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  • Valve Cover Gasket Question

    So my Auto Cam Chain Tensioner from an old Venture finally came in. Ive read that it is important when switching tensioners, that you should remove the valve cover to make sure the chain is still on and has not slipped off in the process.
    My question is: If I remove the cover and the gasket is not reusable, can I use RTV hi temp gasket maker as a new gasket when putting it back on? Or do I need to order a new gasket?
    Also when removing the cover, I know there are little half moon rubbers. Do those simply sit into place when I put the cover back on? Or is there a special tool to put them in? Should I order new ones?
    I just want to make sure everything is right and fits up properly. Tips appreciated, Thank you!
    79 SF Special
    80 Special

  • #2
    If it comes off in one piece and isnt too warped, it should be ok. As for high temp gasket maker, id stay way. I had trouble getting it off when it was time to replace.
    No special tools just set it on and tighten down.

    Please read the whole procedure for replacing the tensioner! I didnt and ended up bending almost all my intake valves!
    1979 XS1100F "Roxy" (my first bike ) - '91 Suzuki GSX1100 Fairing, BMW bags, Cheap ABS Trunk, aftermarket cruiser seat, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Heavy Duty folding kickstart, XS11 Special signals and gauges, Blade Fuse Conversion, Dynacoil Greens w/ ballast bypass, SS brake lines

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    • #3
      Those half moons have a small lip that help keep them from blowing outwards (lip to the inside). Clean them up and where they go. Apply a thin amount of RTV Ultra Black around the curve and reinstall. I like to put some at the flat portion just before the gasket goes back on. I would use a valve cover gasket rather than putting a bead of RTV around it. It is too difficult not to smear it into the internals while reinstalling the cover. You can spray a new gasket with Pam cooking spray to help it from sticking next time you remove the cover.

      This is an oppertune time to check valve clearances...

      Make sure that the bike is on the centerstand when you remove the stock tensioner. There have been discussions about whether or not you should be on the C-mark when you remove/replace. It seems to make sense that the T-mark is more appropriate as that is where you check allignment marks. There was some discussion about this... Do a search.
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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      • #4
        Forgot to say I Skipped a step

        BEFORE I MADE THIS THREAD. We removed the old cct (while on the centerstand) and put on the new AACT. Popped it into place and started it up. Nothing sounded bad or out of wack inside. Then we took it out again to properly grind down the bolts so we wouldn’t get oil leaks. We have not put it back in yet, and the bike is now on the side stand. I’m guessing I didn’t bend any valves when I put it on and ran it because everything sounded okay! But this time I’m going to follow procedure and do it right. First time doing anything on the top end so help is appreciated
        79 SF Special
        80 Special

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        • #5
          If you removed the CCT while on the side stand, there is chance to have the chain fall off the crankshaft sprocket.

          Be aware.
          -Mike
          _________
          '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
          '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
          '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
          '79 XS750SF 17k miles
          '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
          '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
          '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

          Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CivilPenny View Post
            BEFORE I MADE THIS THREAD. We removed the old cct (while on the centerstand) and put on the new AACT. Popped it into place and started it up. Nothing sounded bad or out of wack inside. Then we took it out again to properly grind down the bolts so we wouldn’t get oil leaks. We have not put it back in yet, and the bike is now on the side stand. I’m guessing I didn’t bend any valves when I put it on and ran it because everything sounded okay! But this time I’m going to follow procedure and do it right. First time doing anything on the top end so help is appreciated
            Why didn’t you take one bolt out at a time while leaving the CCT in place? Was there such a gap that you needed to reset the tensioner? When finished with the install, I suggest that you hand turn the crank (clockwise) with a 19mm or 3/4in wrench to make sure there is no valve-to-valve contact. You can loosen the spark plugs before you do that...
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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            • #7
              For you and anyone else following this thread, it's not necessary to remove the valve cover. Simply align the "C" on the timing wheel with the pointer (under the left engine cover) just as if you were adjusting the old tensioner.

              This puts tension on the REAR of the chain and will keep it engaged to the teeth of the sprockets while allowing all the slack in the front.

              I've done several and never had one slip.
              Greg

              Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

              ― Albert Einstein

              80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

              The list changes.

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              • #8
                I'm getting ready to do this on one of my bikes. I knew about moving it to C and hand turning the engine as steps but, didn't know what putting it on C does to the chain position. Thanks for that tidbit of detail.
                Owned by a pair of XS11's. An 80 Standard and a 79 Special.

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                • #9
                  It is supposed to put the most slack as possible for the adjustment of the manuel CTT. There has been some discussion as to whether that is necessary with the automatic one because it adjusts itself whenever it can...
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Thumper,

                    Don't you have a manual?? It explains the purpose of the "C" mark. Turning the engine by hand is correct, clockwise from the left side, 2 times around, and then SLOW and STOP at the "C". Do not reverse rotation CCW if you go past, just go around again. As was stated, removing the plugs can help keep the internal cylinder pressure down so it will be easier to turn and stop without the pressure trying to move the crank when letting go.

                    Skids, if someone is replacing the MCCT with the ACCT, it is highly suggested to do it on the "C" mark so that the ACCT has the chance to take up as much slack at the beginning as possible, to help reduce the chance of too much slack occuring allowing chain/sprocket skipping!

                    T.C.
                    T. C. Gresham
                    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                    History shows again and again,
                    How nature points out the folly of men!

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                    • #11
                      I understand the concept and as long as all that slack doesn't fall to the crank sprocket. Can that happen? How did the timing failures happen to others installing the ACCT? I did mine with the C-mark but I didn't have the valve cover off either. It causes some worry!
                      Skids (Sid Hansen)

                      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        skids:
                        How did the timing failures happen to others installing the ACCT? I did mine with the C-mark but I didn't have the valve cover off either. It causes some worry!
                        If you line up the "C" mark, you don't need to worry. If you just pull and replace WITHOUT setting to the "C", then you could have problems.
                        Ray Matteis
                        KE6NHG
                        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                          skids: If you line up the "C" mark, you don't need to worry. If you just pull and replace WITHOUT setting to the "C", then you could have problems.
                          So back to my question, what caused "timing" issues when others installed ACCT's?
                          Skids (Sid Hansen)

                          Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            For me, I noticed my timing chain was getting noisier. Did a few adjustments, but it kept continuing. On my last adjustment the set screw just kept turning, I found out the CCT housing thread was stripped. Slapped on the new ACCT and no more threatening noise.
                            79 SF Special
                            80 Special

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                            • #15
                              Oh boy are you lucky! I stripped a tensioner stopper bolt and it allowed the tensioner to slacken the chain yet held it there. I had to recondition/replace the valves.
                              Skids (Sid Hansen)

                              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                              Comment

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