Oil Filter Bolt Knackered!

[JustJoeV]

Hi All,

'78E here. Since I got her in 2016 the filter bolt has been next to impossible to get off! Hard to get in too but easier than getting out. I've already been through 3 bolts. To get them out usually involves my craftsman bolt extractors after my socket rounds off the head. Well now the extractor won't get it out! Yesterday I changed the oil and couldn't change the filter. My guess is now I'll have to grind off the bolt and destroy the oil filter chamber. ( I have another chamber and bolt) My question is what can I do to maybe clean up the threads in the sump so the bolt goes in and out easier? Any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.

TIA
Joe V

[kboehringer]

6-Point Socket

Joe,
I've had some difficulties with these bolts as well. The spring and washer on the bolt creates some of the issue but those have to be in there to have a proper seal. Several of the bikes I purchased didn't have those installed

I have found that a tiny bit of grease on the filter rubber rings top & bottom and on the o-ring on the bolt is very helpful.

Also, I never use anything but a 6-point socket on 6-Point wrench on that filter bolt. A 12-point will screw it up every time.

Kurt

[JeffH]

It sounds like somewhere in the bikes history the threads in the case were damaged. Maybe over torqued. Spec is 23 ft lbs. -or- badly cross threaded.

If you have used 3 different BY-PASS VALVE ASSEMBLY 2H7-13340-00-00 Oil Cover Bolts then that is telling. Surprised you haven't cracked the Oil Cover since those crack easily if bolt is off center.

I will see if I can find the thread specs. Maybe somebody has them readily available and will post.
As for the sump threads a visual inspection would indicate if it was cross threaded.
Also the oil bolt (without the cover) should easily, easily thread in & out. That's the test. Need to test & prove if it is the sump threads, the bolt threads or as Kurt mentioned, not being properly lubricated prior to assembly.

With fresh oil and if nothing is broken or leaking right now I'd just ride it for the summer and tackle this in the winter. Hate to have a problem now and miss riding all summer.

Jeff

[jetmechmarty]

Yes, lube the packings as Kurt says.

A proper sized internal thread chaser may be a worthy investment.

[soccer4m]

grind it

HI Joe V.....since the bolt is already chomped up, and having numerous bolts doing the same, I had good luck grinding the bolt on each side to a two flats with a small metal grinder, the el cheapo 5 inch harbor freight high speed grinder, around 10 bucks, Grind the two sides, get a good vise grip and crank the vise grip tightly and turn, it will come out.

Also,once out get a new one,,,,and the tightening is not a lot, 23 ft. lbs,,,,and grease around the hole where the bolt mates up,

Have fun, it will come out,,,,,,,,Mike in Sun Diego

[motoman]

JustJoeV, while drain bolt is out, put a good fitting copper washer on it before installing. This will allow it to loosen next time it is removed…...no leaks, drips nor errors.

[JustJoeV]

WOW, guys ,

Great responses! All good ideas! APPRECIATED! I do think the internal threads are a least a little dinged up . As I recall the bolt W/O the assembly was really tight and Yes, I know I should have done something last time when I did get it out.

On a little different subject but related. If I can get the #@%$^&* Bolt out, I'm going to try to go to a spin on adapter. I know TC made one but he doesn't seem to be around any more. I found one on eBay for a first gen Vmax that should work so I'm going to give it a whirl. So wish me luck,I'm gonna order it now and next time I change the oil(probably fall) we'll see how it goes. I will report back!

Joe V

[red bandit]

Maybe you can use a pipe wrench to get the old one out.

[jetmechmarty]

VMax spin on

Do a search. I believe the VMax spin-on has been discussed and it is not suitable for the XS1100. I'm sure I read it somewhere and it was likely here.

[cajun31]

Joe v

so far everyone has made very good suggestions to you. I too have had to destroy the bolt getting it out and have used anti seize on the threads since and have never had a problem since. It seems that the steel bolt and the aluminum it is going into don't like each other after prolonged periods of time and the anti seize serves to prevent that from happening. Also if the threads are indeed knackered I would suggest getting a thread die of the appropriate size and recut the threads. Be very careful if you do that so that you don't accidentally enlarge the threads. Cleaning the threads with thread chasers is a safer alternative if they also repair them.

[cajun31]

by the way

I use the anti seize on all of my drain bolts and filler plugs on the oil pan and middle and final drives. They all come loose with no problem and have never loosened on their own.