Removing Screws etc.

[dabien310]

Hey Guys,

I've worked on my carbs for my 01 vstar but the carbs on 79 xs 1100 special is killing me. I tried to undo a few screws on it.... (including the choke lever screws) but I have not had any success. I've shot it with carb cleaner and wd40... but when I try and lossen them... they start striping. I have destoryed any of them... but I'm about to if I try any harder. I even tap them a bit with a hammer to set them.

I'm wondering what you guys have done to remove the carb screws or any rusted screws in general. There must be an easier way! I'm just worried that I'll demolish the screws and never get them out unless I send them to a shop to do it, which I don't want to do.

Jon

[John]

If the carbs are off the bike, AND you have the fuel drained from them, then you can, if all else fails, fill the float bowls with water, as well as flushing the carbs out with water, and use a propane torch to heat the area around the screws, The aluminum will heat up faster than the steel screws, and should come out then. You may have to cut new slots along the top of the screw heads if you have buggered them up. Be careful not to get them so hot that it will damage the rubber diaphrams.

[skids]

Its the Loc-tite.

[Ken Talbot]

You'll want to use an impact driver to loosen those screws. They don't cost a lot, and they should be considered standard issue when dealing with #$%@ phillips head screws. Use the search tab at the top of the page to look for impact driver and you should come up with a link with a photo.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jon,

I've seen it suggested before, and I've used it also, called PB Blaster, great penetrating fluid, spray it around the screws, top and bottom if you can get access to the other side, and also using a good fitting screwdriver and hammer, tapping the screwdriver into the head of the screw, the tapping also helps the fluid to penetrate better! I then used a pair of viselock pliers to get a good grip on those screws both on top of the carbs...the diaphragm covers, and the bottom screws, the float bowls!

Then with the carbs in a vise/holder, put a wrench on the shaft of the phillips screwdriver, was able to put my whole chest pressure against the screwdriver and used the wrench to pop them loose! If they started to strip, then I used the viselocks! I then just replaced any of the screws that got bunged up from the local hardware store. I went back with phillips, but you can find hex allen slotted metric ones to match easily! Good Luck!
T.C.

[John]

Just don't get all gorilla with the hammer and impact driver. I was doing that when the body of the carb broke away where the screw was threaded in. Luckily, some JB Weld cured that problem. T.C., I use PB'laster all the time at work. Good stuff. That and WD 40 are the two penetrants that AA will buy for us.
One small bit of advice...replace all of the screws in the carbs with small allen heads. They are much easier to remove with a hexdriver (Allen wrench) than a screw is with a screwdriver

[dabien310]

I think I'm gonna try the impact driver and the PB Blaster. THen ifthat don't work... I'll heat up the carbs. Makes me nervous...


BTW, I have a set of carbs off an '80 XS1100 special... would that be compatible with my '79? Would I need to make any mods to it?

JOn

[dabien310]

Impact driver... you mean something like these?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gmm.0&MID=9876

Is that right?

[prometheus578]

Found the greatest stuff from the MAC tool guy. Is a bottle of small particles of carbide suspended in some sort o' fluid. I was always stripping the screws on carbs and front master cylinders. Put a small drop o' dis stuff on the tip o' your phillips screwstick, and have at it. The carbide bites into the screwstick and the screw. Won't slip. I have never stripped a screw since! Of course, it was only after I shelled out my $10 that he told me I could get the same effect using coarse valve grinding compound. Doh ! Also, not all screwstick tips are the same. A #2 phillips from Craftsman does not fit as well as a #2 from MAC Tools. (Just cut differently) Mac Tool's #2 =$14, but well worth it.

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by dabien310
Impact driver... you mean something like these?

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gmm.0&MID=9876

Is that right?

That link didn't take me to the driver, but if it looks like this one from Harbour Freight it's the right one.

As John mentioned, you might need to put a brace under the body of the carb to prevent breaking the corner of it off.

[nashville_bill]

Impact drivers are good, but as T.C. said, use vice-grip pliers to twist the screws. It's the best way to loosen a stuck screw and then replace the screws. It will only cost a couple of bucks and it's well worth it. While you at the hardware store, buy allen head screws to replace the ones in the hose clamps of all eight of the boots. With those allen heads and T-handle allen wrenches, I can remove and re-install the carbs in about half an hour, with the stock air box.

[dabien310]

I got these vise grips, but they seem to be pretty crappy. Should I buy the needle nose type or the short stubby ones?

Originally posted by nashville_bill
Impact drivers are good, but as T.C. said, use vice-grip pliers to twist the screws. It's the best way to loosen a stuck screw and then replace the screws. It will only cost a couple of bucks and it's well worth it. While you at the hardware store, buy allen head screws to replace the ones in the hose clamps of all eight of the boots. With those allen heads and T-handle allen wrenches, I can remove and re-install the carbs in about half an hour, with the stock air box.

[dabien310]

WHere can you find that "coarse valve grinding compound or something comparable? Home depot? Lowe's? Autobarn? Pep boys?

Originally posted by prometheus578
Found the greatest stuff from the MAC tool guy. Is a bottle of small particles of carbide suspended in some sort o' fluid. I was always stripping the screws on carbs and front master cylinders. Put a small drop o' dis stuff on the tip o' your phillips screwstick, and have at it. The carbide bites into the screwstick and the screw. Won't slip. I have never stripped a screw since! Of course, it was only after I shelled out my $10 that he told me I could get the same effect using coarse valve grinding compound. Doh ! Also, not all screwstick tips are the same. A #2 phillips from Craftsman does not fit as well as a #2 from MAC Tools. (Just cut differently) Mac Tool's #2 =$14, but well worth it.

[John]

Most any auto parts store will have valve grinding/lapping compound. Get new, small, needle nose vise grips. They will have sharp teeth and will grip the screwhead better. There isn't much room to turn a vise grip, but all you need is to get it started.

[dabien310]

Just an update. Didn't get the grinding compund yet... but I picked up a impact driver and this thing is awesome! Can't imagine trying to get all those screws out without it. THe screws I fugged up, I used the vise grips and they worked just like you guys said. I'm on my way!

Jon