You got it Skids. It's a scary thing seeing that 10+v @ idle.
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thinking about getting heated gear...
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Hey Ian,
How about a second battery just to run the vest. Don't have it connected to the charging system. Just plug it in to a charger once you get back home in the garage? JAT.
I'm thankful that I live where it's usually quite warm, and when it gets too cold I just don't ride.
But you haven't actually done "everything" . As we have learned, we can't boost the output of the OEM Alt because there's no room for more windings. That's partly why I did my experimental mod of putting the Mini-automotive Race Alt on mine. It's rated at up to 50 A, has a built in REG/RECT and uses just 1 wire charging connection to the battery. But it's an UGLY mod and I dont' know how well is would behave if caught in a bad rain storm.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View PostHey Ian,
How about a second battery just to run the vest. Don't have it connected to the charging system. Just plug it in to a charger once you get back home in the garage? JAT.
I'm thankful that I live where it's usually quite warm, and when it gets too cold I just don't ride.
But you haven't actually done "everything" . As we have learned, we can't boost the output of the OEM Alt because there's no room for more windings. That's partly why I did my experimental mod of putting the Mini-automotive Race Alt on mine. It's rated at up to 50 A, has a built in REG/RECT and uses just 1 wire charging connection to the battery. But it's an UGLY mod and I dont' know how well is would behave if caught in a bad rain storm.
T.C.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Thanks for the input, everyone. It's been warmer (in the 30's/40's), but a bit rainy, so I haven't risked riding. All of this info has been VERY helpful, and much appreciated!
Here's another question:
Being that I'm going to go through this bike ground-up in a few months, I want to obviously make the charging system as strong as possible. One research roadblock I've hit involves the stator. Is there a way to locate a brand new one, or do I have to just get a used one?? I saw a couple of refurbished ones, but I'm a bit skeptical about that. Anyone ever refurbished these themselves?? I know that I need a good reg/rec for sure...just not sure which brand to get. Suggestions also appreciated on that end! I'm trying to learn, and be as DIY as possible on this project...so if there's any way that I could possibly do some trial/error, building/ engineering on ANYTHING with this bike, PLEASE set me straight!! This thing is literally like my child...I don't care how much money I have to spend on it. I REALLY want to make this thing something special, while retaining the original integrity of the bike that came out of the factory. Plus, I want to make it as strong as possible for an LD ride/make it to one of the rallies!!
I'm gonna be blowing this forum up in the next couple of months when I actually start this build. YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!
Eric80' XS1100 SG "Dottie"
79' SF carbs
MAC 4-1
K&N Pods
Accel 3.0 coils
Tarozzi fork brace
TC fusebox
Picture update soon
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4...psej6wqu9l.jpg
79' XS1100 SF (parts, will be reborn)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4...snfgpozqn.jpeg
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For the reg/rec, just buy one from geezer! Best you can get, and plug and play on top of it! I've not had any problems with the stator, so unless you KNOW you have a bad one it should be good.(one bike had over 130K miles on original) If you need another, just ask around as some of us have good used parts, and andreasweiss is a bike breaker and sells good used parts at a reasonable price.
Can't wait to see what you do with it!Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Keep in mind that the alternator is easily damaged if you remove it. The case must be removed with the stator still in it - don’t loosen the three screw bolts while the case is on the bike. There is little annulus clearance between the rotor and the stator, so pulling the case with the stator must be done carefully.
I suspect that if you remove every component that draws current (except for running the bike and charging the battery) you would find that below 1250 rpms, the battery slowly drops. It is the nature of the beast. You can’t get blood from a turnip! You can do things that make the draw-down slower at that rpm range. Making the headlight switchable will definately help...Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Other than TC..I'm surprised there isnt an established mod for an Alternator upgrade..Cause thats really what one ought to do if they expect to run heated gear and other aux. devices...1980 XS650G Special-Two
1993 Honda ST1100
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+1 on what Skids says. Just replace the cover and all. Try not to disturb the actual stator. U don't want the stator windings rubbing on the rotor. When the bike is warming up, I turn the headlight and fogs off, leaving just the turn signals and tail light on (switched).
Upgrading the gauge size on the battery/solenoid/starter connections will help crank the bike better, but not aid in charging. This is where Tony's R/R comes in. Solid State Relays. Great option. Not sure Tony is making these anymore? Your second option would be to use an aftermarket R/R (I like the SH-847), and wire it straight to the battery via inline fuse.
Converting to LED everything should help you as-well, instrument cluster, turn signals, brake light, headlight. Get an electronic turn signal flasher. You'll lose the auto-off feature, but so what.
Convert to TC's fuse box. Much better than glass fuses. Any accessories added, use a relay for switched power.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by madmax-im View PostOther than TC..I'm surprised there isnt an established mod for an Alternator upgrade..Cause thats really what one ought to do if they expect to run heated gear and other aux. devices...1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View PostI'm surprised the Britts have not come-up with anything. They're way ahead of us in mods.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...128#post5051281980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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2 cents worth
i have a sneaking suspicion that Math is a machinist, so some of his modd's are a bit more then some people can do in they're garage.
I love reading his threads though.. dude has skills!
i run heated grips and a heated seat, i'm not a big fan of putting on more layers
seat kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-5...VYOAur&vxp=mtr
use the 5 setting kits, NOT the high/low kits
low = too cool (at 60 mph) and high will roast your chestnuts on an open fire. (yes... first hand experience.)
i only use one of the heating elements in the seat.
the heated grips and the heated seat still cost less then the jacket alone.
i add a relay and wire to the batt, that way it all shuts down with the key.
wiring diagram 4 pin relay
http://www.offroaders.com/cheap-tric...-using-relays/
wiring 5 pin relay varies with the relay you buy, but diagrams are plentiful.1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.
(2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.
1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!
Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!
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also..
i wrap the seat heating element in denim for fire resistance and prevent melting.
i install it (wrapped) under the seat cover.1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.
(2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.
1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!
Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!
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