started tuning my carbs, got a problem

[thebottle]

Alright so to update... I have the same problem today.

I took the carbs off, really made sure the pilot was clean on #4, used carb cleaner, blew out the ports, etc. and went through the other 3 as well again. Also took the idle screw all the way to check and make sure the tip didn't break off. Everything looked good.

Set idle screws to 2.5 turns out. Bench synced again setting all the butterflies the same, as close as I could get with a small wire. Put carbs back on, fired up, warmed up. And #4 is still cold, and not getting fuel.

When cleaning them this morning, I also switched float #1 with #4 to determine if float height was the issue. It wasn't... problem is still on #4.

All the vacuum gauges are pretty close from the bench sync. 1+2 are almost dead on, 3+4 are a a bit off, but I haven't attempted to adjust them since #4 is not getting fuel it seems pointless.

Thinking I just turn out the idle screw until it gets fuel and sync them. Just seems weird that I'd have to when the other 3 are running correctly and this has no fuel... unless there is something I'm missing with the carbs. Sort of at a loss. I do have another set of carbs I could try, but this one is the better of the two.

[3Phase]

Again: have you checked the actual fuel levels in the float bowls, not the installed float heights?

So... unless the fuel tee feeding the #4 carburetor is plugged up with a dead insect or an egg case you should get fuel in that carburetor.

Make sure the inlet filter screens aren't clogged.

Make sure the float arms are set reasonably close to equal height.

Make sure the float drops allow the floats to open and close the needle valve without hanging on the carburetor body or the float bowl.


After you reinstall the carburetors, make sure you are working outdoors whenever you fool with fuel.

People have set the bike on fire and one member burned down his house working with his bike on the porch so keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

Seriously, do not 'fool' with fuel and fire.

Put the fuel tank taps in the Prime position.

Put a metal pan under the carburetors to catch the fuel so you don't light your bike or yourself on fire, then remove the float bowl drain screw from the #4 float bowl.

I'm about out of ideas.

[soccer4m]

float needle

Hey Bottle, hang in there
1. Since there is no gas going out from 4 carb to engine, the float needle is either stuck or closed, maybe slid off the float and will not go up to let gas in,,,,next time you open up the 4 carb move the float up and down to see in needle is moving up,
2. also there usually is a screen under the needle seat, maybe blow carb cleaner through or take out and clean,,,,,,,or blow cleaner through the fuel line into the carb and check the float valve opening for gas flowing
3. sometimes the needle slides off if not hanging on the float properly, worth a check
4. check 4 sparkplug to see is plug is wet after running a bit, showing gas is ok, but spark is not, maybe bad plug wire is all, if you have a spark plug ignition checker also to see if you are getting spark, or the old fashioned way of grounding the plug to the engine and crank over and look at the gap for spark

Keep us informed,,,Mike in Sun DIego

[Ranger_xs1100]

needle jet?

The last time I had a cold cylinder due to fuel problems, I found the needle jet was clogged up. The parts list calls it the main nozzle. It is that tube with 6 or 8 holes in it. Sometimes guys overlook or skip that step in cleaning because the tubular shaped jet gets stuck in the carb body and can be difficult to remove. Sometimes they become so corroded that the end of them actually disintegrates upon removal. However, I’ve had good success tapping it out with a wooden pencil or a wooden dowel rod. Mine had 3 or 4 of the holes clogged up which occurred just from sitting over one winter. It ran good before that. Probably my own fault for not adding stabile or sea foam after parking it.. Spraying crab cleaner down through the tube wasn’t enough to clear it, I had to remove the tube and actually physically run a small wire through each of the 8 holes to clean out the hardened clogging material. It’s definitely worth looking into if you haven’t removed and cleaned the tube thoroughly. Hope it helps!

[thebottle]

Again: have you checked the actual fuel levels in the float bowls, not the installed float heights?

So... unless the fuel tee feeding the #4 carburetor is plugged up with a dead insect or an egg case you should get fuel in that carburetor.

Make sure the inlet filter screens aren't clogged.

Make sure the float arms are set reasonably close to equal height.

Make sure the float drops allow the floats to open and close the needle valve without hanging on the carburetor body or the float bowl.

Yeah, I did all that, blew that T out that feeds the bowl with a air compressor. Blew out all the ports, it's clean.

I'm fine with one carb but man, these give me trouble.

But I did figure something out... after I turned out the idle screw on #4 for it to get fuel and flame was using my colortune, I checked #3 with the colortune and then it wasn't getting fuel!

So I turned the screw out on #3 and went back and forth with the colortune a few times I got them to the correct flame color.

[3Phase]

Eeeexcellent! (/Mr. Burns)
Now go ride!

[thebottle]

Oh, and thanks for all the suggestions from everyone, I was getting a bit frustrated but ya'll helped, .

[Bonz]

Good deal!

[Schming]

Yeah, I did all that, blew that T out that feeds the bowl with a air compressor. Blew out all the ports, it's clean.

I'm fine with one carb but man, these give me trouble.

But I did figure something out... after I turned out the idle screw on #4 for it to get fuel and flame was using my colortune, I checked #3 with the colortune and then it wasn't getting fuel!

So I turned the screw out on #3 and went back and forth with the colortune a few times I got them to the correct flame color.

GOOD JOB !!!

You may want to check synch again, as any change made will affect the synch a bit.

[oldyam80sg]

I rode my SG maybe 3 times last year due to several job changes and nagging medical issues with my arms/shoulders. I also have a 1999 Kawasaki ZRX 1100 and that too has not been ridden much due to an accident in 2012. This year I said it will be different. I started my SG maybe 2 months ago. Started well and I rode it around my storage unit parking lot. This week, I decided to take it and start it to ride to my job since the weather has been good. It started fine but would not stay running when I pushed the choke in. I removed the carbs and took them to my Moms house and proceeded to clean them. I thought all was good until I went to reinstall them the next day. The bike started but didn't want to idle. I rode it to my Moms house and didn't like the idle on it. It wanted to die. I took a spray bottle with water and the #3 pipe was warm but not hot as the others. I again removed the carbs and this time cleaned them twice and blew out all the passages. Reinstalling the carbs, the bike idle now purrs and all the pipes are hot. Clean, clean and when you think its clean again clean. I guess I was in a rush to ride the bike.

[skids]

You could mix Techron total fuel system cleaner in a tank of gas and burn through that.

[Bonz]

Good to hear you got the carbs sorted!

I have a ZRX 1200, have you done any mods to your ZRX 1100?

[oldyam80sg]

Yes Bonz-tons of mods-Didn't play with the exhaust yet but have a slip on and many other goodies..

[Bonz]

I bought my 1200 used with 21,000 miles, over 65,000 miles now. It had a Holeshot jet kit in the stock carbs and pods with the stock headers and a Holeshot slip-on. It was so strong down low and in the mid-range but starts to run out of steam as it gets to higher RPM.

I have since gone to a full Muzzy system, 40mm carbs adapted from a ZZR 1200, ZZR 1200 cams and JE 12.5:1 pistons. Also installed double valve springs from a ZX-11/ZZR1200 and run the ZX11D ECU and timing rotor which bumps the rev limit to 11,500. It's as strong everywhere down low and in the mid-range as the slip-on with jet kit and pods on the stock internal/cammed engine but it keeps on pulling harder and harder the higher you get. The ZZR 1200 cams do sacrifice a bit down low until 4000 RPM but the larger carbs and high compression make that up, with a great rush up top.

If you ever want a simple upgrade, since yours is the 1100, a set of ZX-11 cams will wake it up a bunch and it doesn't sacrifice down-low based on what I have seen. Pick yourself up a used Muzzy or new Delkevic or Black wWdow header and it will be doing 128 hp or so.

[oldyam80sg]

I was in the process of selling the bike since I have not ridden it much since my accident. Every time I go to work on it, I think I wont get what I paid for it and wont take a hit. I have had my Rex since 2006,my ex wife hated it and wanted me to sell it and give her the cash, she and I eventually divorced.