final drive filler gorilla

[justyn.smith]

help!!!! The po or their mechanic has done up the final drive oil filler super gorilla tight.

I've twisted my allen key trying to break the seal and am worried about stripping the keyway.

does any of the gurus out there have any ideas? (I've tried penetrene, no go)

Thanks!

[tfm3]

Just did mid/rear gear oil today. Lucked out on the mid-cracked it open with penetrating oil and allen wrench/steel pipe combo.
Rear didn't go so well. Got it open, corrected oil level, ruined it putting the cap back on. Lot's of valuable posts on this topic -don't forget to clean the surface area and bits before,during and after surgical procedure. Tranny feels much smoother, now.
So,about that Dremel slotting suggestion......

[buickyouth]

I found that it helps if the bike is cool.
So, be patient and let it sit.
In the meantime apply whatever kind of lubes you want to apply to 'set the mood' or loosen things up.
Once the time comes.
Trust me, you'll know.
Put the alan wrench in, put a length of pipe on it. Apply pressure in the direction to loosen it. Hold it there to maintain purchase. And SLAM the effin' thing with the side of your hand.
It also helps to think of the karate kid.
More specifically Kobra Kai.
"Stike first. Strike hard. No mercy SIR!"

[buickyouth]

p.s. don't fall for the crain kick

it's the oldest trick in the book.

[tfm3]

Ha
Ha and
Ha. So how's that gonna help me with my stripped rear cap,eh?
BTW, ya misspelled CRANE !

[justyn.smith]

leverage

thanks for the sugestions, I'd already tried the pipe on the allenkey, that's how I put the quater twist in it. don't know my own strength I guess arrrrg!

my worry is now the keyway is getting a little sloppy and once it's rounded its gone. RP7, WD40 etc hasn't done much, and the bike had been sitting for a week in the shade.

I'm thinking of removing the drain plug and putting the blowervac on it to pressurize the diff the drilling out the screw.

Does the diff become pressurised during use? if not when /if I drill the screw I'll just find a rubber plug to make a seal.

Unless there's another way.....

[randy]

This is what worked for me. Mine was stuck tight because the PO NEVER changed the diff oil for the life (23k) of the bike.

Anyway, apply Liquid Wrench and let soak overnight. Then use an Allen SOCKET on a breaker bar. Heat the area around the cap with a propane torch. Heat the diff, not the cap. If the cap is still stiff, while hot, tap the diff with a hammer as you apply pressure with the bar.

You may have to touch up the paint a bit, but i'll bet the cap comes off. Mine did. Good luck.

Randy

[Renegade]

I had the same problem with mine. PO had never changed the drive oil.

I kept it soaked with penetrating oil for a couple of days, then heated the casing and applied ice to the filler plug. Repeat the process a few times and the plug will break loose with a few tries.

[ratbyk]

Rear End Plug

How about an allen key socket and an impact driver. If that won't do it you are limited to drilling out. A little heat on the alloy housing should help a bunch.
Ken/Sooke

[justyn.smith]

drilling out

ok, bad to worse...

using moderate pressure I used an allen socket with breaker bar, heated and tapping, and rounded the keyway, looks like I'm drilling.

When I drill through there's likely to be some shavings fall into the diff. I know the drain plug is magnetised but am I likely to cause much damage rotating the wheel with drill shavings in there?

From the look of it the gearing is about 1" inside the edge "hopefully" giving room for the shavings to fall straight to the bottom of the empty chamber and get caught on the magnet.

Has anyone done this before? if not I'll be the first and I'll let you know how it went.

wish me luck!

[Ken Talbot]

Might be worth a try to have a good welder tack a nut onto the plug so you can get a grip on that with a decent wrench. That's how I got out some broken-off heat shield bolts a few years back. The nut doesn't have to be completely welded - a couple of spots should do it. If you go this way, take off the seat so you can unplug the TCI box and maybe the battery ground cable.

[justyn.smith]

eeeeek!

Welding scares the s**t out of me!

I've drilled am 8mm hole down through the bolt and flushed the diff with several litres of old oil to make sure any shavings came out.

(BTW I also tried a large 'easy out' but they're too brittle)

so anyway, after flushing+draining many times over I've got a nice clean diff full of 80W90 hypoid oil.

now, after a brief test run on the centre stand the hypoid oil seems to froth and leak back out of the hole. I'm not used to seeing oil froth unless it's contaminated by water (which this is not) I'm wondering if this is normal behaviour for that type of oil and that I'm going to have to tap a thread into the hole for a replacement bolt rather than the intended plastic cap.

or do you think the plastic cap will do the trick?

[ratbyk]

Oil Foaming Rear End

Have you over filled the rear end? It is only supposed to have 10 US oz (300cc -8.45 imp.oz) in it. When draining it is suggested that you allow it to drain for about 15 minutes to ensure that it is completely drained before top up with new oil.

Yes, I think you should tap and install a proper plug.

At the top of the rear end is a vent or breather cap to allow expansion/contraction of the oil. It is a "top hat" shaped plastic cap.

This is going to be one well flushed rear end. Keep plugging away. It will soon be time to take it off the stand and go fora ride.
Ken/Sooke

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Ken, Justyn,

I agree that he should tap and install new bolt/plug with vinyl or crush washer for sealing. That hypoid gear is quite thick and with the churning of those gears, it's kinda like soap, stir it up and you're going to get bubbles. Funny, my vent cap is metal, but I'm sure there's a reason Yamaha put it WAY UP THERE on the top, to allow the bubbles to spread but break before reaching it and causing it to leak!?
T.C.

[Ken Talbot]

T.C. - I believe Justyn is talking about oil now coming out of the new hole that he drilled through the filler cap and is also now how he gets fluid into the final drive.

The plastic cap that was there before was only there to keep the allen socket clear of debris - it was never meant to hold oil. You're probably going to need to tap the 8mm hole so you can close if off with a bolt, but then you're going to be back to where you started if that bolt gets stuck in its hole! I'm not a welder, and I have to admit that welding scares the c%@p out of me too. That's why I'm fascinated to watch a good welder do this kind of job. It will take you longer to take your seat off than it will take a welder to tack on a nut. It all happens so quick for the little bit required that there won't be any large heat buildup or major fire risk. Just thnk how much easier it will be be to be able to add fluid through a hole bigger than 8mm!