new owner question/ oil light problem

[beechfront]

I am a new motorcyle owner an just bought a
1979 XS1100 SF. I was out riding last night
for a couple hours and towards the end of my
trip the oil light came on for a brief period and
went out again. Oil level is fine. This morning
same thing.

The bike had been sitting for several
years before being purchased by a friend
of mine who sold me the bike because he
was short on cash. I believe the only
maintenance he had done on it was
changing the oil. To my knowledge the
light never came on for him. My two hour
drive last night was probably the longest
that it has been ridden for 10 years.

Any thoughts?

Assuming the engine isn't trashed -- what
other maintenance do I need to perform
before riding this bike too much.

any input is greatly appreciated.

[Jerry]

If you have not already done so, change the oil and filter. Which oil to use is a subject of much discussion, with Castrol, Shell Rotella, Mobile Delvac, and other name brands all getting good recommendations. Try to find out if the PO was using standard or synthetic motor oil, and stay with the same type for this first change. 15W-40 and 20W-50 are rcommended weights for summer riding. Most common filter is a Fram, will have to check number again, seem to recall CH6002? available at most auto parts outlets for $3 - $4.

Some discussion about the arrangement of the components inside the oil filter housing. There is a spring in there, which should be on the bottom (road) side of the filter.

Two other points: the oil switch could be going bad, not likely but possible, or the connection between the switch and wiring is dirty or corroded. I had one where the switchwas dirty and the oil was acting as a conductor, shorting out the switch. Cleaned everything and problem went away.

Electrical problems are nagging headaches for all older Japanese bikes, and our Yamahas are no exception. Clean all the connectors you can, check fuses and holders as well. For best reliability, pack the connectors with dielectric grease (available in small packets from most auto parts stores) which will keep moisture out and prolong the life and reliability of the connectors.

Last note...check oil level while the bike is on its center stand on a flat surface. If you check with the bike on the side stand you will overfill the crankcase.

[Jerry]

As to other maintenance....could get to be a long reply!

Best suggestion is to get the factory service manual and do all the routine maintenance recommended. Will take a couple hours, but it wold be time well spent. Hayes and Clymers published manuals as well, not quite the same as the factory book but easier to get. Hayes is probably the better of the two, but for routine maintenance there isn't much difference.

One particular note on a problem that afflicts bikes that sat for a period of time...brakes. "Spooge" (dirt, crud) that has settled in the bottom of the brake lines, calipers, and master cylinders may cause problems once you start using these systems again. Check you rotors after a ride, if they are 'really' hot your brakes may be dragging. In bad cases the brake caliper pistons will not retract, locking the brakes. (You have to crack open the bleed screw to release the pressure.) This calls for a master cylinder cleaning/rebuild.

Partial fixes here don't work well. If you end up rebuilding either or both master brake cylinders, you may want to consider replacing the original brake lines (about $80 for stainless steel replacments) rebuilding the calipers ($30 - $45 each if new pistons are needed) and installing new brake pads.

Check the Tech Tips section of XS11.com; there are several 'how to' posts on rebulding brake systems.

One upgrade note...if your bike down not have a fork brace (extra between-the-forktubes bracket) above the fender, adding one will improve the handling characteristics of the bike. Price is around $85.00.

[beechfront]

thanks so much for the prompt response -

regarding the oil light - it also doubles as a
brake light. I assume that the brake warning
on a bike refers to an electrical (burned out light)
problem versus a car's light which indicates a
problem with the actual braking system.

is my assumption correct? or could this light
indicate a brake system problem rather than
oil pressure.

also - i am guessing that as with a car if the
oil light comes on first thing to do is shut
'er down? or is it less serious with a bike.


i'm hoping this is nothing too serious. as i
obviously want this bike to be reliable - in a
way i'm somewhat looking forward to a few
problems - i haven't had a vehicle that i can
actually tear into and work on for quite a while.

[Jerry]

I will have to defer on the wiring question...my '82 XJ has separate warning circuits for oil and brake plus one warning light that blinks for either problem. Combination of the warning light and LCD screen indicator shows which circuit is triggering the warning. I don't know the wiring on a '79 well enough to answer your question.

Normally if the oil warning light comes on, you should shut off the engine. However, if you KNOW you have the right amount of oil, and suspect a wiring problem is causing the light to come on, you should be OK to continue on. If you are wrong, though, you will burn out the engine........

Based on previous experience and a couple years of posts, I think your problem is not serious. Again, check the wiring, check the turn light bulbs and connectors, see if you can spot or correct any bad connections or corroded contacts. Troubleshooting wiring can drive you nuts, but that is where many nagging problems will be found.

[xssiveone]

One other thing in addition to what Jerry has mentioned, the switch itself can get plugged with dirt. Not common on a m/c that is ridden regularly but after it sits for a while, oil change and running can disturb something. The switch is located on the top of the engine, about right under #3 carb. Carbs and cylinders are numbered from left when sitting on m/c, 1,2, etc. When you are cleaning the electrical connection on top, it wouldn't hurt to unscrew the switch from the engine and check the bottom of it. There is a small hole in it, flush it out with some spray cleaner or WD40 just in case some dirt is blocking it. Reinstall with sensor safe sealant or plumbers (teflon) tape.

[strom]

OK... first things first....

In a car, NEVER shut off the engine 1st when the oil light goes on... stop the car first. SAFELY!
Why?
Servo brakes... try stepping on a brake a few times with the engine off, and the effect is well known... Not to mention power steering and stuff...

Bikes.. no problem..u can still brake. No power steering.

Bout the oil light... go to an auto shop or sth and have the oil pressure mesured... It's cheaper and faster than taking off the oil pan and visually inspect the oil pump. But if this is the problem and nothing is done, it will get expencive...

Lotsa luck & ride safe!

PS: Don't forget to change the middle and final drive oil... It does not affect the light problem, but it's good to change it once a year...

[Dragonrider]

Don't rule out the switch itself being bad either. I have lost lots of these over the years on various cages and bikes. Probably a dozen or so (I drive lots). They typically (if a guage) read low, and if a light iit turns it on at a high pressure instead of a low one.

[beechfront]

a couple more questions - since everyone is being so helpful (thanks!) i suppose i'll take advantage of it.


i have no manual yet, and am wanting to change the motor oil as well as the the middle and final drive oil before i do too much more driving. I'm not concerned about changing the motor oil but could use some advice on the middle & final drive. more specifically, what kind of oil to use here, how much, anything i should look out for? what about that zirk on the rear axle?

i've been driving my bike much more than i am comfortable with not knowing the last time some of these parts have been serviced.


on a side... took my bike out on the highway last night for the first time. i have a feeling i'm going to be putting a lot less miles on my car in the near future. maybe i'll post some pictures of it here sometime - i'm really surprised at the condition it's in for as old as it is and for no more than i paid for it ($500). from the looks of it, it was very well taken care of (hopefully). i plan on keeping it that way.

[Jerry]

Yamaha has a doubl-ended dip stick for the XS-XJ, one end for the middle drive, other for the final drive. Should be in your tool kit, if not, they can be purchased through a dealer for $4 - $5 or the diagrams to make your own are on the XS11.com web page under Tips or Maintenance. If you need the part number let me know; I have it around somewhere......

Use 80W- 90 gear lube, either standard or synthetic in both drives.

Zerk is to lubricate drive shaft splines. A couple pumps of the grease gun handle will do it. General purpose grease is OK, I happen to use a white lithium grease because I have a gun loaded with it. White lithium is supposed to 'stick' better, handle higher pressure loads, and be less affected by heat.

Grease from zerk doesn't do a lot, though, since splines are inside the outer shaft. Best way to lubricate them is to take off tire, remove rear end of drive shaft, lub the splines, and put everything back together.

Plan on spending around $700.00 in maintenance/upgrades for an older bike in the first year or two. Tires, battery, air filters, perhaps control cables, changing fluids, brake work, fork brace....it all adds up!

[beechfront]

thanks for all the help...

got myself a manual now so shouldn't
have so many questions now.