Hey Gang! I haven't been too active in several months, not since somebody backed over my XJ in a parking lot in SC on my way to the SE Rally last fall. Ended up cutting the trip short and went back to NY. Having a couple issues that need attention so here I am again.
I've noticed a pulsing in the rear brake when I get below 20mph (I know it's the rear because I delinked the XJ brakes), kind of a lurching with each revolution of the wheel. I swapped out the bolt that holds the caliper on in case it got bent somehow but the problem persists. Looking closer I noticed the outside brake pad is not seated flat against the caliper piston, you can see a small gap at the bottom of the piston in this pic...
It almost appears that the brake pads aren't sliding properly on the bolt that goes through them, like they are cocked somehow. Would this cause the pulsing? Replace the pads? (You have to remove the round plastic cap seen in this pic to access the bolt that holds the caliper on, XJ is different from the XS).
Next issue is that I blow the 20 amp fuse each time I turn the turn signals on.
I have taken off the Windjammer and put the OEM headlight and turn signals back on, wasn't blowing fuses with the fairing on. I took meticulous notes when I originally put the fairing on as to how the wires all connected in the headlight bucket so I'm pretty sure they are reconnected properly. Assuming the wires are right, what else might cause the fuse to blow? Is it possible in the circuit to isolate the front signals from the rear to narrow it down?
Lastly is the reoccurring failure of the left side crank seal. I've twice installed
the double lipped seal that trbig recommended. First time I seated it in too far and am sure I plugged the oil drain hole in the bottom of the case. Was more careful the second time, and did coat the outside of the seal each time with Yamabond before install. Here is a pic...
The bottom part of the seal looks a bit "smeared" in the photo from seating it but I don't think that is the issue. In person you can clearly see oil around the crank, and I get a good sized puddle on the ground when I park the bike after running it. I purchased a Speedi Sleeve to try and fix this issue, National part # 99128 for shaft diameter 1.257" - 1.263". Here it is...
Anybody have much experience with these? The directions say to put the flange end of the sleeve on the crank and then use the cup tool to gently tap the sleeve on far enough to cover where the seal will ride on the crank. I'm sure I read on this forum somewhere about somebody using one of these successfully but that they purposely installed the sleeve on backwards. That method would necessitate the removal of the flange after installation in order to install the new seal, look closely at the picture and you will see a cut line around the sleeve near the flange for removing the flange. My concern would be that this would leave a sharp edge that might damage a new seal when trying to install it? I want to make sure I get this right the first time, I think trying to remove the sleeve after installing it might be a chore!
Any and all help and ideas are appreciated, hope you all have wintered well!
I've noticed a pulsing in the rear brake when I get below 20mph (I know it's the rear because I delinked the XJ brakes), kind of a lurching with each revolution of the wheel. I swapped out the bolt that holds the caliper on in case it got bent somehow but the problem persists. Looking closer I noticed the outside brake pad is not seated flat against the caliper piston, you can see a small gap at the bottom of the piston in this pic...
It almost appears that the brake pads aren't sliding properly on the bolt that goes through them, like they are cocked somehow. Would this cause the pulsing? Replace the pads? (You have to remove the round plastic cap seen in this pic to access the bolt that holds the caliper on, XJ is different from the XS).
Next issue is that I blow the 20 amp fuse each time I turn the turn signals on.
I have taken off the Windjammer and put the OEM headlight and turn signals back on, wasn't blowing fuses with the fairing on. I took meticulous notes when I originally put the fairing on as to how the wires all connected in the headlight bucket so I'm pretty sure they are reconnected properly. Assuming the wires are right, what else might cause the fuse to blow? Is it possible in the circuit to isolate the front signals from the rear to narrow it down?
Lastly is the reoccurring failure of the left side crank seal. I've twice installed
the double lipped seal that trbig recommended. First time I seated it in too far and am sure I plugged the oil drain hole in the bottom of the case. Was more careful the second time, and did coat the outside of the seal each time with Yamabond before install. Here is a pic...
The bottom part of the seal looks a bit "smeared" in the photo from seating it but I don't think that is the issue. In person you can clearly see oil around the crank, and I get a good sized puddle on the ground when I park the bike after running it. I purchased a Speedi Sleeve to try and fix this issue, National part # 99128 for shaft diameter 1.257" - 1.263". Here it is...
Anybody have much experience with these? The directions say to put the flange end of the sleeve on the crank and then use the cup tool to gently tap the sleeve on far enough to cover where the seal will ride on the crank. I'm sure I read on this forum somewhere about somebody using one of these successfully but that they purposely installed the sleeve on backwards. That method would necessitate the removal of the flange after installation in order to install the new seal, look closely at the picture and you will see a cut line around the sleeve near the flange for removing the flange. My concern would be that this would leave a sharp edge that might damage a new seal when trying to install it? I want to make sure I get this right the first time, I think trying to remove the sleeve after installing it might be a chore!
Any and all help and ideas are appreciated, hope you all have wintered well!
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