final drive filler gorilla

[justyn.smith]

thanks guys!

Your support and encouragement has been just what I needed!

I'm glad to hear that the foaming is normal, and I am going to tap-flush-flush-flush-flush!

but I'm going to purchase a hardened steel 8mm bolt to install (with nylon/rubber washer for a seal) so that there's no doubt about it coming out again next time.

There's a glimmer of hope that if the new bolt seizes onto the old bolt that they'll both come out together, if not then if/when I find a decent welder I'll have the remnants of the plug removed....maybe I'll just take it to a bike shop and ask them to remove it and replace it (evil grin)

untill then a small funnel and carefully measured quantities will have to be the way, oil changes are a pain in the butt anyway since the 4-1 has to come off for the main oil change anyway, what's another 10-15 minutes on a 4 hour service?

as for the ride? you betcha, I'll be mobile before lunch and I'll need a shave when I get back!

Ride safe guys!

[mitch]

Hammer Chisle and punch

Thats the tools i had to use to get mine out . I gave the plug a couple good firm hits with the hammer then made a good groove on the outside edge with the chisle. Then i used the punch to remove it. Had to replace the plug but it came out . Worth a try .........MITCH

[CMA1]

If you are going to tap it anyway and use a hardened bolt.....
Why not tap a left-hand thread and use some red loc-tite on the (left-hand threaded) bolt??? Let it setup overnite then torque the whole mess right out of there!!!
Sounded easy when it passed 'through' my feeble brain!!!!

I used the dremel method on mine... cut a slot, used a sharp cold chisel like a screw driver, and pounded the pi$$ out of it with a 2 lb'er, visegrips holding the chisel.... got real ugly with it but it came out!! (It was either coming out or the diff was going to split!!!!)

Good luck bro'
- Larry

[fredintoon]

Fixing the drain plugs

My XS11SG had both it's drain plugs Gorilla'd in by the PO and the hex holes were cratered out besides. (as was every last Phillips head on the bike; I have been making the Bolt Supply House a fortune.) After much effort I gave up on Allen keys and very carefully filed two flats on the head of each so that they could be undone with an open ended wrench. After the plugs were out I counterbored the cratered hex holes to 6mm, sawed off two M6 hex bolts to stubs so they fitted in flush then brazed them on. Now the plugs go in and out with an 11mm box-end wrench just like Yamaha shoulda done in the first place.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[D. P. Larmee]

This string of posts might be overdone, but i've had this same problem a number of times. Way that's always worked for me is put an allen key on it and a quick kick with the heal of your boot. This was after breaking one allen key with a cheater bar. The impact of a kick never fails!

[buickyouth]

kaRACK that bolt

When a tight bolt comes along,
You must kick it.
When you think the bolt is siezed,
You can kick it.



Kick it.
Kick it good.

[CRXSi90]

[censored] PO gorilla'd both of mine too. I like the idea of tacking a nut or bolt on the top! I'm not certain that their current condition won't work, but what is the best way to attempt? Should I do the "kick it!" thing and hope for the best, or should I attempt the "slow and painful" method?

One quick question at least: These -are- metric, right?

Dang, I can't wait to get this thing going, but I'm so busy w/ other stuff. Aargh. Oh well, I went out and started it up tonight...It has been sitting for about a month, so that is pretty decent. It didn't start easy, but it started. I really gotta get off my [censored] and order up air and oil filters, at least! Tomorrow, I'm tellin ya! I hope. Sorry for the chatter, I hope no one minds... ...Kevin

[buickyouth]

Metric or Standard

Especially if you have kinda rounded things out a bit, the question of metric or standard is more so a question of what gets you a tighter fit.
As we all know, even a little looseness can contribute to effing up any kind of bolt.
Roundness is only cool if you have a special.
And even then, try and keep it's roundness stock.

Unless you're in this band. In that case, you can spin me right round, baby. Right round. Like a record baby right round right round.

[CRXSi90]

haha! LOL, thats great. I did try both, and neither fit that tight. Darn.

Would it be worth trying to re-hexify it with one of those diamond-bit dremel tools? I hope I'm not toast here...bah, I'll gget it out one way or another! I'm tellin ya, though, people should put these in so tight!

Thanks for the laugh, buickyouth!

[pathfinder]

No

CRXSi90, Don't use a diamond bit they are not made for steel, you'll just tear up the tool and not accomplish anything. It's not that big a deal to tack weld a nut on thru the hole and then use a box end wrench to remove. I don't remember ever having as much trouble as everyone is describing. I used a metric allen wrench with a box end wrench over the end for leverage, smacked it with the heal of my hand and they both broke loose. My hand was a little sore but it healed. The bike won't, you have to fix it.
You might try driving a male torx bit mounted in a socket or the single piece kind would be better with a 3/8 drive into a stripped out allen, it has sixteen points instead of 8. Then use a 3/8 drive ratchet to turn them out. You may have to drill out the original allen a little bigger (not thru) to get the right size. They are generally sharp enough to broach a new female that is good and tight. Sounds dirty doesn't it. Get your mind out of the gutter. Get new plugs and or bolts. Make sure when you put it back together use anti-seize.

[justyn.smith]

woah!

Hey looks like we've rubbed a sensitive spot!

I'm wondering if perhaps these bolt tighten by themselves over time (chemical reaction or something). There's no way so many people do these bolts up THAT tight so often, I mean this bolt is ridiculously tight!

I gave CMA1's sugestion some thought but then the new thread is only as strong as the mild steel bolt it's tapped into, chances are I'll just strip my new thread with a left hand bolt overtighten.

I've drilled it out to 8mm + tapped it to 3/8ths stainless steel and used a rubber washer (now THAT would have prevented our problems ever forming if one had been used from the start!). There's no need to overtighten as there's no internal pressure, just need to make a seal.

To fill I've run a tube with a funnel on the end, just measure out 300cc of oil and crack a few beers and wait, not such a bad thing really, takes about 15mins to fill.

Thanks again for all your sugestions, I hope my experience has helped others overcome their own gorillas!

[John]

Did anybody mention using Vise Grips?

[rev79xs11]

Mine was really tight and I used a chisel on the outside edge. First tapping straight in to dimple the edge of the plug and then changing the angle of impact to the proper direction to break the plug loose. Worked well, just have to be careful not to dig into your drive housing with the chisel. You may wind up needing a new plug too.

[pathfinder]

?????

John mine both set almost flush, I couldn't get Vise-Grips on if I had to. Remember Vice grips are actually made to round off Hex Bolts and Nuts beyond repair. Although they make a dandy clamp they do transfer heat to your hand really well when welding and a pretty good emergency shifter for the 4 on the floor in an old truck I used to have.

[skids]

Re: ?????

Hah! I used vice grips on an econoline van when I broke the shifter on the column. I was between states on a long trip. Great minds think alike.

Originally posted by pathfinder
and a pretty good emergency shifter for the 4 on the floor in an old truck I used to have.