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How can you tell when the cam chain tensioner is giving you problems?? just wondering

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  • #1

    How can you tell when the cam chain tensioner is giving you problems?? just wondering

    ...I rcv'd several PMs/e-mails asking this when I posted "Busted Cam Chain Tensioner"
    ...to be perfectly honest I did NOT know - I expected a 'defective one' to make more (bad) noise - mine made a little noise that sounds a little like you should check, and reshim, your valves, but what mine did was give a LOT more vibration, and I had a loss of power above 6kRPM. *NOW*, driving in to the shop this morning my SG was *smooth* all the way to 7.5kRPM - THAT is triple digits on the speedo...

    I *hope* one of the XS Gurus jumps in here and enlightens some of us newbies that don't have much of a clue (yet).

    I ***DO*** want to THANK the guys that have given (GREAT) advice, and pointers - I just hope sometime in the future I can contribute and help another newbie from screwing up their XS11 and keeping MORE of them on the road.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    anyway...
    ...the ol' XS/SG has NEVER ran THIS good! the carbs are synced, the cam chain tensioner is set.... NOW I have to WORK! THAT is the trouble with having your own business - you HAVE to put the time in or you don't make a dime!

    ...but AFTER I close up tonight I'm gonna hit the road... and see HOW far I can go... Life just doesn't get much better than THIS!!!
    __________________
    Ron Veil
    <Ron_Veil@yahoo.com>

    1980 XS1100SG
    Tags: None
  • #2
    It is pretty darn hard. I adjust mine every oil change and it does not make a sound. I usually do notice that the engine idles quieter and I have a bit better low end. These are very subjective and possibly just positive thinking.

    The most obvious sign that it is not working is excessive valve lash noise.

    I recommend removing it and checking it out. Make sure it moves freely. Make sure the tension foot is not worn out (deep grove in rubber pad). Be careful not to over tighten the jam bolt and nut. They just need to be snug.

    From that point, you just have to hope it is working.
    DZ
    Vyger, 'F'
    "The Special", 'SF'
    '08 FJR1300

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    • #3
      Cam Tensioner

      The only comment that I could add is that you should periodically check to make sure that you have "travel" left in the tensioner.
      With the jam nut lightly tightened down remove the tensioner assembly from the engine. Holding the tensioner in your left hand, plunger into the palm of your hand, fingers around the mounting ears of the housing. Now loosen the jam nut. If you still have reasonable travel left in the plunger then your chain is not likely streatched to the point that it should be changed.
      Chain mileage seems to vary greatly from bike to bike. If you are not abusing the engine with excessive revs all the time and you keep the chain adjusted properly You can run up a lot of miles before having to worry about changing the cam chain. Rev the be-Jesus out of it and neglect the chain tension and life would likely be in the 25.000 to 35,000 range.
      Ken/Sooke

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      • #4
        Another way to check if there is adjustment left on the cam chain adjuster is to remove the rubber plug in the tensioner housing. Put a caliper (depth measurement) in the hole. If it is 20 mm deep, there is no more adjustment available. A new chain properly adjusted should measure about 14.6 mm deep. The only problem with this method is that you may not get the rubber plug to seal after putting it back in.
        put something smooooth betwen your legs, XS eleven
        79 F (Blueballs)
        79 SF (Redbutt)
        81 LH (organ donor)
        79 XS 650S (gone to MC heaven)
        76 CB 750 (gone to MC heaven)
        rover has spoken

        Comment

        • #5
          One thing that I can add to this is if you do the depth test to see if your at 20mm, and can't get the plug back in, look in you local hardware store for a brass or copper pipe plug of aprox the same outside diameter. but not a solid plug. you want the inside part of the plug hollow and solid on the outside. A little bit of JB Weld ( but not too much ) and let it set up. then file or sand it smooth. I left mine natural looking but you can paint it ( and cam chain tentioner adjuster ) to whatever color suits your fancy. I ,may paint mine come spring.
          S.R.Czekus

          1-Project SG (Ugly Rat Bike)(URB)
          1-big XS patch
          1-small XS/XJ patch
          1-XS/XJ owners pin.
          1-really cool XS/XJ owners sticker on my helmet.
          2-2005 XS rally T-shirts, (Bean Blossom, In)
          1-XVS1300C Yamaha Stryker Custom (Mosquito)
          1-VN900C Kawasaki Custom (Jelly Bean)

          Just do it !!!!!

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          • #6
            If you use a metal plug, you might try this. Warm the housing up (to as hot as you can handle) and put the plug in the freezer. I set the housing on a flat surface (wood) and heat it with my propane tourch. I pull the plug out of the freezer (wearing cloves) and press it in with a light tap. It won't leak or fall out.
            DZ
            Vyger, 'F'
            "The Special", 'SF'
            '08 FJR1300

            Comment

            • #7
              New Plug

              Or you can get a new plug at Yamaha. They're about 2 bucks.
              '79XS1100SF "Little Timmy"
              '66 Thunderbird

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              • #8
                lol well done hollywood ilmho
                Don't put all yer eggs into one basket ,,,case

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