Bad news, Good news

[mack]

Well when I was out for a ride on the long weekend, I was well up north when the main ignition went dead after stopping for a rest. Nothing no lights or spark when I turned the key. Traced it to a fried connector in the headlight bucket. But we were in a town and it was 50C in the shade so rather than leave a safe environment I elected to have it trailered home. Replaced the connector and all is good electrically. Took him out for a test run and noticed the handle bars are not in line with the front wheel anymore. We hit a few bad bumps coming home and had to stop and retighten the straps a couple times. I didn't have a wheel chalk in my trailer and had turned the front wheel and locked it before strapping it down. Soooo. Now I have to pull the front end off and see what happened. The good news is that the Tank for the SF is pretty clean inside now and I will have it on the road while I tear into the front end of the E.

[DiverRay]

You probably just need to loosen the triple clamp bolts, axle, and fender bolts. Then align the forks and handlebars and work your way down tightening again.
Transporting a bike you should NEVER lock the front forks, or put it on the centerstand!

[mack]

was

on the center stand. Going to leave the bottom end and tkat fork brace in place on the tear down and see what happens when/ if I relieve the pressure and lift off the top of the triple tree. can't imagine the lower tree post bent. Priority right now is on the SF. Got my first clean flush in three months yesterday but spent today on the dull end of a chainsaw. I will flush the tank again tomorrow and if it comes up roses then I'll hook the tank up and tune him. He's always been my fav so right now, a big smile will take me a long way. Thanx Ray, may have learned a very expensive lesson.

[mack]

Diver Ray

Ray you were right. I pulled the front end off this morning and rolled the uppers on my jointer table and sure enough the uppers cupped. Not a lot but enough. The triple tree and yoke appear to be intact. It's hard to get an accurate measurement with the bike stripped down but the tree operates smoothly and just centering the controls and measuring to the cross brace above the tool box indicates that it hasn't twisted. Now I'm looking for a pair of standard uppers. Lesson learned. Also going to buy a wheel chalk for the little trailer.

[DiverRay]

Even if you don't have a chock, just put the front wheel against the front of the bed and pull the bike into it. I usually start with the bike on the side stand, put the left strap on loose, then lift the bike upright with the right strap. You do NOT need to compress the forks all the way, about 1/3 to 1/2 is good, then put one strap over the seat to keep the rear of the bike in place.
I had my MNS in a trailer behind a car for about 2,500 miles on a road trip a few years ago, and never had any problems with it.

[motoman]

Even if you don't have a chock, just put the front wheel against the front of the bed and pull the bike into it. I usually start with the bike on the side stand, put the left strap on loose, then lift the bike upright with the right strap. You do NOT need to compress the forks all the way, about 1/3 to 1/2 is good, then put one strap over the seat to keep the rear of the bike in place.
I had my MNS in a trailer behind a car for about 2,500 miles on a road trip a few years ago, and never had any problems with it.

…..and was a red trailer with the official factory name on side of it.....Red Wagon just like the little red wagon pulled around by youngsters back in the day, and even had the red side racks just like the toy one.

[XJkid]

You probably just need to loosen the triple clamp bolts, axle, and fender bolts. Then align the forks and handlebars and work your way down tightening again.
Transporting a bike you should NEVER lock the front forks, or put it on the centerstand!

Why should you never put it on the centerstand when transporting?

[DiverRay]

Why should you never put it on the centerstand when transporting?

Because the centerstand is for parking. The frame WILL crack at the mounting points if you transport on a centerstand. Frame is designed to take the loads through the axles, not the center of the frame.
Try to look up how the companies that transport bikes secure them. That is also why you do not compress the forks all the way. You want a little "give" as the unit goes over our fine roads.

[Schming]

Standard uppers

Ray you were right. I pulled the front end off this morning and rolled the uppers on my jointer table and sure enough the uppers cupped. Not a lot but enough. The triple tree and yoke appear to be intact. It's hard to get an accurate measurement with the bike stripped down but the tree operates smoothly and just centering the controls and measuring to the cross brace above the tool box indicates that it hasn't twisted. Now I'm looking for a pair of standard uppers. Lesson learned. Also going to buy a wheel chalk for the little trailer.

I think I have a set in the garage Mack, I'll check tonight.

I'll let ya know asap.

P.S. HF has a decent wheel chock for the trailer

[Schming]

Not so good news, I have a set of Standard forks that the uppers are scuffed badly and one looks like someone used a pipe wrench on or vise marks.

[skids]

Because the centerstand is for parking. The frame WILL crack at the mounting points if you transport on a centerstand. Frame is designed to take the loads through the axles, not the center of the frame.
Try to look up how the companies that transport bikes secure them. That is also why you do not compress the forks all the way. You want a little "give" as the unit goes over our fine roads.

You want to ensure that the bottom can not "walk" to the side and dump the bike over. What I am saying is, don't just depend on strapping the top frame.

[mack]

Well

I have a large dedicated motorcycle trailer fully equipped but my brother in law brought the little garbage trailer that lacked proper tie down gromets. I put it on the center stand and strapped it down as good as I could to keep it from flipped out of the trailer. Frankly a set of bent uppers is not as bad as watching the whole bike landing on it's side and skidding to a stop on the asphalt behind me.

[MaximPhil]

Mack,
Priness Auto puts the bike wheel chocks on sale from time to time. They have 2 styles.
Phil

[mack]

Hi Phil

Last time I went to the bike show, I bought a wheel chaulk. Just didn't install it in the garbage trailer!

[Jerry]

+1 on Ray's approach. I have trailered bikes between states and from western Colorado to upper Michigan (1,200 plus miles each way) with no problems. Only recently have I used a wheel chock, whose primary function is to keep the from wheel from "wandering" during the trip. Also helps hold the bike upright while you strap it. Before the chock I strapped the front wheel as well as the forks.

I compress the front and rear suspension about the same as the "sag" when I sit on the bike, roughly a third of the suspension travel.


Ready to hit the road for the 2015 Upper Michigan rally. Note that neither center stand or side stand has been used to support the bike.

Six straps, two on front, two on rear frame, two higher up on grab bars. Higher straps compress the suspension and lower straps keep the rear wheel from wandering. This technique has worked well for me over the years.