clutch test next question

[xj11DAN]

This looks like a good place for this one.... I have xj11oo just put in brand new Barnett fibers, HD springs, new cable and all the steel liners are clean and flat, put it all together and adjusted, the clutch main bolt is adjusted to 7 lbs per the spec but I can not get the clutch to engage.

Any ideas???

[John]

The clutch main bolt is torqued to 51 ft lbs. Don't forget to bend the side of the lock washer over so that it contacts the nut. The spring washer goes on the shaft before the lock washer. Don't overlook that. The 6 bolts that compress the clutch springs are 7.5 ft lbs. Next, check the adjustment of the clutch throughout bearing at the clutch cover. The proper adjustment is: loosen the jam nut on the phillips head screw. Turn the screw in until it just touches the clutch assy. You will be able to feel this. Then, back out the screw 1/8 turn. Hold the screw steady, and tighten the jam nut. That is the correct method of clutch adjustmet. The adjustment on the lever is just to take up the slack in the cable, and to let the rider adjust the point where the clutch engages.

[uk1.1s]

Main Bolt..

Dan -

John's advice is correct for the "Main Bolt" inside the clutch housing...but I get a funny feeling your "main bolt" isn't the same one he's advising on.

Be careful torquing up as recommended until you are sure that you are talking about the same part.

Just a thought as I had an image of much thread stripping / bolt shearing and swearing

Correct adjustment of the small screw and locknut behind the centre cover of the clutch cover (if you see what I mean) is to slowly screw in until you meet resistance (the end of the bolt starts to operate the clutch) and then back of around 1/4 turn and lock up with the lock nut. You probably know all this - but if not it may help

[xj11DAN]

How far down do you take the spring placte bolts? do you start them and go down until the plate is flush and then set the torque to 7.5 or do you take them down all the way and then set the torque to 7.5, i took them all the way down and then set the torque, i do not think that this allowed the clutch any room to engage.

[chevy45412001]

Dan

If your talking star plate,thing in center that holds springs in place.I go finger tight in a criss cross patteren (like you would changing a car tire) then i go with the socet in incriments till tourqed.After you have the big clutch cover on and torqued,the smaller cover that has the two screws is were the adjustment comes in.That one like stated above loosen lock NUT turn out the set screw (counter clock wise) a few turns. Next tighten in just till you feel LIGHT PREASURE ,THEN BACK OFF 1/8-1/4 TURN. HOLD ON TO THE SET SCREW (so it does not turn) THEN TIGHTEN UP THE LOCK NUT. Now you can adjust slop out of clutch cable at the handle bar end. You should be good to go now.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again XJDan,

What you did is what I have done, turned the 6 star plate bolts in until they are flush, have pulled the #2 pressure plate and those 6 shafts up into the starplate so that you can't turn the bolts by hand(not using a wrench),and then torque to 7 lbs, so I'm pretty sure you got it right, and you didn't catch those lips on the starplate or you would be asking for a replacement, since they break off very easily!!!!

The clutch, pressure plates are squeezing all together very tightly, that's what provides the grip to transfer the engine power to the tranny! It's your throwout bearing the pushed in on the middle section and spreads the pressure plates and all the friction plates apart, allowing them to slip/slide past each other.

So...if you are not able to release(squeeze the clutch lever) and cause the clutch to disengage to allow you to shift gears, or sit stopped, in gear, then your adjustment as has been previously mentioned, is not set right, either/both at the engine cover, as well as the handlebar!

[xj11DAN]

well I discovered the problem today, I pulled the cover off to check the adjustment on the star cover. The spring bolts were ok, the main bolt was ok but when i tried to turn the basket by itself i could something grinding, my thrust plate inside the basket had broken into many pieces, I torqued the main bolt to 51 lbs like the book says but i guess that i broke it then, Glad i found it this way and not at 6k rpm.....Any idea on where i might find a set of thrust plates?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there XJ Dan,

Just checked the fiche for 78 XS11 and 82Xj, the clutch parts are the same!! Question, you say thrust plate, do you mean "Pressure Plate", and the one down deep in the basket with the 6 shafts coming up that the star plate bolts into?? If so, that is Pressure Plate #2, and is listed as part #
2H7-16352-00-00 Still available on Cycle-parts.com for $29.50 according to their search!! Dont' forget the dashes and zeroes!

If you're talking about the bigger clutch boss assembly that the starplate sits inside of and holds all the other friction/steel plates in place, it's not listed on their site!? HTH.
T.C.

PS, check out the Yamaha Parts Online catalog, they have redone it's interface, and it seems to respond much quicker!!

[xj11DAN]

according to the parts fische i have it is the flat washer looking plate that sits inside the basket between the boss and the pressure plate. there is one inside the basket and one on the backside of the basket. i found them at bike bandit this morning for 7 bucks each. thanks.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there XJ11Dan,

I could have sworn that those parts were STEEL, not aluminum, so that's pretty amazing if yours are "broken"!! However, I could be wrong about them being steel!? It's been several years since I was inside mine!

I think I remember that the inner plate was a little tricky to keep centered inside the basket while I was mounting it back onto the shaft. I think I used 1 starplate bolt and spring without the starplate to tighten it enough to hold the plates/clutch boss together and that kept pressure against that thrust washer in the bottom of the basket, which allowed me to align it properly on the shaft.

Then I also spun the basket around several turns, loosened the starplate bolt, and ensured that the clutch basket had truly slide all the way onto the shaft, mating with the gears behind it!!!

I'm wondering if your thrust washer might not have been fully aligned, and torqueing the main nut down, caused it to crush/bend/fracture it some how!? I hope the gears underneath the basket are not damaged!!?? Good Luck!
T.C.

[xj11DAN]

howdy, I am guessing that it did not stay in place for me, i had done the sam by holding it inplace with a couplce of springs and bolts. I have a boss that i used on my old dirt bikes for just such adjustment problems I think that it may help to hold them in place. the one on the inside of the basket is the tricky one. THe guys at the local shop are wondering if it is not because the motor had sat from 85 to 99 when my dad bought it then he did not ride it but about 1k in the two years he had it. I got it from dad and have ridden it 25k in the past two years. I think that the time sitting may ahve been a part of it. The fiber pads were toast at 30k miles so i wonder.....