Dead engine?

[willymanqb]

I have a 79 XS1100 Standard. Due to the shape of the bike and amount of time it spent out in the rain, uncovered, it's pretty much an entire rebuild. But, it was free, so...
Anyway, I bought a Clymer manual and have begun on chapter 4 (Engine). I want to make sure that it will run before I spend too much cash on it. I've tried turning the engine with some jumper cables. But, the engine won't budge. The starter has been tested and turns quite strong. So, I have decided to follow the steps laid out in the manual, but I've already run into some problems.
The cam cover is off as well as the ignition cover. I am at the part where it says to rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it reaches the "t" (page 62, if anybody has the manual). However, when I turn the nut with the 19mm wrench, the wrench just strips out. I've tried pliers and visegrips as well. Not one will turn the crankshaft even a little.
I want to believe that the cylinders and pistons just have a little rust on them. In that case, I could probably just replace the pistons and clean out the cylinders. I don't want to know that my engine is shot.

1. Is there any way to get to my pistons without going through
the "cam removal" procedure?

2. Does this engine sound like it has any hope of revival?

3. Are there any other ways to turn the crankshaft without using
the nut?

I would greatly apprecaite any response as I am in need of counsel. Thank you.

[Dragonrider]

Sounds locked up to me....you could pull the plugs and squirt some penetrating oil in for a couple days...see if that will free it up...but it sounds like a candidate for a rebuild to me.

Good luck!

[CRXSi90]

Keep in mind its never good to listen to me...

Why not just take all the spark plugs out, and look in the holes...I'd probably pour some Marvel Mystery Oil or some penetrating oil or maybe even ATF in each hole, let it sit, then come back w/ the wrench, or stick something down the hole (wooden, metal if you're in a bind), let it rest on the piston, and hit it with a hammer, see if it breaks loose.

We have a 1986 GMC Jimmy that was overheated and seized not long after new, and the shop poured some oil in and let it set for a few days, and cranked it over w/ a wrench, I think. The vehicle is still opperational today (with the same engine: 197,000 miles, I think)

Remember the very first thing I said, and good luck!

[pgg]

No easy ways Willy.

[sixtysix]

I had one that was locked up...pull all the plugs, the one with rust on it is the cylinder that is locked up. Now go get some Kroil or some other penetrating oil and let it sit for a few days. Engine should turn over now.

Down side is that once a cylinder is rusted this bad it will never be perfect again...but it should run OK, depending on condition...at least for a while.

Good Luck and read my tech tip What to look for in a neglected XS

[ratbyk]

Seized Engine

With all plugs out. After being well soaked with penetrating oil (diesel fuel works well for this as well) for a few days don't use the starter. Put in 4 or 5 gear. Try rocking back and forth to break loose. If tank is off, cover plug holes with a shop rag. If you don't when it breaks loose it will spray your penetrating oil all over the place. Get a couple of buddies to get behind to push while sit on the bike to put some weight on the rear tire to reduce skidding.
If this does not break the engine loose let it sit for a few more days and try again.
If it still doesn't break loose then it is time to turn it into a parts bike.
Ken/Sooke

[MartyA]

willyman, turning that 19mm nut is the way to turn the engine, other than ratbyk's rocking method.

What came out when you removed the oil drain plug? If it was more water and rust, the crank might be siezed also.

The pistons are aluminum, but the rings are steel, as is the cylinder sleeve I think. You *could* tear it down to the pistons and hone the cylinders to repair them, but it is nearly impossible to find standard rings and the 1-over and 2-over rings, so you would have to go to a Wisco big bore kit.

But removing the head and camshafts is not a big deal. I did it and it went back together fine. I use the Clymer's manual.

Did you examine the frame? I know of a 78 standard that has been sitting out for 10 years, the left down tube is rusted through in a spot, so it would be unsafe to ride that even if someone put lots of time in the motor and carbs.

[Bubba1954]

After you soak your cylinders in oil to free it up, pull out your kick starter lever from under the air filter box and mount it to turn the engine over. The 78's and 79's still came with a kick start lever. The 80's and newer don't. It's bolted to the bottom of the air cleaner box held on by a wing nut.

[Geezer]

I've freed up a lot of engines by filling the cylinders with ATF and then heating the engine with a couple propane torchs. Be sure and take plenty of fire precausions. Remove the tank and carbs first and dry everything.

I've done this dozens of times with great sucess. I find that warming the parts lets the oil into the places it wouldn't go otherwise.

Geezer