. I hit a fairly large pothole just before the lights went out (and coils).

[MAXIMAN]

I've read where 90% of motorcycle electrical problems are due to poor connections.

I remember when I got my 750 Maxim the headlight was very dim. I thought the generator rotor or stator was bad. But before I spent the bux to change it I took a suggestion from this forum and cleaned every connection on the bike with electra-clean.

In the process I observed my fuse box was a real mess. I wound up building a new one with parts from radio shack and all new fuse clips. I also discovered (in the cleaning process) a loose ground cable on the frame.

When I started the bike back up the headlight was like an arc welder...very bright. It's been good and bright since then...about 7 months and 3 or 4,000 miles now.

[rneal55555]

Have had kinda the same thing happen to me. Usually when I first swith to heaver gloves as it gets colder I'm not used the the extra thiknes of the gloves and somehome manage to hit the kill switch with them.

[Pat Kelly]

No problem on the way home, the long way home . I think it was the bike reminding me it's 26 years old .
I've been searching for the cable I bought years ago to make some new battery cables. I found the ends but after moving 8 times I don't remember which box the wire is in (but I know it's there, I don't throw anything away).

[jetmechmarty]

new fuse box

I had this problem with my XS650 in the past year. I replaced the fuse box with one just like the original from Mike's XS. It's simple and just like original. I say this because Parts 'n More lists the same thing for the XS Eleven. Since the first one lasted 25 years, I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with one like original.

[DiverRay]

Pat;
If the kill botton is that bad, you probably need to rebuild the handle bar switch. It takes about an hour, and will make everything work like new. I had to fix my turn signal switch, and used the dielectric grease on all moving parts, as well as around the connections. The grease is expensive, but keeps water out of everything, and keeps parts moving like they should. I will be doing the right side this weekend, as my kill switch won't turn. As bad as the left side was, I know it just needs cleaning and grease.
Ray