AARGGHH..Fuel on the floor!

[Materi]

I've read about this here, and as if to confirm my fears, I go to get her out of the garage, and she is sitting in a pool of freakin gasoline. I ordered the pet-cock and octopus rebuild kit, and am studying the problem now. My question is dopey, but here goes. On the pet-cock does the lever act as the indicator to tell the petcock position or is it just the opposite? I'm waiting for the new carb boots to arrive and when they do, the tear-down shall commence. I am hesitant to mess too much with the carbs since 1. I don't really know that much about the technical little devils, and 2. The Bike runs GREAT at all throttle positions. Any further advice or tips?

[beechfront]

i don't think anyone will agree with me but....

i rebuilt my carbs because they were leaking. bike ran fine. - after the rebuild they still leaked. i am pretty sure my float height was fine ..... just something sticking i guess.


in short, my advice is to rebuild the octopus as you said and leave the carbs alone (many people here remove the octopus entirely). i personally don't like the idea of having to shut off both petcocks whenever i park.

also might be a good idea to add a couple in-line fuel filters. they are cheap.

[dragxs11]

If your floats are adjusted properly, and all four float valve needles seat good, there is no need for the octopus thing, or closing petcocks when stopped. Float needles go bad a lot. Especially after sitting dry for many winters. I paid a bike shop like $80 bucks to put that stupid congested mess back in my bike, only to have it leak again after the first night home. It wasn't until I replaced the float needles and seats, and adjusted the float height that the thing stopped. I haven't closed my petcocks in about 2 years(aside from removing the tank for service). No Leakie

[chevy45412001]

pet cock repair

i had leaky gas on floor syndrom.Went to yamy dealer bought two little rubber gaskets that go into petcoks,(they are circular looking with five holes in them,one in center four eqwilly spaced around) removed the two sml screws that hold the lever in place,replaced the gaskets,NO MORE leaks since.And to boot my reserve is working again.total cost was 11.00 dollars american.

[Ken Talbot]

Re: AARGGHH..Fuel on the floor!

The lever acts as the indicator....

Originally posted by Materi
On the pet-cock does the lever act as the indicator to tell the petcock position or is it just the opposite?

[John]

The lever has the word 'fuel' stamped on it. The word fuel should be covering the desired function. The leaking fuel could also be caused by fuel leaking AROUND the needle and seat assy. It may be sealing, but there is a fiber washer under the head of the seat assy, and it may be leaking. The seat could also be loose in it's threads. Are the float needles all brass or is there some rubber at the tips? If they are all brass, then try dipping the needles in some valve grinding compound, and reinsert them in the seat assy and spin them with your fingers. That may help lap the needle to the seat. Make sure to clean the coumpound out with some carb spray. If you have a puddle of fuel on the floor, then by all means check your engine oil. Fuel will leak by the rings and get into the oil, and will RUIN the bearings. Check it the for smell of gas, or if you can, dip something into the oil fill hole, step away from the bike (outdoors) and try to light it with a flame. If it burns readily, then you need to drain and refill the oil, and change the filter.

[Winterhawk]

Most brand new needles and seats will not hold the fuel back if the petcocks are leaking. I saw it happen. A trickle of fuel out the petcocks is enough to fill the airbox. Beware if you use K@L's kit you have to modify the plastic block in the petcocks and thin it out some to make the plunger and "O" ring seal all the way in. This info was turned on to me by Braden at Merriam Cycle .

[bryzx2]

You might try checking the fuel lines for cracks. I had fuel leaking lately and found a small crack in one of the hoses right by the carburetor. It doesn't take much of a crack for plenty of gas to leak either.

[Materi]

Thanks for your input fellahs,

I am aware that gasoline may have infiltrated the business end of the power plant. The bike won't be cranked again until the oil has been drained and fresh added, even though I just got done doing that So much for the valvoline 4-stroke 10w-40 for 3.95 a quart at Checkers. Still, I'm not risking damage to the mill over 15.00 worth of oil. After the petcocks have been repaired, all fuel lines replaced, floats checked for proper operation, (that one makes me a little queasy, please be on the look-out for my posts requiring further assistance) and the new boots installed, I'll refill the case and see what page I'm on.

By the way.....I used to fly a 1954 Cessna 180. It actually had an oil dilution system which injected gasoline into the crank-case to make the engine crank easier in arctic climes. The book said that "as the engine warms, the gasoline will evaporate and the oil will return to its proper viscosity." I chose an engine heater instead, but have you ever heard of such a thing in or on any other machines.? I wonder if the same principles apply in 2004? Anyhoooo, like I said I'm not willing to take the risk over 15.00 bucks worth of oil.

Oh, and check this out! I traded a 25.06 rifle for the bike. I paid 325 bones for the rifle, If I have to tinker with it all summer, I STILL WIN, because it will be running, and running right! I have always loved these bikes, and still cant believe I own one.

[Winterhawk]

Good trade. A rifle for an XS 1100. Lets see a pic

[Materi]

The rifle or the bike? just kidding, I should have a pic here by this time tomorrow night. I am not sure about the brand, but here is the low-down on the petcock kit;

Item Name: Fuel Petcock Repair Kit (Stock No.:+18-5100)
Item Amount: $22.50 USD

from Sirius Consolidated Inc. Any experiences with this particular item?

Thanks again,

Keith

[John]

At least you can use the bike almost anywhere.