Thinking about getting XS11S that doesn't Run

[dabien310]

Hey All,

This is my first post on this forum. I currently have a vstar 650 and have decided to get an old school bike to chop. I have decent experience wrenching my bike but am a bit wary about such a daunting project.

I found a 1979 Special for $450. Is that a good price on it? The owner says it doesn't start but he had it start up in the summer time but didn't idle. The electrical is good and it has a 4 into 1 exhaust. He also has a donor bike that is shot, but can be used for parts. He's going to give me both bikes.

I read the thread about what to look for in an XS1100 and the problems that are common. But is there any way of telling if the bike will be restorable? What are the major warning signs to a dead bike? I just don't want to have to hunks of junk in my basement after i realized I just got jerked.

I thank you in advance for the feedback!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Dabien,

That price sounds right, especially for a parts bike as a kicker!! The biggest thing you can do is a compression test to ensure that ALL 4 cylinders are close(+/- 10% of each other), and hopefully a bit above 110psi ! Since the bike won't run, probably due more to dirty gummed up carbs, but also possibly from weak battery, you could jump it with a car battery....car engine OFF, if you wanted to try to get a good WARM comp. reading, but cold would be better than NONE.

Also, getting it to run would help you realize that the CDI ignition box is working!! All other stuff is gravy, and can usually be fixed with good cleaning!!!!

The 2nd or 1st gear problem is another modest major concern, but is also fixable without really MAJOR surgery....NO SPLITTING THE CASES required!!!

You'll still need to put a few hundred $$ or more into it to get it properly road worthy, especially the tires, battery, fluids, brake pads?, etc.!!!

And, then once you get it fixed, HOLD ON TO YOUR HAT, cause it's going to kick you in the pants compared to your V-star 650!!!!

You'll wonder why you ever bought that "little" V machine!!!!! :P

[Dennyz]

If it where me, I would do it. But, I have the disease. It has been my experience that these bikes are very hard to kill. They can be brought back from condition that would finish off any other type. I am not a fan of parting out for profit, but we do what we have to. There has to be more then $450 worth of parts in those two bikes, if it is going to cost you too much to restore one of them. Think of it as two XS give there all, so that other XS may live and ride.

[brock]

That price sounds right to me, too, assuming the first bike looks to be in generally good shape. You'll definately want to look for things like compression, and the general condition of the engine, tranny, and carbs. Make sure everything is there that should be.

My experience with fixing this bike is that it is well worth the time you spend. And this forum makes your job that much easier. You'll wonder what you were ever doing on that little V machine.

[dabien310]

Well Guys.... I'm now a proud new owner of a 1979 XS1100 Special. The seller brought it over in his pick up and I got it for $400. The extra $50 will be when he brings the parts bike with him.

So here is the status of it. Lights work. Starter works. Engine turns over but does not fire up all the way. THe clutch knob is broken, so that may be why (It was 40 degrees) it didn't start. Brakes are working, but not safe to ride with. Other than that...
just a lot of rust.

The seller told me that this was a great forum and said that there was a CD-Rom or something available regarding mods etc. Also, anyone have any links to a good site on how to clean carbs properly?

Also, I'm having some problems with seeing the thread title on my home computer. It just comes up blank.... anyone know a solution??

Thanks all for the help and input!

Jon

[Dennyz]

dabien310,

If you give us a hint as to your location, there may be other XS'ers that will help with your project.

[dabien310]

I live in Queens, NY. I guess I'll have to fill out my profile.

I have some experience wrenching my vstar... I've explored most parts except for the tranny and the engine.

I have the clymer's manual and there are a lot of similarities with the bikes.

All help and feedback is great. I can't wait to wake up this monster!

Jon

[xssiveone]

Contact Rob Mills for the CD. He makes them, charges a very nominal fee for them, and any profit goes to his local animal shelter.

As to the carbs, not much to them really. The manual you have has a breakdown of them for you to follow. To properly clean them, you have to remove EVERY jet that isn't threaded in, and also be sure to remove the idle mixture screw. Yes, the one that the manual will tell you not to touch. Not sure about the '79, but there may be a metal plug covering the screw. Make a hole, small drill, nail, etc, and then screw a sheet metal screw into it and pull it out. If there's no cover, no worries. The float bowl screws and diaphram cover screws will probably cause you some grief. I got mine loose using a hand-held impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer. Several have replaced these with stainless cap screws. DO NOT soak the carbs in carb cleaner, unless you take the throttle butterflies out. There are rubber seals at either end of the throttle shaft that will be destroyed. Spray carb cleaner, followed by compressed air, works well. I've used pipe cleaners to clean out some passageways. Careful not to scratch the inside of the jets.

[dabien310]

THanks for the carb tips. I hate those screws on the carbs. That are a PITA. I will try to remove them carefully.

You think it's neccessary to remove the idle mixture screws? Once taken out, what should I set them to?

[chevy45412001]

read

read up as much as possible on this site. scroll down and go through the modifications section, rebuild etc. You get the point. there is a wealth of knowledge on this site.Also use the search feature to your left.that will take you to previous posts on a lot of subjects. Then ask, we all try to help as we can.

[dabien310]

BTW... How do you test for compression? What tools do you need and what does it entail?

Jon

[dragxs11]

Hey Jon, and Welcome!
After you get a guage and the proper adapter to thread into the spark plug hole, you just crank it over with the throttle wide open. Your pressure should be around 126 I think, right guys? Wish I had a manual here in front of me, but I'm pretty sure thats close.
She probably doesn't idle well cause the pilot jets in the carbs are clogged..... but I'm sure you'll learn all about that soon enough.

[John]

The book calls for 142 psi on the compression test. 120's are a little on the weak side, but will still run ok.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again Jon,

Congrats on your acquisition!!! As for the tech tips, after clicking on the FORUM link, Then Scroll down the page, you'll find the forums for maintainance, repairs, mods, etc., read as many as you can !!

Like Drag said, you hold the throttle wide open, and you should have already screwed the compression tester into the spark plug hole, then you turn the engine over watching the gauge, and after several cranks, you should see that the gauge isn't going up in value anymore, stop and take that reading, then move on to the next cylinder. BTW, remove all the other plugs before hand, makes the engine turn over easier!

After getting all 4 cylinders, if values are low or very uneven, more than 10% difference from each other, then squirt a little oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug hole, turn it over a few times to get the oil spread around the rings. Then repeat your measurements!

If the readings rise a fair amount, then this shows that the rings are fairly worn. If the values are low and don't rise much, then it can indicate both worn rings and/or valves that aren't sealing well. However, if the bike has sat for a while, you can sometimes have some mild rust in the cylinders that will get worn off after the bike has been run for a while and the rings have reseated. Then you can retest later and you may get a nice surprise!?

Good luck with your restore/resurrection!

[xssiveone]

To properly clean them, you have to remove EVERY jet that isn't threaded in

Oooops... make that "EVERY jet that IS threaded in" Guess I have to spend a bit more time proof reading
things. There are a couple at the back that are pressed in... don't remove these. For the ones that are threaded in, get a screwdriver that fits the slot as close as possible. Too small and you risk tearing out the slot. Remember, brass is very soft. I fabricated a couple of bits by grinding them to fit. Be sure to remove the main nozzle as well as there are tiny holes in the side that have to be clean.

Originally posted by dabien310

You think it's neccessary to remove the idle mixture screws? Once taken out, what should I set them to?

Yes, it's the only way to ensure that the small passageway underneath is clean. Can't recall the setting, and I don't have my manual handy but I'm sure someone will chime in and let you know. I "think" it's 2 turns from fully seated, but not sure. You could gently turn them in until fully seated, counting the turns. Be VERY careful when turning them in all the way as the tips have been known to break off if you over tighten them.