installed my new 4 to 1 exhaust, and having some leaking...

[ERM83]

I spent a literal entire day off from work putting this on, changing plugs, general maintenance, etc. Started it up with fingers crossed (EVERY TIME I do a fix with this thing, I end up with a snag somewhere...still learning!), and I definitely have a leak on cyl #4. I can feel a bit of air coming out by the fins on the right side. It also SOUNDS like there's leaks on #1&2, but I cannot feel any air at ALL leaking out of those ports. also checked #3...same. I dunno if i'm just hearing the #4 or am crazy / just plain stupid.

I definitely put in new crush gaskets on all of them...definitely didn't over/ under-tighten them. I was SO PSYCHED to get out on this thing tonight...now I don't know what to do.

Copper exhaust sealant on the crush gaskets?? or double up on them?? Is that possible??


Eric

[bikerphil]

Did you remove the old gaskets first? They are hard to see and somtimes they look just like the aluminium of the head.

[motoman]

I spent a literal entire day off from work putting this on, changing plugs, general maintenance, etc. Started it up with fingers crossed (EVERY TIME I do a fix with this thing, I end up with a snag somewhere...still learning!), and I definitely have a leak on cyl #4. I can feel a bit of air coming out by the fins on the right side. It also SOUNDS like there's leaks on #1&2, but I cannot feel any air at ALL leaking out of those ports. also checked #3...same. I dunno if i'm just hearing the #4 or am crazy / just plain stupid.

I definitely put in new crush gaskets on all of them...definitely didn't over/ under-tighten them. I was SO PSYCHED to get out on this thing tonight...now I don't know what to do.

Copper exhaust sealant on the crush gaskets?? or double up on them?? Is that possible??


Eric

Neither of the above. A film of either High Temp Red or High Temp Grey does the trick, plus it holds gaskets in place while installing header pipes. +1 what bikerphil stated.

[ERM83]

Did you remove the old gaskets first? They are hard to see and somtimes they look just like the aluminium of the head.

Yep...definitely took the old ones out.

Neither of the above. A film of either High Temp Red or High Temp Grey does the trick, plus it holds gaskets in place while installing header pipes. +1 what bikerphil stated.

So, put the high temp in between the gasket and head?? both sides?? Number 4 is the one that is VERY audible. I'm still worried about the other pipes...because I don't feel a single bit of air coming out of them. Just the sound that they make at the header??

Also, am I going to have to get new crush gaskets if I take this off again tomorrow??

[bikerphil]

Make sure the nuts aren't bottoming out on the studs and preventing complete tightening, if they are, add a washer or two between the flange and the nut. You can reuse the gaskets several times, no need to put new ones each time.

[skids]

Yep...definitely took the old ones out.



So, put the high temp in between the gasket and head?? both sides?? Number 4 is the one that is VERY audible. I'm still worried about the other pipes...because I don't feel a single bit of air coming out of them. Just the sound that they make at the header??

Also, am I going to have to get new crush gaskets if I take this off again tomorrow??

I never used anything besides the crush gaskets. Some of the headers are not well made as is obvious with the distances from the head pipes to the headers. You might have to just tighten down No. 4 a little more. The other problem might be the angle of the finished head pipe, not being flush with the head. It is possible that you might need an additional crush gasket there.

[ERM83]

so if i'm not feeling air coming out of the other ports...I'm good on those?? They're all pretty tight...I DON'T think they're bottoming out at all...they all look the same on the stud. Number 4, though...PREEEEETTY sketched out on tightening them anymore.

Gonna try some washers to see if that'll work out for meI'm leaning towards the high temp stuff...it would be the 4th time taking them off if I had to do it again after this time.

I'll check and see if I might possibly be able to double up on the #4 gasket, but just lemme know what the best plan of action you think I should take! My brain is FRIED from working on this all day...taking a break/having a beer!

Eric

[MaximPhil]

Hi ERM83,
Getting all 4 of the headers to line up and sit flush before tightening is a real challenge. You may just need to loosen it a bit and re-seat everything.
Good luck
Phil

[ERM83]

Uuuuhhhhh, hol-e-$%&@...

NONE of those gaskets crushed. I REALLY had the tight as well, to the point where I thought I was going to break the studs. I guess I didn't line it up right??

[skids]

NONE of those gaskets crushed. I REALLY had the tight as well, to the point where I thought I was going to break the studs. I guess I didn't line it up right??

OK, you are working on a special I guess, because SG and SF are in your signature space. You are also installing a 4 into 1 which is not OEM. I assume this it the first install attempt? I can tell you that specials and standards have different flanges for the pipes to connect to the heads. I think when I bought 4-1 Jardines, they gave me 4 flange adapters. If I remember correctly, I didn’t need them for the standard. What they do is slip over the pipes to extend the distance between the flange and the head and they contact the crush gaskets. I hope I am steering you right, it was a LONG time ago when the Jardine was installed. I don’t know why Yamaha changed the distances, but I suspect it had something to do with the mounts on the frame...

[ERM83]

OK, you are working on a special I guess, because SG and SF are in your signature space. You are also installing a 4 into 1 which is not OEM. I assume this it the first install attempt? I can tell you that specials and standards have different flanges for the pipes to connect to the heads. I think when I bought 4-1 Jardines, they gave me 4 flange adapters. If I remember correctly, I didn’t need them for the standard. What they do is slip over the pipes to extend the distance between the flange and the head and they contact the crush gaskets. I hope I am steering you right, it was a LONG time ago when the Jardine was installed. I don’t know why Yamaha changed the distances, but I suspect it had something to do with the mounts on the frame...

My bike came with a MAC system, and all of the flange connections are the same...length, and everything. It only had one gasket in each port when I took the old exhaust off!

I just tried to REALLY METICULOUSLY seat everything perfectly. If this doesn't work, then I'm at a complete loss. Taking a break (OUCH, MY BACK ), then crossing my fingers while starting it...

Eric

[skids]

My bike came with a MAC system, and all of the flange connections are the same...length, and everything. It only had one gasket in each port when I took the old exhaust off!

I just tried to REALLY METICULOUSLY seat everything perfectly. If this doesn't work, then I'm at a complete loss. Taking a break (OUCH, MY BACK ), then crossing my fingers while starting it...

Eric

Yeah, I know your pain! So the Mac header was previously installed and did not leak, right? See how they line up without ruining crush gaskets. You might find that No.4 has more of a gap than 1-3. Did I understand that NONE of the crush gaskets were compressed? Manufacuring leaves a lot to be desired. Let us know how you get it resolved... Sorry I can’t help further. I have never had Mac’s on a special.

[bikerphil]

It is best to mount the header first and tighten it up completely and then attach the rear section of the exhaust.

[ERM83]

It is best to mount the header first and tighten it up completely and then attach the rear section of the exhaust.

Did this, for sure.

sounds A LITTLE BIT better, but yup...still have a leak on #1, and i'm pretty sure the pipes have the tiniest bit of space between the gaskets. the only thing I think is possible at this point is doubling up gaskets. I don't think washers would work on the studs...

I have NO IDEA what the problem is, and I'm furious.

[bikerphil]

Well, only two things would prevent the gasket to be compressed. First, the nuts are bottoming out on the studs. I assume you have those factory type nuts that require an Allen wrench to tighten. Those will bottom out. Second, the flange is contacting the head itself preventing the gasket compression. This should be visible when looking closely.

Why do you say a washer wouldn't work behind the nuts? It would certainly prevent the nuts from bottoming on the stud.