what kind of clutch is this?

[beechfront]

i had been having trouble with the clutch sticking on my newly acquired XS.

so i was just gonna try replacing the clutch plates with some xtras i had sitting around.

the clutch that is in there is sortof gold in color, and there are 9 thinner plates instead of 8.


so now i'm thinking.... all along i have been trying to adjust the clutch according to factory specs. but with a different clutch in there would this make a difference?

anyone know what clutch i might have?

[skids]

I have a clutch set "for an xs11" thatI bought from ebay. It is sitting on the shelf because, although "new", the plates are near the lower spec for thickness according to Clymers. This set has 8 friction plates and I believe it is Barnett. I think they have other sets (presumably later released for sale) that include 9 friction plates -- probably to account for the thinness of the plates. Of course, you would need another pressure plate as well. Does this sound like your situation?

[beechfront]

yeah... i was thinking maybe it is some kind of high performance clutch???? i only think that because there's 9 plates.... hence more surface area. i don't know though. i suspect this might have something to do with my sticking clutch problem. i'd like to just go back to factory. i'm not going to be pushing it that hard.

[chevy45412001]

clutch adj

7-8 or 9 plates doesn't matter. You still would adjust the clutch the same.I am currently running an extra steel plate in my clutch.I was having problems with a slipping clutch. If it was do to wear or what haveyou i do not know.I read all the fixes,and that one sounded the best for me.I put it in and have been going good for about 2 years now. Just remember the clutch adjust is done behind the right side plate were cable goes into engine. If you do not start there you are doing it wrong,and anything you do will not work.The adjust at handle bar is just to take slack out of the cable.

[beechfront]

well then i don't know what else to try. i adjusted it per instructions in the book (1/8" turn out, right?) just as i did with my other motorcycle. maybe i need to invest in a set of steel plates (already have the clutchplates) and get it back to factory.

i did notice, on many of these steel plates that the gold color is wearing off.

[chevy45412001]

adjust

heres how i do it (iirc ) First loosen the cable all the way at the handle bar. Next, remove two screws that hold on the inspection cover over the clutch housing. Now loosen the lock nut (12mm) i think, turn the set screw counterclock wise (this gives you a fresh start) Now turn set screw in untill you feel slight resestance (this takes a deft hand as the screw always feels like risistance is there) then you turn the same screw out about between 1/4 and 1/8 inch. While holding the screw with screwdriver tighten lock nut. Now go to the bar and take out the slack. leave off the cover and test drive. If it's not right try again, it does require the FEEL to do properly. Now if you have worn or broken parts this might not help ya.

[stevec5000]

I've not been able to get the clutch to stop sticking and I've tried 3 different complete clutch assemblies. After being cleaned up they work fine dry but when oil gets on the plates they stick like glue and don't want to release. The oil sticks them so well that if I take the clutch apart I still can't pull them straight apart by hand. I tried Barnett steel plates and aluminum plates once but that made it worse and I couldn't get it to release at all to shift gears. I found that drilling all the steel plates, like a brake disc, made it release easier and shifts pretty well but still can't put the engine into gear if I'm stopped with the engine running.
Since replacing the clutch parts didn't help I must need some sort of non-stick oil. Maybe there's an additive that can be used to make the oil more slippery or less glue-like? Sounds silly I know but what else is there to try?

[fusionking]

Yer makin' that up right?

[Dennyz]

I had the sticking clutch problem on my "F". Replacing the clutch basket and clutch plates fixed the problem. I believe the sticking was caused by the plates wearing groves in the clutch basket fingers. And, the clutch basket fingers, wearing notches in the clutch plates. These notchs and groves prevent the plates from moving freely. My Dad ran into the same problem on his XS. He took a file to the plates and basket to remove the notches and groves. His clutch stopped sticking.

[stevec5000]

Nope, not making it up at all! I've tried all different kinds of oil and it all sticks like glue. All the clutch parts are in perfect condition, no grooves or any signs of wear. I even checked the bearing clearances with a micrometer. Like I said, it works perfectly dry but sticks when oil gets on it. Too bad it's inside the crankcase with the gears. If it could be converted to a dry clutch it could probably be made to work properly but for now I have to put it in gear before starting the engine since it won't go in after the engine is running.

[skids]

If you can run the thing in gear and stop with the clutch pulled, try "wearing-in" the plates by feathering the handle to the friction point and let them rrub against each other.

Originally posted by stevec5000
Nope, not making it up at all!

[stevec5000]

It's not a matter of wearing them in since they are used already and I have to slip the clutch a lot when I take off in 2nd because the P.O. broke first trying to jam it into gear.
I wonder if the plates are too smooth due to being previously used? If they were originally somewhat rough and now are smooth and shiny would make them stick more solidly when oil is applied?

[skids]

No, that would not make them stick more. Try adjusting the plates by NOT backing off the screw. Turn it clockwise until you feel the resistance and just lock it down right there. If it slips while accelerating, usually in a higher gear while throttling hard, this will obviously not work... There was some mention about Barnett plates not being manufactured flat...I can not verify that. Anyway, try the adjustment thing and if that does not work, I would try Denny's repair recommendation (the adjustment is just easier for a first effort).

Originally posted by stevec5000
It's not a matter of wearing them in since they are used already and I have to slip the clutch a lot when I take off in 2nd because the P.O. broke first trying to jam it into gear.
I wonder if the plates are too smooth due to being previously used? If they were originally somewhat rough and now are smooth and shiny would make them stick more solidly when oil is applied?

[fusionking]

Well keep us posted ....but if you cure it with oil then the starter will slip!!!

[Dennyz]

FYI: Like most wet clutches (auto trannies and bikes), the fibers need to be completely saturated with fluid before assembly. If not, they may stick. I like to soak them for at least 8 hours.