Coils and plug wires

[skids]

Well, I bit the bullet and installed the Dyna coils (and bypassed the ballast resistor). Installed them on the turquoise 78E, aka "Cherry." Mounting them was a challenge.

I also bought and installed used Honda VF coils on my other 78E aka the "Beast." These were indeed plug-and-play as Motorman said, but they are 3 ohm primaries, so I bypassed the ballast resistor. I had Accel metal core, 7.5 mm wires for spark, so it got a new set.

It is nice to have the ability of replacing the plug wires. The old coils were working fine, but I wanted to eliminate possible shorting in the rain. Guess what...it rained last night and Cherry was shorting out when not in neutral. This is a real pisser! I think I will separate the neutral wire from the loom when I feel up to it.

[motoman]

Good to hear you good the coils mounted and working fine Sid. Process of elimination CAN be a frustrating process.

[skids]

Good to hear you good the coils mounted and working fine Sid. Process of elimination CAN be a frustrating process.

Yeah, I already separated the connections of the ignition circuit from the higher amperage wires that were at the clip behind the fuse panel. I really don't want to see the neutral light on in every gear by grounding the neutral switch -- that would drive me nuts! I am going to get some heat resistant loom and take that neutral wire away from the pulser wires. I heard that the pulser wires are spiced in there as well and I will be checking the damned insulation at those splices.

[bikerphil]

I've found the water finds it's way up to the P/U coil/neutral wire connector behind the fuse panel and that is where the short occurs. I wrap that connector good with electrical tape. Some prefer dielectric grease in there instead.

[skids]

I've found the water finds it's way up to the P/U coil/neutral wire connector behind the fuse panel and that is where the short occurs. I wrap that connector good with electrical tape. Some prefer dielectric grease in there instead.

I have separated the sky-blue wire from the connector there. I saw that you had responded to "Barnfresh" post, "Won't run when wet, Dies when put in gear - Solution". I also saw that his neutral light was on all the time (grounded elsewhere). I suppose I will revisit the connector and try to waterproof it for the remaining wires as you suggested. It is just so damned tight in there...

I saw on the European(?) xs11 website that someone has traced the problem to the loom containing both the neutral switch wire and the pickup coil wires. Someone there showed a picture where they isolated the nuisance neutral wire into its own loom. Someone at xscamp told me that there are splices for the pickup wires within the loom that are likely exposed. I dread cutting the oem loom open. I have seen 1/4 inch looms that are woven heat-resistant (not waterproof) that are "self closing" along the side. I am thinking about that.

Can you tell that I am obsessing???

[bikerphil]

As for accessing the connector, remove the upper positive wire from the solenoid and remove the 3 screws from the fuse block backing plate. You should be able to swing the plate up out of the way to easily access the connectors. The loom down by the neutral switch can be taped up at the break where the neutral wire enters.

[3Phase]

Skids,

On some of the bikes, the fine folks at Yamaha used bare steel butt-splice connectors at staggered distances to splice the pick-up coil wires to the harness wires that go to the connector, then up to the TCI.

If the nylon sheath isn't too badly hardened, you can slide it away from the pick-up coils and get to the splices without cutting the sheath. That self-amalgamating tape like the F4 tape that JetMech Marty uses will seal the splices without too much drama.

The Orange, White, and Blue pick-up coil wires are almost totally heat-proof but the harness wires are not and the insulation will harden, then crack. If that happens, sealing the splices won't work and you may have to replace the wires from the splices to the connector.

[skids]

Skids,

On some of the bikes, the fine folks at Yamaha used bare steel butt-splice connectors at staggered distances to splice the pick-up coil wires to the harness wires that go to the connector, then up to the TCI.

If the nylon sheath isn't too badly hardened, you can slide it away from the pick-up coils and get to the splices without cutting the sheath. That self-amalgamating tape like the F4 tape that JetMech Marty uses will seal the splices without too much drama.

The Orange, White, and Blue pick-up coil wires are almost totally heat-proof but the harness wires are not and the insulation will harden, then crack. If that happens, sealing the splices won't work and you may have to replace the wires from the splices to the connector.

Thanks Scott.