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valve seals, or guides

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  • valve seals, or guides

    For several years now I've been burning oil due to bad oil seals or guides, or both. I was wondering, do you guys think that I'm only in need of new seals, or do the valve guides typically wear out by 50k miles? If I could get by with just seals, that would keep my head out of the machine shop(less down time ).
    1980sg-Stocker-- Sold
    1980sg- Cruise Missile- Sold to RODS454
    1990 ATK 604- Ditch Digger
    2005 BMW K1200S- Killer Bee
    2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000- trackbike

  • #2
    just my thoughts

    Hey drags, if it were me i think i'd have to go the whole nine yards.If it were already apart just do the head complete,Why take it apart two or three times if you don't need to?(meaning, valves today, seals next week, guides in a three weeks,port and polish week after that.....) you get the point.Just what i'd do. Good luck in whatever ya decide.
    1982 XJ 1100
    going strong after 60,000 miles

    The new and not yet improved TRIXY
    now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

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    • #3
      Hey Chevy, and Dragxs11,

      I remember reading about only 1 person on the Forum that had problems with a leaking valve guide, and replaced it, but it was a real PITA to do it!! I've rebuilt my topend(big bore) after an estimated 40+kmiles, just replaced the valve seals, the guides were in great shape. I think it was John who just did a complete rebuild with big bore, new bearings and such, but don't remember him mentioning replacing his valve guides.

      Those things do use an O-ring for a seal, but are pressed in there pretty firmly, and I would suspect that unless the valve guide has come loose/shifted/dropped, that they are probably still sealing well, and that his valve seals are the culprit.

      I know how to check valves for leaking, but not sure how to check valve guides? Any hints here Ken/Sooke, others? That way he could take it apart as planned, and if the guides aren't messed up or leaking, then he can confidently proceed with just replacing the valve seals!
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

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      • #4
        TopCAt, I think I was the one that you may be thinking of. My valve guide was leaking, but only because the cam chain jumped and the valves bent damaging only on of the guides. It was a bear to get in as the size that was sold was one size over and the head that I have had no wear, so the fit was way to tight.
        I would have a tendence to say: If the valves have never been bent from piston contact, then I would simply put in valve seals.
        79 XS1100 f (BIGDOG)
        80 XS650 Special
        85 KAW 454 LTD
        Dirty Dan

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        • #5
          If I remember driveway motor repair 101-

          Oil smoke all the time is piston hole or major ring problem.
          Oil smoke mostly under hard acceleration is rings.
          Oil smoke mostly when decelerating is valve seals.
          Oil smoke mostly at startup is valve seals.

          These are generalizations, of course. There are probably more.
          Marty in NW PA
          Gone - 1978E - one of the first XS11 made
          Gone - 2007A FJR - the only year of Dark Red Metallic
          This IS my happy face.

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          • #6
            Thanks guys, I know it's in the head cause it smokes on deceleration, and at idle. I just talked to my mechanic a couple days ago, and he said that he replaced the valve seals when he put in the big bore kit. Not sure I believe him. But never-the-less, the head will have to come off again to see whats wrong
            1980sg-Stocker-- Sold
            1980sg- Cruise Missile- Sold to RODS454
            1990 ATK 604- Ditch Digger
            2005 BMW K1200S- Killer Bee
            2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000- trackbike

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