Valve Adjustment

[Czekus21]

The reason for checking the adjustment on the carbs is because changing the valve clearances, you are changing the way that the motor breaths. Pretty simple operation with a manual by your side. The reason for the cam chain is just for good measure. Since your working on it, might as well re adjust it. It only takes a few seconds. To turn the motor over by hand ( whitch you'll need to do when doing the valves ) Pull the left cover ( as your sitting on the bike ) their will be a bolt head. also in this cover is the ignition pick-up coils and advance system, as well as your markings for adjusting the cam chain. Next to the markings for the chain is the indicators for top dead center.

[jazzrat2000]

OK, I followed what you are saying, maybe I'll give it a shot...

[scalded dog]

to turn the motor over by hand, take the left rounded cover off, take the spark plugs out, use a wrench on the timing plate bolt, it is 17 mm, I think. turn it clockwise, several times, if you have adjusted the cam chain before, this procedure should have been followed. Later 'Dog

[Czekus21]

After you get into working on your own bike, You'll thank yourself for not taking it to a repair shop. Up hear in Siox Falls, I was quoted $200.00 just to pull the cover and check the valves. If any work needed to be done then the price goes up. They charge $10.00 a shim and more for a gasket. Could get spendy real quick.
Then after you get your bike back and find out it doesn't run right, Ya got to take it back to them to adjust the carbs ( whitch of coarse always needs to be rebuilt at $100.00 apiece ) By the time it's said and done ya got around $1000.00 into it and no garrentee it's gonna run the way you want it.

[fxrer]

Dr. Tim,

While there is a weatlh of great info available from memebers of this forum, again, a manual is a must. If you are adjusting your valves, cam chain, or whatever, the job goes much easier if you can follow along in a manual.

There are always manuals available on E-Bay - there are two on auction right now, with bids around $10. Look under E-Bay motors, parts & accessories, > manuals & literature, > motorcycle, > Yamaha XS.

New ones are available many other places, too. Check these.

http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1980/69/7/3025

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/Misc/M.../YamFours.html

If a procedure isn’t explained thoroughly enough, there are plenty of members here who can clarify.

With a manual and a little practice, you can go from novice to expert in no time.
And as CR points out you'll save a ton of $ and have the satisfaction of knowing your own machine.

Good luck

[thumperjsa]

Yes you do Jazzrat, you did it when you did the cam adjuster. It is just turning the crank with a tool on the side of the motor tather than hitting the starter button. This way if you messed up, you will feel it rather that hurting it.

[jazzrat2000]

once again I must say it is great to be a part of this group! I am going to take a look at the valves as soon as the tool I got comes...

[jazzrat2000]

just talked to a guy at Delray Cycle... he told me I might be better off just putting the new gasket in and not messing with anything else as long as the bike is running well (which it is as far as I can tell)... he said to loosen the cam adjustment bolts on the front before i take off the valve cover... and that if the little half moon rubber cam deals were leaking I could wrap the offending ones with teflon tape to hold it for a while rather than buying new ones... does this all sound like good advice? I am hoping it is, because I want to find a good mech around here, and the guy that did the last work doesn't seem too knowledgeable (he broke off one of the bolts holding the brake caliper assembly to the forks, and said I'd have to find a replacement, he didn't have one... )

[xssiveone]

he said to loosen the cam adjustment bolts on the front before i take off

"cam adjustment bolts"?? Are you sure he's talking about YOUR motorcycle? No adjustment bolts for the cams that I know of. And no need to loosen anything except the bolts holding the valve cover in place.

and that if the little half moon rubber cam deals were leaking I could wrap the offending ones with teflon tape to hold it for a while rather than buying new ones... does this all sound like good advice?

Nope. The half moons are readily available and not too expensive. Doesn't make sense to me to have to take it apart later and replace them when you could do it now and forget about it for the next couple of years.

As FXRER (and I'm sure others) have mentioned, a manual is a MUST if you're going to do any repair work. Adjusting the valves is not difficult if you have a manual. The following is a small page I put together to demonstrate how to adjust the valve clearances.
Valve Adjustment

[jazzrat2000]

the term mistake is mine, I think... when I adjusted the cam chain I loosened a nut and bolt at the front of the motor that lets the cam chain adjust itself... I don't remember what it is called at the moment, just that it is important not to tighten it too much... that is what he was talking about...

I have read the pages in the Haynes manual about valve adjustment, and the only problem I forsee is not having the proper shims, and having to wait to get them... are the half-moon deals available at standard yamaha dealers? I don't have a garage, and leaving this thing apart under a cover while I try to find parts doesn't sound like a good idea...

PS I went out and did a minor piece of maintenance on another part of the bike... I started it up, and the oil is pulsing out of the valve cover gasket now... I don't think I should drive it anymore until I get this fixed...

thanks for the link to the valve adjustment page!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dr. Tim,

Keep looking, there are no cam adjustment bolts on the front Perhaps he was talking about the cam chain tensioner adjustment bolt/nuts, but again, that was very bad advice!! You only loosen them ONCE you have the engine in the right position, after turning it several times by wrench at the timing chain cover, and have the timing plate on the proper indicator, which ensures that you have the proper tension in the cam chain on the tension side, and that the side facing the adjuster is relaxed/loose, so that when the adjuster is released, it will spring into position pushing further against the chain taking up the slack, and then you retighten the locking bolt/nut on the adjuster.

Aside from replacing the half moons, a better way than teflon tape is putting a coating of silicone RTV around them.

Your best advice would be to FIRST come here and search or ask about a particular procedure and read the replies before doing the work. Also, get that manual!!
T.C.

[ratbyk]

1/2 Moons

Don't really think that you have to replace those 1/2 moons unless they are physically damaged in some way. Just make sure that they and their mating surfaces are clean and dry. Put a small smear of silicone sealant on all surfaces and reassemble. They will be fine.
Ken/Sooke

[jazzrat2000]

thanks, all. I am feeling more confident... or maybe it is just this beer I am drinking while I watch beach volleyball on TV...

I do have the Haynes manual, and have read it.. (the Clymer one is on the way) sometimes I think there should be one called "XS1100 for Dummies" for those of us who never really tinkered with anything mechanical before this...

the bike is really bleeding oil now, I can see it pulsing out when it is idling... so, probably tomorrow or next weekend I will give this a shot... I am hoping I can come up with the right shims, and not have to leave the thing disassembled... I don't have a garage, only a bike cover... one thing: do I put silicone sealer on the gasket as well as on the half moons? is that stuff heat resistant? (excuse my ignorance, there is a lot more coming!)

[ratbyk]

Gaskets

Ever body does things a little different. As long as your way works for you I don't think it matters much.
For me, I glue the new gasket to the cover with weatherstrip adhesive. That way, if you are careful and gentle you can R/R the cover 2-3 times without buying another gasket. I glue it on then let it sit for a couple of hours so that it really sets up. Just before installing it i (using my finger) run a smear of silicone all around the gasket mating surface on the head. The 1/2 moons were put in place about the same time I glue the gasket to the cam cover. With lots of light, slow movements and care I set the cover back on. Finger start all of the bolts without tightening any down until all are started. Then proceed to torque the cover down. Should be good to go for a couple of years or 15-20.000 kms.
Ken/Sooke

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Doc,

Silicone is what they add to regular rubber to increase it's heat resistance from below 200 degrees to up to 500 degrees, that's why they use it for spark plug wire sets where there's lots of heat in and around engines!

Ignorance is allowed, but STUPIDITY isn't!! You ain't stupid!!
T.C.