Front Fork Seals

[missinglink]

Thanks to info I got from this site, I Just finishing up reviving my '80G XS11 after 13 years in the garage. Rebuilt the carbs, rebuilt the brake calipers, new MC in front, rebuild rear MC, new SS brake lines all around (thanks Randy, they fit perfectly), just waiting on new tires to arrive. The bike is running great javascript:smilie('')
big grin, I even took it around the block a couple of times (stayed slow - I know, hard to do with the XS but I managed - due to tire condition). Now for the bad news, tonight while I was doing a little detailing I noticed a little seepage from the right fork tube, maybe half a dozen drops of fluid. I have a set of new seals and am wondering how tough a job it is to install the new seals. I gotta take the front wheel off anyway to install the new tire when it arrives but I was wondering if it is possible to change the fork seal without removing the whole fork tube from the bike. Is it possible to change it working from the bottom up? From lurking on this website I know one of you guys out there has done this before. Looking for a shortcut here I guess.

Thanks from the missinglink....

[Pat Kelly]

It's possible but it's much easier to remove eack fork leg and not that much more effort. While you're at it you might regrease the steering head bearings.

[xssiveone]

It's not that difficult to replace the seals. Check here: Fork Seal Replacement for more information. About the most diffult task will be to remove the damper rod. The hex in the damper rod is about (I think)17mm. A threaded rod with a double nut, or an old socket with a nut welded on the bottom like shown on that page will work fine. What a lot of people do is use a wooden dowel, about 5/8" diameter. Taper it slightly at one end and drive it into the damper rod and hold with pliers or vicegrips. Then loosen the allen screw in the bottom. This is best accomplished with an impact gun, but you should be able to break it loose without one.

[missinglink]

Thanks for the replies and info. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it the right way. according to the instructions in the manual that means removing the handle bars, fairing, etc. but, what the hey, its a long time 'til spring......

[Hobbit]

fork tool

I didn't have any luck with the double nut or wooden rod ideas to much Locktite?). So I bought a 17mm allen , cut it off at the bend and held it with a socket and long extension.

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by missinglink
Thanks for the replies and info. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it the right way. according to the instructions in the manual that means removing the handle bars, fairing, etc. but, what the hey, its a long time 'til spring......

To save you a bit of time, if you can get at the pinch bolts, you might not have to take the fairing off. IF you can't get to them, or if the fork tubes won't loosen once you loosen the bolts, then you will probably have to take it off.

It might not be a bad idea to take it off anyways, if for not other reason then to clean any wiring connections hidden behind it. After 20+ years, it's quite common for the connections to be corroded. That and lube or replace the steering neck bearings as was mentioned.

[Czekus21]

it's not difficult at all to change the fork seals. Matter of fact they are probably the easiest seals I've ever changed. Just follow the links on this forum and follow the advise and you'll not go wrong.

[old_bartender]

this might work. go to a hardware shop and get two bolt with the head of 3/4 about 1 inch long and a 2 foot long pipe. weld the bolt too the ends of the pipe and you can reach the inside tube with it. 17 mm is about the same as 3/4 inch. got one and it work great

[missinglink]

Yep, definately gonna do the whole job. It's just too bad I noticed the leak when I did. I had already removed the faring to install the new SS brake lines, re-did all the electrical connections etc. It was only after I had put everything back together and took the bike out for a short "test" ride that I noticed the fork oil on the floor. Oh well, I guess I need the practice removing and reinstalling the fairing, never know when you will need to do that on the road. . Roadside maintenance skills are a must. I once had the rear caliper stick while on a run. After the thing fused itself to the rotor from heat, I was stuck ten miles from nowhere. No way could I get the caliper off the rotor so the wheel would turn. Luckily, a Harley rider stopped (yeah , a Harley rider....go figure) and asked if he could help. I jokingly asked if he had a bigger hammer........He did. .

Thanks for all the help....

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by missinglink
I once had the rear caliper stick while on a run. After the thing fused itself to the rotor from heat, I was stuck ten miles from nowhere. No way could I get the caliper off the rotor so the wheel would turn. Luckily, a Harley rider stopped (yeah , a Harley rider....go figure) and asked if he could help. I jokingly asked if he had a bigger hammer........He did. .

Thanks for all the help....

Don't worry.. his secret is safe with us. Wouldn't want him to get kicked out of the local HOG chapter.

If that happens again with the rear brake, try loosening off the bleeder screw. This is usually caused by the return hole in the master cylinder being plugged.