SG left front caliper bleed problem

[DeanR]

I'm pretty sure the problem is at the splitter. Don't see any other possibility.

I have duplicate (OEM) front brake parts sitting here on the workbench.
Russell SS lines have been on the bike for years and always worked great. I installed em without a hitch.

When the double banjo bolt is tightened, do the offset holes in the bolt automatically line up with the holes in the banjo fittings? ( in the Y fashion due to the lines heading in different directions)

I am noticing that the Russell fittings are a little thicker that OEM, but have always worked fine.

Is the double banjo a 14mm head? Just checking on that because I have another double banjo bolt here with a 12 mm head. (and the fluid holes are not offset like the current one, but one right above the other as in Bob's picture, (which looks just like mine otherwise))

I notice on the fiche that the R fitting is mounted above the L one, but that does not seem correct and the reverse of what mine has always been. Bob's looks like mine, left above right, but I have the double bolt with OFFSET holes.

I'd attach some pictures like I always used to, but .....

[Ranger_xs1100]

Dean,
My OEM double holed banjo bolt has a 12mm head which is the same size as all of the other banjo bolts on my bike.

[DAVINCI]

Crush washers too thick, offsetting the holes in relation to the banjo? Copper washers can be had in all sorts of thicknesses but true crush washers are pretty darn thin, in my experience.

[DeanR]

So,

Which is the proper double banjo bolt. The one with the holes in line as in Bob's picture, or the one with offset holes that has been on my bike?

If it's the one like Bob's, how would the inline holes (one above the other) line up correctly with the two banjo fittings which go off in different directions to the L and R calipers?

[bikerphil]

First of all, the clock position of the holes is not important, it is the depth of the holes in relation to the bolt head that matters. As long as the holes fall within the center area of the banjo fitting with the washers in their proper place is what is needed. Try either bolt with the washers and fittings without threading into the splitter and see if they fall in the center and not obstructed by the washer.

[DeanR]

These bolts came off my two bikes, both believed to be original, but are completely different.

I hear what you're saying Phil. Sounds like either one will work as long as the washers are correct, being the only variable.

Which one are people familiar with on their bike?

(Finally coaxed photobucket to work)

(

[bikerphil]

The one on the right with the 12MM hex is the OEM type, the left one with the 14MM hex looks like a replacement, not original. If you have a small ruler, you can determine which one lines up better with the center of the banjos.

[DeanR]

OEM banjo fittings 8 mm thick
Russell SS fittings 10 mm thick
1 mm difference in hole hole span in the two different bolts.

The upper hole in either bolt doesn't appear to line up with the center of the Russell banjo, and implies that that is the problem. The washer does not block, but the holes are not centered.
I don't get it though, because the Russell lines are what have been on the bike for a long time, with the (apparently non OEM bolt) and worked.
Maybe I'll put the two OEM brake lines with the OEM bolt back on and see what happens.
and,
buy a few gallons of brake fluid!

[DiverRay]

It looks like the non OEM bolt should work, with THIN copper washers. Look how thick the washer is on the OEM bolt. Measure the 10mm banjo bolt, add 2 thick washers, and the holes will not line up. See if you can find some thin crush washers and try them. You may need to go with aluminum washers instead of copper.

[Radioguylogs]

Look how thick the washer is on the OEM bolt.

Maybe that's the bolt flange?

[DeanR]

Put some new OEM rubber lines on ... same problem. Injecting brake fluid up, from the bleeder, it goes pretty much nowhere. As discussed, it will not bleed normally either.

Disconnected the line from the caliper and let it hang into a bottle. Filled the master cylinder.
Fluid is gradually making it's way all the way down into the bottle by gravity.

I guess this eliminates any blockage in the lines/fittings and points to a problem with the caliper. Don't know what that might be because it is clean as a whistle?

Suppose I'll put a different caliper on?

[DiverRay]

Are you sure the bleeder valve is clear? I've had a few with the hole in the bleeder blocked, but it looks good. Pull the valve all the way out and make sure you can see through the center hole. The end in the caliper is cross drilled, so just look for the light. If it's blocked, use a small drill bit to clean it out by hand.

[DeanR]

It's clear Ray. Blew it out with compressed air to be sure.

I'm glad this is not my daily driver, so I can mess with it at my leisure. It's still a pain the butt though.

[DeanR]

Different caliper going on. All passages clear and clean.

But where the heck does this big thick washer go? Pretty sure it's from this bike but possibly not. It was in the box (of XS front brake parts).
Between the caliper and the fork mounting surface perhaps?
It's not present on the other side but there is another one in the box.

[BillyRok]

I believe it's # 11/23 in the diagram of the SG front caliper...this is from Partzilla.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ya...-brake-caliper