LD trip prep: snap crackle pop

[sethhope]

So those of you who were at XSNE, you heard my bike pops pretty bad on idle. It doesnt appear to be running lean, so I'm not really concerned about damage, and it only does it on idle.
That said, Id like to eliminate it if i can before my trip. Ive tried the idle mixture screws, and no apparent change. My screws aren't broken, as was my first assumption. My diaphrams and seals are all new, my carbs are synced and the float heights are set. Carbs are SPOTLESS inside. Did a triple clean before XSNE. Is there something stupid im missing? If not, is there an xsive carb guru i can call upon nearby?

[Bartman]

I had taken my standard exhaust off a few years back because the left side was starting to rip. Put a 4 into 1 on it and the bike started popping too. I knew that it was from an air leak around the exhaust.

A few months ago I found a bicycle maker in Athens Ga. that does some very good welding and he put some new Stainless Steel skins around the torn left muffler. It is under the bag and close to the ground so I could care less if it was perfect. But I preferred the running of the original exhaust. So when my son wanted the bike to ride while in Kentucky, I put the repaired exhaust back on the bike and pulled the old gaskets out and put new ones on it. All is smooth and quite now!

[Schming]

Seth, if all else mentioned is spot on and your plugs are the correct color, which from the way it ran at XSNE it is, then like Bartman, I'd check for an air leak somewhere along the exhaust.

Also before any LD trip One should read XS Eleven Heaven to set the mood

[sethhope]

Seth, if all else mentioned is spot on and your plugs are the correct color, which from the way it ran at XSNE it is, then like Bartman, I'd check for an air leak somewhere along the exhaust.

Also before any LD trip One should read XS Eleven Heaven to set the mood

I need to get me a copy!
As for air leaks, i didnt realize that would cause popping! I have a nasty leak around my #2 due to the PO inproperly drilling a stud. I have a seal in there but it doesnt fully seat. It whistles as well at higher rpm. Will that cause issues, or should I be ok?

[skids]

The crush gaskets can leak at the head. Also, baffles within the muffs can rot out. In my experiences, poor fuel economy can result from the latter.

[motoman]

I need to get me a copy!
As for air leaks, i didnt realize that would cause popping! I have a nasty leak around my #2 due to the PO inproperly drilling a stud. I have a seal in there but it doesnt fully seat. It whistles as well at higher rpm. Will that cause issues, or should I be ok?

No issues.....just irritating.

[motoman]

So those of you who were at XSNE, you heard my bike pops pretty bad on idle. It doesnt appear to be running lean, so I'm not really concerned about damage, and it only does it on idle.
That said, Id like to eliminate it if i can before my trip. Ive tried the idle mixture screws, and no apparent change. My screws aren't broken, as was my first assumption. My diaphrams and seals are all new, my carbs are synced and the float heights are set. Carbs are SPOTLESS inside. Did a triple clean before XSNE. Is there something stupid im missing? If not, is there an xsive carb guru i can call upon nearby?

Actually, at this point I'd be looking to replace the headers to head gaskets. If that be the case, replace them with new ones. Prior to installing new ones, scrape clean the head inset area and put a thin smear of Permatex High-Temp Grey silicone on area. Besides giving a good seal without overtightening, the high temp silicone holds gaskets in place when re-installing head pipes.

[sethhope]

Actually, at this point I'd be looking to replace the headers to head gaskets. If that be the case, replace them with new ones. Prior to installing new ones, scrape clean the head inset area and put a thin smear of Permatex High-Temp Grey silicone on area. Besides giving a good seal without overtightening, the high temp silicone holds gaskets in place when re-installing head pipes.

I did all of that over the winter of '16-'17 when i had to replace my valves. Its been popping like this since then, but otherwise running fine.

[motoman]

I did all of that over the winter of '16-'17 when i had to replace my valves. Its been popping like this since then, but otherwise running fine.

Well, least it's being consistant.

[Schming]

I did all of that over the winter of '16-'17 when i had to replace my valves. Its been popping like this since then, but otherwise running fine.

Are you certain you removed the old crush gaskets ?

I ask 'cause they can . . well . . crush down to be very thin and be mistaken for the head so without the old ones removed the new will most likely leak.

Also if the header's been leaking that long most likely the leaky gasket is burnt out and will need replaced.
It'd be a good idea to address the reason that it won't seal 'cause you really don't want cold air or water getting to a hot exhaust valve.

[sethhope]

Are you certain you removed the old crush gaskets ?

I ask 'cause they can . . well . . crush down to be very thin and be mistaken for the head so without the old ones removed the new will most likely leak.

Also if the header's been leaking that long most likely the leaky gasket is burnt out and will need replaced.
It'd be a good idea to address the reason that it won't seal 'cause you really don't want cold air or water getting to a hot exhaust valve.

Old gasket is certainly out. When the head came off, i made sure it was spotless and clear. I only wanted to do it once, so i did it right. Youre right, the old gasket is probably burnt out. Ill see about putting a new one in.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Seth,

Your description of Roxy in your Sig doesn't say anything about any electrical mods besides the Fuseblock. If you're running the OEM coils, that along with the weak charging system, and the use of the Ballast Resistor, you may be experiencing the affects of LOW VOLTAGE at idle which can also cause a misfire. Once you get the bike up in RPM, charging system kicks in, makes stronger sparks with coils, and mis goes away when not idling. Motoman will confirm that he cured his low rpm miss with newer Honda VF1000 coils and bypassing BR.

Also if OEM plug caps, what are their resistances...they also can corrode internally and develop very high resistances (much higher than the ~5K usual) and can also contribute to a mis at low RPM/Low Voltage.

T.C.

[sethhope]

Hey Seth,

Your description of Roxy in your Sig doesn't say anything about any electrical mods besides the Fuseblock. If you're running the OEM coils, that along with the weak charging system, and the use of the Ballast Resistor, you may be experiencing the affects of LOW VOLTAGE at idle which can also cause a misfire. Once you get the bike up in RPM, charging system kicks in, makes stronger sparks with coils, and mis goes away when not idling. Motoman will confirm that he cured his low rpm miss with newer Honda VF1000 coils and bypassing BR.

Also if OEM plug caps, what are their resistances...they also can corrode internally and develop very high resistances (much higher than the ~5K usual) and can also contribute to a mis at low RPM/Low Voltage.

T.C.

I should update my sig. I have dyna greens and bypassed ballast resistor. Stock charging system, however. New caps as well.