Slipping Clutch Repairs and Mods Thread

[Dudenatz]

At one time, I read a thread (with pics) that explained a clutch teardown, repair and reassembly with mods, including the (washer mod?) and adding an extra disc. I've searched the forum, but can't find it. Does anyone remember this thread, and can you direct me or link me to it? Thanks. (I'll keep looking, so I'll probly find it right after someone else finds it for me.)

[3Phase]

There are some really good tutorials in the XS11INFO menu at the top of the page and Repairs forum.

Have a couple of links!

Drop-down menu:-
Tech Tips

Forum:-
Repairs > Transmission

[ViperRon]

I had a slipping clutch, replaced springs did the washer mod lightly ruffed up the plates not much success. Then on Ebay there was an advertisement for some paper packed racing fiber disks made in China. These were advertised to also work in the R1 they went in and fitted fine. They looked a little different as there were more slits and the pad size was smaller. I did have to do adjustment as these were quite a bit thicker. These have been great there appears to be no slip like before. The springs and other mods have worked for others, for me I feel the rubber cork fibers had finally give up. My only suggestion here is if you go the route of replacing fibers these paper packed have made a believer out of me. I put these in 6 years ago.

[3Phase]

Strictly my opinion and advice: I'm not a fan of the washer trick.

It's ~$25 for new Barnett springs so after you've got the thing torn down, put in new springs instead of the weak ones with washers. It guess depends on how you ride and use the clutch but it's totally easy to work on it. With a few basic tools, I've done it along the road and at the campground during a rally or two just using the sidestand.


The clutch is not fragile. I use the clutch like a torque converter for an automatic transmission and some other pretty gnarly stuff so I don't baby it or try to get every last bit out of the friction materials and springs.

Mmm... I got about 70K miles after putting a 100% brand new OEM clutch in my '80G rebuild before it started slipping because I basically baked it at a rally. It needed new springs so I used the Barnett springs - no more slipping.

Deglaze clutch steels and frictions in your old clutch and use some new springs and you should be good for more smiles, miles, and mayhem until the thing really does wear out.

[Dudenatz]

Thanks for your input, guys.
So, at this point I'm going to install a new Barnett spring set, and check my friction discs for wear. Does anyone happen to know the original thickness spec of the friction discs, and perhaps the wear limit/minimum serviceable thickness? I've found some Japanese repros at a great price from Cruzin Image, an outfit out of Japan, and I'd go with those over a Chinese set. And, they're WAY less than a Barnett, EBC, or Vesrah set. That is if I need to replace. From what I've read, the frictions stand up pretty well under normal conditions, and my bike only has 35K miles on it.
Actually, it seems the clutch slippage presented itself after I switched to using Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I've read the threads with the pros and cons of dino vs. synthetic oil, and I want to stick to Mobil 1. Just my preference. I've considered the washer mod, but at this age and condition, my bike deserves quality repairs and parts, and I hate cutting corners unless I absolutely have to. She's far from perfect, mind you, but she's still in excellent shape for her age. (Wish I could say the same about the other "she" in my life.)
I've got a list of work planned for my girl over the cold months, I'll try to post once I've got the springs (and possibly discs) installed, and the results of my work. I'd still like to hear from anyone regarding the route they took to overcome the slippage issue. It's always nice to have options.

Regards

[Dudenatz]

I can't seem to edit my previous post, but I found the threads on clutch slippage I was looking for, way down in my bookmarks list. Guess I should have looked in more places first. Ah well, I still got some good input.

Regards

[3Phase]

I can't seem to edit my previous post, but I found the threads on clutch slippage I was looking for, way down in my bookmarks list. Guess I should have looked in more places first. Ah well, I still got some good input.

Regards

Heh, the information is there and there are still a few folks that know these bikes inside and out. I did a lot of the engine work for my XJ11 and my '80G in my lap after cleaning the cases and other (cough) ultrasound (/cough)
parts like heads and carburetors. Way too many carburetors.

There is a time limit/grace period for editing your posts. If you do it in the first minute because you saw some egregious mistake you sort of skate on by.

After one minute then it will show the "Edited" tag if you make any changes and I think that's only available for about five minutes.

The site also sends an email copy of your new post to anyone Subscribed to the thread. I think the site waits for the one minute window before emailing your new post but I've never really tested it with a stopwatch or anything. After the grace period your edited post on the site will not match the version sent out by email to the Subscribers.

[Dudenatz]

I'm grateful that I can still access it. There's still a lot of good info to be found here, most helpful indeed. As far as editing goes, thanks Scott for the explanation.

[3Phase]

The biggest "gotcha!" with replacing frictions/steels in the clutch is tightening the bolts for the Pressure Plate Assembly "Star Plate".

There is a step machined into the plate and it will catch in the bore and snap if it is tightened down in any way except dead-solid-perfect.

You MUST tighten the bolts one half turn at a time in a star pattern until it's seated, then do the final torque or the star plate will jam, one of the 'ears' will snap off and you'll need a new one.

When you have it in your hand and start to put it together then you'll be able to see/feel and understand what's going on.

Again: tighten the bolts one half turn at a time in a star pattern and make sure it's not cocked/jammed until it's seated or you will need a new star plate.

The bolts themselves are also fairly soft and they can break/twist off so don't chimp out. Final torque is only 7.2 ft-lb. / 86.4 in-lb. (10 Nm).

[Dudenatz]

Got it, thanks. Now I have to wait for the springs to arrive, and get some other priority work on other things done first. Oh yeah, and find that new clutch housing gasket that's around here somewhere... I hate when that happens. I'll post once I have the job done with the results.

Regards