my 1980 XS11 Sp. leaks oil worst than ANY Harley...

[UncleSpot]

I screwed up and overfilled the engine oil... it smoked badly, I changed it, and used the correct amount when refilling...
Now whenever the bike is sitting it leaks oil, when it's ideling it 'pours' oil, and when it's running it lays down a 'slick'...
I hope I didn't screw things up too badly... I like this bike better than my previous 7 Harleys, 4 Beemers, and 1 Guzzi - I like it's excelleration, handling, and even it's looks. It's got 4-into-one with a Kerker ('even like the sound; sorta like a '60s sports car)
...anyway, 'got a shop manual on it's way - so THIS time I can do some reading (and thinking) BEFORE I screw something else up...

...so, my question is: where's a good place to start troubleshooting an oil problem? I've never owned a 4 cyl.engine/carb bike, and definitely nothing THIS fast... ;-)

[ratbyk]

Oil Leak-Smoke

Suggest that you place on center stand and look at the oil sight hole on right side near kick start. Make sure that you are not overfull. Specs call for 3 liters. How much oil have you put in?
If level is OK but still smokes possibly some of the oil overfill is still in the exhaust burning off.
If oil level is OK but still leaking you will have to physically trace down the leaks and then determine how to affect repairs.
Ken/Sooke

[strom]

Check the oil lead behind the cyls, check both oil seals on the crankshaft, if it's smoking, check valve oil seals, broken piston rings, ....

LP

PS: Also check airbox and the engine case vent hose.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey fellas, ya missed a spot!!

Aside from the main seal, which I would doubt got blown, don't forget to check the cam tensioner plug, sits in front of engine between cyls 2 and 3. That rubber gets old, hardened, and could have gotten blown loose or even completely out!!

You definitely need to read the tech tips about doing the cam chain tensioner adjustment BEFORE you remove the tensioner to repair or replace that plug, many ways to fix it without having to get the OEM plug from Yamaha, do a search. That's my bet!
T.C.

[Jerry]

If this began happening after an oil filter/oil change, two places to check. One is the "O-ring" at the top of the oil filter housing. New rings don't always set in the groove well, and get pinched between the crankcase and oil filter housing. When the engine is running and oil is under pressure oil leaks past the ring.

The other item to check is the oil drain plug. There is a gasket behind it, part number 214-11198-01-00. Possible that something similar occures when the engine is running or the oil gets hot...it leaks past a missing or damaged seal. I replace this metal gaset (small metal ring) about every 3rd oil change just to make sure of a good seal.

From your description I would guess the O-ring needs to be checked. Not likely the drain plug, but you never know and you might as well check. You do not have to drain the oil to check the o-ring (remove the oil filter) but you will loose a couple cups of oil and will need to add some to bring the oil level back up to spec.

I have a leaking base gasket, recently tried Car Quest's Purple Cleaner (didn't have Simple Green) and it did a good job of removing the grime. Instructions are to spray it on, let set, then hose off. Warning on the can says to not let it dry on aluminum parts (amoung other things) and it seems to work as advertised. Price was just under $5.00 for about a quart spray bottle.

[John]

If you should find the O ring to be leaking, one way to keep the new one in position while tightening is to smear it in bearing grease. Be generous, it won't hurt anything and will keep that pesky O ring 'in the groove', man.

[skids]

Another thing to do is to take the new one out of the box and warm it in hot water to relax it. Then fix it in place with grease, like you said. I don't know why thay have to wad up those darned things at the factory!!!

Originally posted by John
If you should find the O ring to be leaking, one way to keep the new one in position while tightening is to smear it in bearing grease. Be generous, it won't hurt anything and will keep that pesky O ring 'in the groove', man.

[John]

Warming the O ring is a good idea. It should lay flat when relaxed. I think they get crammed in the box because where ever they are packaged (sweat shop?) the workers have to meet a production goal so they can collect their $5 a day salary.
One thing I have done is to istall a drain plug in the oil filter cup. That eliminated a BIG MESS when changing the oil.

[TopCatGr58]

Another option would be to install the Spin-on Oil filter adapter plate (Shameless Plug) that I am putting back into production!
Drop me a PM if you or anybody else is interested!
T.C.

[UncleSpot]

Another option would be to install the Spin-on Oil filter adapter plate (Shameless Plug) that I am putting back into production!

THIS would be great, but the exhaust system is a 4-into-1 w/Kerker and the way the pipes are layed out it doesn't look like there's enough room for a spin-on *if* it hung down any further than the stock housing...

'finally got a Clymer shop manual off eBay and have been reading *everything* I can about the oil system, specs, etc...
What I found so far: with fresh oil the oil level window can be 'read' - even though this bike didn't have a center stand when I got it (probably taken off when the 4-into-one system was installed - THAT is another question; there's hardly ANY back pressure in the exhaust sys. when you release the throttle - does the stock 2-into-one-on-ea-side produce THIS much power/torque? It would be nice to be a *little* quieter when you back off the gas... and the Kerker gives the 'shorty/cherry bomb/glass-pack' 'rap-a-dap-dap'/non-stock sound that *really* attracts the local police here...)
...does the oil fill cap *suppose to have* a 'dip-stick' attached to it? ...just wondering since you *do* have the oil level window...
-the drain plug was pulled to change the oil, but it is *not* leaking any oil out of that area...
-the oil filter housing is not leaking either - was removed, new filter installed (with new o-ring, greased to remain in place - thanks for the tip!)
-the chain oiler adj. on the front of the engine does leak, but only a few drops every day - is this normal for an engine with 41K on it?
-'had the air filter out - blew it out with an air compressor, and it was pretty clean... no oil on it... someone suggested it *may* have oil on it(?) ...how?? (just curious, and want to learn *how*)

-where the oil *IS* coming from... there are some oil lines near the back of the engine that are always 'damp' with oil... but I don't see any 'dripping', 'pouring', etc... but I *always* notice about 10-75 mL of oil under the bike near the back of the engine (almost right under the gear shifter/footpeg right in the middle...)
...I *do* wear glasses, but maybe I'm going 'blind'(?) I can *not* see where it's coming from (yet)...

...'spend about 15 min. every day before I ride the bike to my shop (22 miles) looking *everything* over (old habit from owning a '51 and a '53 Harley for 33 years...) and if *anything* (other than a minor oil leak) was out of the ordinary I'd take the truck...

...had I known what this bike was capable of back in 1979/1980 I would've bought one new and sold the Harleys then... ...and the best part was the price: $350! I can't believe there were still bargains like this out there... 8-)

...so the search for the 'oil leak' goes on... I'll be spending quite a bit of time 'under' the bike this week, and taking it apart over the 4th-of-July weekend so maybe I'll discover something I haven't seen yet (?)... 'gonna change the oil/filter/gaskets again.
Thanks for *ALL* the tips, insights, and suggestions - this is a great 'info-board' on a great (over-looked) motorcycle!

[Jerry]

Stock air filter is not oiled. Some replacements, such as those from K&N, may be oiled. If your filter carries a Yamaha part number and is dry don't oil it.

Another place to check for an oil leak is around the fill plug, which does not have a dipstick on it. There should be an o-ring above the threads. Yamaha part number for this ring is 93210-27370-00. If leaking here the oil will drip down and collect under the right footpeg. If a previous owner (po) replaced the fill plug, the replacement does not come with the ring. Don't ask me how I know.

Checking oil on the sidestand isn't accurate. If you fill to the top mark of the oil window, you will overfill the crankcase by about 1.5 - 2 cups.

Cam chain adjuster plug will drip a bit. Replacement plug number is 90338-14004-00 and is available from Yamaha last I checked. Put the new one in using a sealer such as RTV to keep the plug in and seal it for cleaner operation.

[Jacobite]

The reason your air filter could have oil in it is the vent hose from the crankcase to the air box. The PO of my bike overfilled it, and the air filter was dripping with oil.

[Ken Talbot]

Very often, oil that looks like it is leaking out somewhere on the back side of the cylinders is in fact originating from the cam cover gasket and/or the cam chein tensioner. With the tank off, you can see how there are a number of drain passages to let water, oil, etc drain away from the top of the motor. Looking at the front side of the cylinders, sort of next to the tensioner, you will also see some passages that lead through the cylinders. The passages allow oil leaking from the tensioner to be blown through to the rear while you are riding. It may look like you're only losing a drop or two when the bike is sitting still. All of those drops are still coming out, and probably at a higher rate, when you have the engine at operating RPMs. The oil gets blasted through the passages and you end up thinking you've got a loaking base gasket because the oil is collecting on the top of the crankcase.