78E Exhaust rebuild

[dbbrian]

I haven't found much on a search for rebuilding the exhaust.

Here is why I ask:

soot stains on the #3 pipe connection. There are gaskets (item 12 on the parts diagram).

small holes on the underside at the tail end of the pipes to fix.

Desire to drop the oil pan and clean out crud and exhaust is in the way.

No desire to mess with the header hex nuts if not required.

Anyone taken the pipes off at those 4 connectors, replaced gaskets and re-installed leaving headers in place?

Brian

[IanDMacDonald]

Can't. 2 of the 4 pipes are connected to the mufflers.

[dbbrian]

oh...

I saw 4 clamps an assumed they were clamping a connection on all 4 headers

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[dbbrian]

https://imgur.com/uiu29pt

[IanDMacDonald]

Interesting. Makes me want to look under mine. I gotta swap my exhaust out soon. Both sides have rotted out again. Got another set off an '80' G in a box.

[dbbrian]

parts diagram doesn't show 4 - should have cheked.

So 2 clamps are probably added on my bike.

[MPittma100]

Exhaust

Brian,

Have only seen two clamps. Normally the two inside pipes are clamped/removable. The two outside pipes are normally welded to the mufflers.
Whatever your situation is appears to be non OEM. Best way to replace gaskets is to remove entire exhaust. Can clean underneath bike and exhaust easier with it removed.

[dbbrian]

Thanks Mike.

Definately needs cleaning!

Brian

[kboehringer]

Good ideas......

Desire to drop the oil pan and clean out crud and exhaust is in the way.

This is something (I believe) everyone should do. Unlike others, I personally prefer to use the paper gaskets (just a personal preference).

There is a guy on Evil-bay that sells an ENTIRE GASKET SET for the XS1100 that is about the same cost as one gasket from Yamaha and includes (head, cylinder base, valve cover, all side covers, EXHAUST GASKETS (you will need if you pull the pipes), valve seals, and a few other small items. Even if you don't need much of that stuff today it's only about $80 (?) and can be stored until later.

No desire to mess with the header hex nuts if not required.
Brian

Personally, I use a product call Aero Kroil Oil (by KANO labs) in a bright orange can on these. Hard to find in the stores but SOME of the ACE Hardware stores have it, I get mine from AMAZON. I've tried PB Blaster with mixed results...… Nothing in my opinion works as well as Aero Kroil Oil. Soak those suckers with that and they'll come right off.

KURT

[motoman]

+1 on use of Kroil on threads prior to removal!

[Radioguylogs]

parts diagram doesn't show 4 - should have cheked.

So 2 clamps are probably added on my bike.

It may be confusing because the clamps on the two outside pipes only secure the decorative heat shield.

[dbbrian]

+1 on use of Kroil on threads prior to removal!

Went searching for Kroil, not common in Canada.

Some info from a Canadian forum that I found - no idea if its valid, just cut and pasted:

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective

test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this

one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

[andreashweiss]

78e stock exhaust

I still have two complete stock factory exhaust systems both from 78e, pickup at shop door price in Cdn dollars $100 and $500. Not interested in arranging shipping, cash at shop door, osoyooos, bc. Home number is 250 495 344five. Both sets are original with heat shields intact. The $100 has had an excellent repair on both rear cans. The $500 set is just so much nicer. thanx andreas

[DiverRay]

I've been using the "homebrew" for a few years now. I keep it in an ALL METAL oil can purchased years ago. Works great for me. The only bolts I had problems with were the head studs. I had to go with a MAP gas torch to heat the cases up so I could remove them.

[MPittma100]

Aftermarket Exhaust

parts diagram doesn't show 4 - should have cheked.

So 2 clamps are probably added on my bike.

Brian, some or maybe all of the aftermarket exhausts were configured for the mufflers to slip on/off. Thus, four separate header pipes. After a number of years assembled, it normally requires oxy/acetylene heat to separate them.