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  • Timing chain adjustment

    I've noticed a noise similar to a rattle at an even 4500 rpm cruise, think it might be the chain. Can anyone tell me exactly how to adjust it, I'm not sure about the torque on the tensioner. Also, my bike has 20k on it, how often should this and valve adjustments be done? is it due...overdue??

    Thanx for any help in advance!!

    Ron Evans
    79 xs11 special
    Ron Evans
    79 xs11sf
    99 kawasaki ninja 250 (70mpg)!

  • #2
    There's instructions for the timing chain adjusment under the maintenence section... Very simple. The rattle you're hearing - is it all the way up the TPM range or just at certain spots. I've adjusted the chain a couple times and I've got a rattle but it only happens intermittently at about 2900-3200 RPM. Outside of that range - no rattle. I'm not sure if it's the timing chain or something else.

    Try the maintenance section for the instructions. The valve adjustment is probably due (also in the maintenance repair section). I haven't done one on mine yet 31000 miles but plan to do it this winter - probably a good weekend project. While I'm in there, I'll probably go ahead and replace the timing chain.

    Tom B.

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    • #3
      In the left column here, click on tech tips, then maitenance, scrollo down to cam chain, click it, follow instruction, and you will then become an xs-sive cam chain mechanic. watch out for hot pipes
      put something smooooth betwen your legs, XS eleven
      79 F (Blueballs)
      79 SF (Redbutt)
      81 LH (organ donor)
      79 XS 650S (gone to MC heaven)
      76 CB 750 (gone to MC heaven)
      rover has spoken

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      • #4
        The timming chain has a spring tentioner inside of it, but you have to release the bolt to allow it to take up the free play once in a while.

        >>Loosen up the lock nut first.

        >>Then back off the bolt to allow the tentioner to take up the slack.

        >>Then tighten the bolt back up and lock down the lock nut afterwards.

        All Done!
        Bubba1954
        (aka) Shannon Koehn
        Hutchinson, KS
        http://www.fototime.com/inv/0EE87CEC5C8C774

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        • #5
          procedure

          read the procedure first, you have to line up some marks with pointers then loosen up the tentioner,etc. It is a very easy thing to do,only takes five min. or so. Once youv'e done it.Just read the proper way to go about it.I have a bad memory but you can only rotate the engine one direction or damage could result.
          1982 XJ 1100
          going strong after 60,000 miles

          The new and not yet improved TRIXY
          now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

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          • #6
            Good points about linning up the timming marks inside the left cover and the rotating the engine clockwise. Sorry I completely forgot that this was neccessary. I guess that's why I depend so much on my shop manuals before doing any repairs.
            Bubba1954
            (aka) Shannon Koehn
            Hutchinson, KS
            http://www.fototime.com/inv/0EE87CEC5C8C774

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            • #7
              I changed my cam chain to get rid of my rattle that comes about 3500 and goes away about 4500, but I still have the same rattle. It sounds like a wrist pin, but it would be odd for a wrist pin to only happen at those RPMs. I have 37,000 on my engine and the new chain was only 1/8" shorter than the old one. The chain seamed very tight after adjusting the tensioner -- before putting the valve cover on. I did notice that there were some slight wear marks , more like a polished place, on the inside of my valve cover where the chain is. Maybe this noise is just something that XS11s have.
              Bill Murrin
              Nashville, TN
              1981 XS1100SH "Kick in the Ass"
              1981 XS650SH "Numb in the Ass"
              2005 DL1000 V-Strom "WOW"
              2005 FJR1300 Newest ride
              1993 ST1100 "For Sale $2,700" (Sold)
              2005 Ninja 250 For Sale $2,000 1100 miles

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              • #8
                noise

                mine did'nt go away either.but mine comes on when leting off the throttle,more like a hamonics sound then a rattle,a metalic twang if you will.took off the exhaust shield, and retightened the exhaust bolts at the jug,(there was a few a hair lose.).my scoot has 49,000 miles on it.i really need to save some coin and go big,(bore that is ). As the whole top end and bottom end are in need of attention.
                1982 XJ 1100
                going strong after 60,000 miles

                The new and not yet improved TRIXY
                now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sometimes if a P/O tightened the bolt to much it will groove the bar and it will not snap back out like it should. You can take it apart and check it to make sure it slides freely.
                  "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

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                  • #10
                    ok

                    already then,got it on the road for a real test,engine is quite and runs strong. Must have been lose parts causing rattle,noticely quite though ,good luck with ya'lls noises.
                    1982 XJ 1100
                    going strong after 60,000 miles

                    The new and not yet improved TRIXY
                    now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Engine Noises

                      On returning from Bozeman I have had a very noticeable buzz from my engine. (I thought) Was a bit muffled but definitely a new noise. I searched and searched. Bingo, the fuel filler cap was not pulling down tight. I run a tank bag most of the time which covered the culprit and muffled the noise somewhat. The hook on the cap that clips around a small bar to hold the cap down tight was not pulling it down. At certain RPM/loads this buzz would appear and then go away when ever the RPM/load changed a bit.
                      Took a short (maybe 1") Piece of 1/8" or 1/16 vacuum line. Split it and slipped on around the bar that pulls the cap down and holds it tight. This pulled the cap down tighter and gave me a rubber to metal contact point which removed the buzz.
                      Just another place to check for those little annoyances.
                      Ken/Sooke
                      78E Ratbyk
                      82 FT500 "lilRat"

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