thxs all

[grifff]

i put everything back together adjusted the carbs a bit it runs well. IM wondering how much better it would run if i adjusted the intake and valve pads to right specs. I couldnt get ahold of someone with the tool so i dont know what shims i need. Seems
my valves are off quit a bit off. intake average .900 on all 4, and exhaust average .160 on all 4? Will i notice much diff. if i get it shimmed right?

[ratbyk]

Valve Adjustment

Yes, it will run better and likely make more power and last longer. Tight valve clearances mean lost compression and eventually valve over heating and burning. Combustion gases streaming between the valve and seat will act just like a cutting torch and burn a hole on the face of the valve.
Loose valve clearances mean a lot of valve clatter, lost power because the valve is not opening all the way, a hammering affect on all parts in the valve train that will lead to breakage.
I hope that you measurements were accurate. Wouldn't want you to worry or spend $ needlessly but the measurements you have quoted call for a valve adjustment. It likely has never been done since the bike was built.
In fact the measurements that are quoting are really questionable. Are you talking in mm or thousands of an inch? Do you have the decimal place in the right place?
Ken/Sooke

[grifff]

valves

yeah i measured emm twice like i said or missed represented .080 est. for intake actually in secquence .080, .127, .127, .080... exhaust .178, .178, .152, .152 (1,2,3,4) respectively

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Griff,

Like Ratbyk said, those clearances are too tight. And you may already have some excessive carbon buildup around and inbetween the valves and seats!? As for the tool, a fellow Xsive will be sending me the pictures and diagrams/measurements for making one yourself!! I'll post it as soon as I get it. A more laborious way would be to actually pull the cams, but that takes a bit more knowledge about aligning the sprockets and chain and such, doable but more chance of getting something wrong and bending valves! l

I did mine that way only because I had to do a top end job and had it apart anyways, and didn't have the tool!!! Also, once you get the shims changed, then you can also get some spray cleaner to squirt into the throat of the carbs while it's running that can help to burn away carbon buildup in cylinders and valve. Someone even suggested using a simple squirt/spray bottle and cold water!!!

Have you done a compression check? Low values that don't improve much with a squirt of oil would indicate poor valve seal!!
T.C.

[Ken Talbot]

I heard another interesting variation on using a liquid cleaner instead of spray. Just attach a clear plastic hose to each of the manifold nipples in turn, and drop the other end into the can of cleaner. The vacuum will pull in lots of cleaner. Claear tubing lets you see how much cleaner you're introducing.....