final drive filler gorilla

[tfm3]

Thanks alot ,buickyouth. Now I can't get that [censored] right 'round song outta my head.Time to blast some Dead Kennedy tunes to clear it out. Not to sound like broken record or anything, but I consider antisieze one of the most essential components of my tool kit. Thinking about going back to the local boneyard and pulling a few filler caps off.

[buickyouth]

Yeah, I'm a big advocate of boneyard scavanging. Sorry about the song getting stuck in your head. At least it wasn't 'It's a small world after all.'

Well, ttfn, tfm

[CRXSi90]

Well, mine came off with a pair of channel locks. I guess I'm lucky. The allen thing is still messed up, but probably okay if it isn't torqued down too tight, and if there is a washer or o-ring in there.

now for 1 question: are you sure that you can weld a nut on these? What kind of metal are they? I'd be surprised if it is steel, which would make the welding process a difficult task.

[Sieg]

My oil filter bolt was giving this problem last week. It was completely rounded off and vice grips did nothing. It was locked tight. The bolt hadn't been removed for well over 20 years (it was parked in a shed and I think the filter was original) and was rounded off before I got it.

Finally I took the dremel with a cutting disk, scored one edge of the flat part almost down to the oil filter cover, and used a chisel and hammer and hammered in the direction to remove the bolt. Came right out using that method. (well, maybe not right out...it took a few hits)

Wasn't too bad to do since I have the engine out and could lay it on it's side...LOL. Would have been miserable laying on my back to do this.

[chevy45412001]

impact

i did not read this thread completely over again,But has no one here ever gave stuborn bolts and plugs a good whack with a hammer? That usualy works very well for breaking lose things such as this.XSpecialy in aluminum. As a matter of fact i give any thing i'm taking apart in aluminum a sharp crack with hammer before even attempting to remove. XS rate 99.9 percent of time works like a charm. .1 percent start a thread like this lol

[Pat Kelly]

One of the 1st tips I tried after discovering this buncha nuts (the Yahoo group, pre-forum) was using a "GatorGrip" socket on the oil filter bolt (or any rounded bolthead). It works great.

[grifff]

easy out

Well i had this problem with middle and rear plugs. They were already stripped. My only option left was an easy out and i couldn't get it in far enough. I drill a hole very carefully deaper and used an easy out. It took tremendous tork with the easy out, by the way.

Griff

[skids]

Re: thanks guys!

I had one that I destroyed when removing it. I went with a new plug from Yomamma ($11.00?) and bought a nylon washer to prevent a reoccurrance -- although I never wrench them in THAT tight. It is a funny thing how the oil can lube when tightening and then migrate away, leaving a tough-to-remove plug.

About welding...you might think about disconnecting the ground on the battery and just to be safe, disconnect the ignition box. I would try to connect the welder ground as close to that plug as possible! You know, like the bottom of the final drive housing. You might find that, after the weld, the plug just easily turns out, because of the thermal expansion/contraction. The technique is used a lot by mechanics in other applications.

Originally posted by justyn.smith

but I'm going to purchase a hardened steel 8mm bolt to install (with nylon/rubber washer for a seal) so that there's no doubt about it coming out again next time.

There's a glimmer of hope that if the new bolt seizes onto the old bolt that they'll both come out together, if not then if/when I find a decent welder I'll have the remnants of the plug removed....maybe I'll just take it to a bike shop and ask them to remove it and replace it (evil grin)

[justyn.smith]

Tried the easyout too, and it snapped off. Fortunately there was enough left to use pliers to remove the broken easyout or drilling would have been much tougher!

I've had a chat with a few locals about what happenned to me, the general feeling is that the alloy casing and the bolt have a chemical reaction (electrolisys?) over a long period of time that causes the threads to bind and lock regardless of how tight you do them up to begin with.

Perhaps now these beautifull bikes are in the posession of people who love them they'll get the REGULAR oil changes they need and the bolts wont have time to seize.

[sundowner]

welding on diff plugs

hey ken, just got around to reading the posts about welding the diff plugs. just fyi the reason to unhook the electrical connectors is that the voltage surge when you weld on your bike will burn upthe alternator or regulator. not to mention burning out light bulbs and/or switches. just a thought. luther













It is not the destination but the journey that counts. love the twisties.

[Michael March]

I had this same problem, and used the cold chisel on the outside edge to create a groove and then a couple of taps with the hammer in the right direction trick and it worked great. Now I'd like to replace that plug with a new one. Anyone know where to get one online and/or what the part number is from Yamaha?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Michael,
That part # is 4H1-15189-00-00 Plug: sells for $3.71 at Cycle-parts.com, but they have a $100.00 minimum limit. You can probably get it thru your local Yamaha dealer as well? You might find it thru some other online sources, this was just the one I usually check!

Fiche also shows a gasket/washer: 214-11198-01
T.C.

[Michael March]

Thanks TC. I'll call the local yokel tomorrow a.m.