7 Questions - Recommendations Please

[mixelpix]

Hi, I just bought my first1979 XS1100 Special and have a couple of questions:

1) Oil Filters: Emgo? Fram? Any particular manufacturers you recommend or would avoid? After perusing the maintenace forum, I plan on going with Mobil1 15w50. I had been thinking of Redline synthetic - anyone else using it?

2) Brakes: Any recommendations on where to buy the correct pads for a special, again, manufacturers to avoid or to look for? While riding the bike from Oregon to California I noticed that when I engaged the rear brake the entire bike would bounce. Improperly installed pads or rotor?

3) I found a dead spot on the throttle - between 4 & 5/8ths. I plan on taking apart the carbs and cleaning/balancing/synching them this winter, replacing hoses and adding in-line filters... Just wondering which jets/needles I could should be looking at which might cause problems in this range. I was cruising comfortably at appx 1/4 throttle and every time I'd open her up to about 3/4th, the bike would perk up nicely, however, when I slowly released the throttle to around 5/8ths the power would drop for a moment. Maybe a tear in one of the diaphragms?

4) There is a leak coming out of the cam chain tensioner. I am assuming it is a tired and brittle gasket. Any reason not to just cut a new one myself, or should I buy one new?

5) The fuse box has been replaced and is fitted with all 30 amp fuses. This seems wrong to me. Does anyone know what the proper fuse amperage is - I am assuming (like my '79xs400) there is a main, ignition, lights and ... well I forget what the last one is off the top of my head, but the amps are 20 for the main and 10 for the other three on my 400. Also, what is the lone fuse below and to the left of the box for? Sorry, I am still waiting on a Clymer's to arrive in the mail...

6) Where can I order/buy Yamalube, Yamabond and or Yama Carb cleaner? I had good luck simply boiling the carbs off my xs400 in water, but I am curious to see what the yamaha carb cleaner does.

7) I have never received any mechanical training or mentoring and am making this up as I go along. Except for my '79xs400 (which I have blown up - on a ride from Oakland to Palm Springs - torn apart and completely rebuilt except for the tranny and boring new cylinders) the only other engine I have ever worked on was a 1969 galaxie 500 392 V-8. The engine compression on the 1100 is 150psi across the board. I just wanted to make sure I was testing correctly: I like to use the kickstarter instead of the starter motor so I don't need to worry about grounding the ignition. I also prefer to test a cold engine as the readings will be lower. Mostly I was worried about the condition of the piston rings. I got a pretty good deal on this bike - it is a major hard bagger w/fairing and cycle sound - and the cynic in me was worried it was too good to be true. So far so good. I have a valve tool also coming in the mail and I can adjust those myself if need be. Anyways, with the throttle wide open I give ten cranks on the kicker, check the psi, release and test a second time to confirm the results. Since the compression was in the proper range, I didn't bother pouring any oil in the cylinder to see if the readings changed. Just wondering if I am doing anything wrong or missing any important steps?

Thanks! I'll have more questions soon.

-Patrick Kennedy

p.s. I have been learning a lot from Dan:
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm
Any other resources would be appreciated!

[randy]

Welcome to XS heaven, Patrick.

1) Fram. Never tried any other. Don't use synthetic oil, clutch will slip. Use any quality oil ( I use Castrol )

2) Parts n More has good prices on brakes. Your bouncing bike sounds like a warped rotor.

3) Sticking diaphram would be my guess. The cleaning should clear that up.

4) You can cut a gasket for the tensioner yourself, There is no pressure at the seal, so not critical. I use silicone gasket maker.

5) Clymer's will sort out the fuse issue for you. The one on the lower left is for accessories. Do a search here for fuse and consider replacing the fuse box, a very weak point on XS's.

6) The Yama- products are available at your friendly yamaha dealer. Avoid the Un-friendly yamaha dealers!

7) Equal compression is more important than high compression. Your readings sound good, But do a test warm if you REALLY want to know what the compression is.

Hope this helps,

Randy

[mixelpix]

thanks Randy! Yeah, I am loving this website!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Patrick,

Yeah, this site is great!!

Dead spot could be carbs, but you don't want to dismiss other possibilities. On carbs, check for pinholes in diaphragms. But also check your centrifugal and vacuum advance plate, for ease of movement. Folks reported erratic accel behavior and was fixed with good cleaning and re-lubing of plates and advance parts!

Cam chain tensioner is probably leaking NOT where it mounts to the engine, but from the rubber plug at the end, you can get replacement, or just clean up with carb cleaner, dry, and then put a big glob of RTV all over the end, allow to cure 24 hours, should seal it right up! Do a search for it for other ideas on repairs!

Fuses are as follows, from left to right looking at fuse holder, 1st is Main=30A; Headlight=10A; Turn signals=20A, Ignition=10A. and Aux=10A. Check out the fuse box replacement tip in the tech tips, you'll be happy you did!! You said it was replaced, but with what style, glass cylinders or solid plate type, you'll want to switch to solid!!

You didn't say how many miles on the bike, but with those compressions, it can't be too many, per manual at sea level, stock is 142 +/-14 psi, so you're doing great!

Aside from survival mechanics training from neighbor, and 1 shop class, then experience rebuilding my old Pontiac V-8 350, and a few auto carbs, I, too, had very little experience working on a bike engine. I've since rebuilt my topend, repaired my tranny, etc!! You've got the "Stuff" for it no doubt!

Read all the tech tips you can find, by scrolling down the MAIN forum page, and checking them out there, NOT just from the menu on the sidebar!!! Pay special attention to the cam chain tension adjustment technique!

Many local auto stores carry the filters, Stp makes one as well, and you get both O-rings in the package! The type isn't as important as changing it every 3k or so! Air cooled engines are rougher on oil! Watch out for the washer, it likes to stick to the bottom of the filter!!

**Along with the engine oil, you'll want to change the Middle gear and Final Drive gear Hypoid oil as well, an the front fork oil also!!! In the tips, Links, you'll find one for a PDF of an Owner's Manual, its for the 81H/SH series, but most of the mechanical stuff will apply to your 79SF as well, you can D/L, about 6MB, complete with pictures!!

Write back with more questions if you got any!?!? WELCOME!

[sixtysix]

1. I used Fram and NAPA, if then was now I would get a TC oil filter adapter. DO NOT USE synthetic oil, if you feel bad about this, use Castrol semi-sythetic like I did.

2. Bad rotor, all pads are good.

3. any number of problems could cause this...too early to speculate, clean the carbs and fix issues and see if you still think it is carbs.

4. Check the tech tips.....for this, you can make your own if it is the rear one.

5. Check the tech tips for fuse block mods...I wrote the tip all fuse sizes are visable (I think)

6. Zanotti Motors (do a site search) is the cheapest.

7. Not correct procedure per the book but if you have 150psi across all 4 your engine is in fine shape

8. Enjoy!

[mixelpix]

thanks everyone. what a great community!

After coming down from Oregon, the bike has just under 26,000.

I have a lot of great tips to use this weekend.

Thanks Again,
-Patrick Kennedy

[gaffer77]

hi patrick like that guy said www.partsnmore.com sell all the pads for $37.00 i think be carefull tho as the sf has 3 different size pads i believe so ge them from someone who knows what they are on about like partsnmore

[dragxs11]

Pulsing brakes can also be a result of glazed pads. If your pads are good, try a little 150 sand paper to ruff them up. This happened on my front brakes, I think it's worth a try before you buy another rotor.
Yes, do browse through partsnmore.com's website. They also offer an original style fusebox if yours is too much of a hack-job.

[mixelpix]

thanks for the suggestion about the rotors. turns out the rotor from my '79xs400 (I have *a lot* of spare parts...) is the same part #... Isn't mass production great?