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superceded oil seal conundrum

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  • superceded oil seal conundrum

    Hi all. I have an interesting problem which I'm not sure is resolvable, but I'm looking for any input you might have.
    First off, I have a 1980 xs1100sg.
    So, I ordered two crankshaft oil seals (the ones at the end of the crank that fit into the gooves in the crankcase halves).
    These are OEM part numbers 93101-32087-00 and 93101-32088-00.
    the 32087 part came as just that. the 32088 seal has been superceded twice, and the end result for "correct" part number comes to 93101-32144
    That's all fine, except that it is an obviously different part. Actually, they are the same except for the glaring difference that there is no ridge along the outer circumference of the seal that would seat itself in the crankcase halves. Yamaha sent me another one in case the part had been mispackaged, but same problem. Basically, I think this is a case where Yamaha made an error in compatible parts to supercede to, and now there isn't anything I can do to get a new seal unless I somehow find another part number that is compatible. Anyway, here are a few of my thoughts:
    1. Use the old seal. My seals actually look really good, with no signs of wear, but egads, it makes me nervous not replacing a seal that is around the crank of all places - it must have some wear on it, even if it isn't noticable. This is probably what I will have to end up doing.
    2. Use the new seal and assume that even though it doesn't have the ridge which obviously holds that darn thing into place, Yamaha realized this and is assuring me that the part will work just fine. I'd be real nervous about this though, because it seems like the seal could almost be yanked out without even cracking the crankcase (once I put it back together). Any thoughts?
    3. It seems weird to me that this hasn't been an issue for anyone else. I mean, us xs11 owners aren't in the millions, but there must be enough of us that have cracked their crankcase for whatever reason, and then replaced these two seals as a simple precaution when they reassembled it. Seems like I could have found a mention of this problem on the net, these forums, etc.

    Anyhoo, I'm going to wait and see if anyone replies with anything helpful, but am probably going to reuse my old seal, and be nervous about it for the next 4 years :-)

    thanks!
    Scott

  • #2
    I recently replaced the same seals in my bike. The right side seal is correct, even though the ridge is missing. That is good though, as you can change the positioning a little if there should be a little wear groove in the crank. I bought mine from Bike bandit, and I recieved OEM Yamaha parts. I wish the left side was ribless...

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    • #3
      Hey John, and Dweomer21,

      Thankfully I haven't had to split my cases (yet!), but wouldn't it be prudent to use some sort of sealant around the outer edge of the seal where it contacts the cases, to help it be more secure since it doesn't have that securing lip?? John, did you use any sealant around your rimless seal!?

      It's hard to tell from the diagrams/pictures in the Clymer's, so I can't tell if there is a slight lip to the outer edge of the cases where the seal sits!? John, you said you could slide the seal in or out slightly allowing for repositioning on the crank possibly away from any worn ridge in the crank, that makes me think that there isn't a retaining outer lip!?

      Ratbyk, Geezer, any differing thoughts!?
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

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      • #4
        Scott
        I have a 79 xs1100sf with the same problem. I ordered the seal three times from two different dealers, thinking that maybe their parts book was wrong. I ended up with the same seal. No rib. They told me that there was enough press fit when the two halves were put together to keep it from leaking. The mechanic also said not to use any sealant on the seal. there is some kind of composite in the sealant that keeps the seal from sealing correctly.
        The end result for me is that I am going to put it together the way that they told me to. If it leaks I guess that I will have to tear it down again and do something different.
        Good luck and have fun.
        David
        n7qnc@peak.org
        David Abercrombie

        1979 XS1100SF

        Comment


        • #5
          Crank Seals?

          I'm not telling you to do or even suggesting that you do, BUT!
          If it was me in this situation; I would use a small amount of a good quality "weather strip adhesive". The type of glue used to glue the rubber around automotive doors etc. It seems to be impervious to oil and fuel when dry. I have even sealed small fuel tank leaks to "get home" with good success. I also use it to glue cam cover gaskets to the cover. Only put it on one side and have been able to R&R cam covers 2-3 times before having to replace the gasket again.
          Anyway, that's what I would do.
          Ken/Sooke
          PS, I'm not always right either. Lots of times I do the same job over 2-3 times before I get an acceptable repair when attempting things for the first time.

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