Cam nuts & Studs

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  • pathfinder
    XStremely XSive(Deceased)
    • Apr 2004
    • 483
    • Houston, TX

    #1

    Cam nuts & Studs

    You know I should never buy cheap tools. I bought an inch lb torque wrench. Set it to 7.5 to tighten the cam caps and thought I was putting more than 7.5 inch lb's. Felt like about 30 inch lb's to me. Anyway stripped 2 nuts and 2 studs before I thru the damn thing in the trash. Any hint on where to get studs and nuts and the BEST Tool to remove the bad studs? As you may have noticed I'm not having a good day. This entire rebuild has gone real well up to this point. Guess I had to run out of luck sometime.
    There's always a way, figure it out.
    78XS11E
  • newmaac
    XStremely XSive
    • Dec 2002
    • 369
    • San Jose, CA

    #2
    Pathfinder, usually the studs are removed by placing two nuts onto the stud and tightening them to each other. You can then back the stud out of the head by turning the BOTTOM nut counter-clockwise.

    I have a head sitting in my office right now that I just stripped the valves out of, for someone else on the list.
    I can remove some studs for you, if that would help.

    Let me know hoe many you think that you will need.
    You can PM me with an address.
    Mike

    1980 SG "Angus"

    Comment

    • skids
      XS-XJ Super Guru
      • Jul 2002
      • 5046
      • Florissant, CO, USA

      #3
      That usually works, but some are harder to get out than others. If the stud is trashed, you may not be able to get two nuts on it (this is getting kind of "Freudian"). But there might be enough threaded portion left near the top to do this technique. There is a tool called a stud extractor that I haven't ever used. I have removed them with a good visegrip.


      Originally posted by newmaac
      Pathfinder, usually the studs are removed by placing two nuts onto the stud and tightening them to each other.(snip)
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

      Comment

      • Pat Kelly
        XS-XJ Super Guru
        • Jul 2002
        • 3046
        • Golden Valley, AZ

        #4
        I have a stud extractor. It works like a pipe wrench in that it tightens harder on the shaft the harder you pull. Mine is rather large as it is for automotive head studs. I can't see it working on the cam studs. Smaller virg....versions should be available
        Pat Kelly
        <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

        1978 XS1100E (The Force)
        1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
        2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
        1999 Suburban (The Ship)
        1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
        1968 F100 (Valentine)

        "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

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        • Ken Talbot
          XS-XJ Super Guru
          • Jun 2002
          • 4251
          • Revelstoke, BC

          #5
          This might be a good place to weld on a nut if there's not enough threads left for the double-nut trick.
          Ken Talbot

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          • TopCatGr58
            Administrator
            • Jul 2002
            • 12650
            • Portsmouth, Va.

            #6
            Hey Dave/Pathfinder,

            As for the torque wrench, the setting should be 7.2 foot/lbs for the cam nuts. That would translate into 86~87inch lbs!?

            Anyways, I used a standard flex rod gauge type, but smaller in the range, 0-75 ft/lbs, got it from Sears a few years back, about $25.00 or so IIRC.

            Sorry for your bad luck, BTDT with my rebuild, had 2 bent valves found only after torqueing the head bolts and timing the cams! DOH!
            T.C.
            T. C. Gresham
            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
            History shows again and again,
            How nature points out the folly of men!

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