Charging issues

[Phare Est]

Sorry, I am a bit "dense." I need a better description on what side of what clip you did your measurements and what connectors you touched with the probes. Also, when you say "out of whack", what were the readings? Keep in mind that corrosion in a wiring clip is usually the culprit, meaning ripping out wiring is not a solution for that.

Hi Skids,

Sorry about the vagueness in my previous post. I tested the three white alternator wires going from the plug-in behind the fuse box to the plug-in at the REG/REC (harness side), with the REG/REC plug-in being disconnected. I get the following readings on the multimeter from the five possible combinations (on the 200Ω setting): 1.7Ω, 4.4Ω, 1.8Ω, 0.6Ω, 0.8Ω. When I test the white wires at the (disconnected) plug-in behind the fuse box coming strait from the alternator, I get 0.6Ω from all possible combinations. Could corrosion on the spade terminals be causing this? I was able to clean the male terminals, but not the female ones.

[skids]

Hi Skids,

Sorry about the vagueness in my previous post. I tested the three white alternator wires going from the plug-in behind the fuse box to the plug-in at the REG/REC (harness side), with the REG/REC plug-in being disconnected. I get the following readings on the multimeter from the five possible combinations (on the 200Ω setting): 1.7Ω, 4.4Ω, 1.8Ω, 0.6Ω, 0.8Ω. When I test the white wires at the (disconnected) plug-in behind the fuse box coming strait from the alternator, I get 0.6Ω from all possible combinations. Could corrosion on the spade terminals be causing this? I was able to clean the male terminals, but not the female ones.

I think with 3 whites, there are 4 combinations for testing: 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-3 because going from 3 creates duplicates. The manual say 0.4 ohms. Touch the leads together on your ohm meter to see if it reads zero. If it reads any ohms, you can subtract that from your readings. The clip closer to the regulator disconnected, with the clip behind the fusebox connected, should essentially give the same results (I think). With the run of wires being so short, the only appreciable added resistance comes from the connections. I think most people that have had issues, had them at the clip behind the fusebox. I know that one of the wires (yellow?) goes to the tach and somehow to the headlight relay. To tell you the truth, I am not sure that could affect readings...

[3Phase]

Hi Skids,

Sorry about the vagueness in my previous post. I tested the three white alternator wires going from the plug-in behind the fuse box to the plug-in at the REG/REC (harness side), with the REG/REC plug-in being disconnected. I get the following readings on the multimeter from the five possible combinations (on the 200Ω setting): 1.7Ω, 4.4Ω, 1.8Ω, 0.6Ω, 0.8Ω. When I test the white wires at the (disconnected) plug-in behind the fuse box coming strait from the alternator, I get 0.6Ω from all possible combinations. Could corrosion on the spade terminals be causing this? I was able to clean the male terminals, but not the female ones.

0.6 Ohms means your stator is slightly baked. It should work fine for the stock electrical load and still recharge the battery but you should find another one.

I did ask you to do the test at the Regulator/Rectifier connectors but it's not important, you found the problem.

Yes, the different resistance readings up at the Regulator/Rectifier connectors and at the connector behind the fuse block mean that you have dirty connectors or the wire(s) from the fuse block got pinched by something.

Check the wiring harness from the fuse block to the Regulator/Rectifier for nicks, cuts, or crushing but before you disassemble it, use Google and search for:
clean electrical connectors site:xs11.com

[Jerry]

For what it's worth, I use a product called Deoxit D-series in an aerosol can for cleaning all my electrical connectors. Seems to work well. Deoxit is also available in other series, G and S, but I have not tried them yet. The G series is for gold-plated connectors and the S series is supposed to be for severe environments. D-series is for general applications.

[red bandit]

Who sells Deoxit D-series?

[DiverRay]

Amazon, Radio Shack, Walmart, etc. That was a quick google search on "deoxit d" .

[Phare Est]

I think with 3 whites, there are 4 combinations for testing: 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-3 because going from 3 creates duplicates. The manual say 0.4 ohms. Touch the leads together on your ohm meter to see if it reads zero. If it reads any ohms, you can subtract that from your readings. The clip closer to the regulator disconnected, with the clip behind the fusebox connected, should essentially give the same results (I think). With the run of wires being so short, the only appreciable added resistance comes from the connections. I think most people that have had issues, had them at the clip behind the fusebox. I know that one of the wires (yellow?) goes to the tach and somehow to the headlight relay. To tell you the truth, I am not sure that could affect readings...

I'm happy to say that when I touch the multimeter probes together, I get a reading of 0.2Ω ☺. Therefore, my stator is seemingly in good enough shape (0.4Ω on all three white wires).

I haven't had time to work on the bike today. I was only able to clean part of the spade terminals yesterday (no luck trying to pry them out of the connectors...) Regardless, the contact cleaner I've been using just doesn't cut it, so I'll try to get a hold of some Deoxit D-series.

[jetmechmarty]

What you probably need is a new connector and an open barrel crimper to install it. Or.... git rid of the connector and hook it up like in this video.

https://youtu.be/pZ809uTlENE

[bikerphil]

Another option is to get rid of the connector entirely and hardwire that junction with some crimp connectors. I have done such myself.

[3Phase]

Another option is to get rid of the connector entirely and hardwire that junction with some crimp connectors. I have done such myself.

1978 and 1979, the Yellow stator wire runs the Headlight relay.
1980 on, the Yellow stator wire isn't used.

When the alternator connector on my '80G fried, I bought a terminal strip from Radio Shack with some ring terminals.

I mounted everything to the rubber grommet in the battery box, then covered it with a piece of plastic from a coffee can lid to keep water off of it and to keep "things" from shorting the terminals.


Terminal strip #274-658




Wires and strip mounted to the battery box with a plastic screw




The cover to lock in freshness and flavor

[skids]

I like it!

[Geezer]

Hi Skids,

Sorry about the vagueness in my previous post. I tested the three white alternator wires going from the plug-in behind the fuse box to the plug-in at the REG/REC (harness side), with the REG/REC plug-in being disconnected. I get the following readings on the multimeter from the five possible combinations (on the 200Ω setting): 1.7Ω, 4.4Ω, 1.8Ω, 0.6Ω, 0.8Ω. When I test the white wires at the (disconnected) plug-in behind the fuse box coming strait from the alternator, I get 0.6Ω from all possible combinations. Could corrosion on the spade terminals be causing this? I was able to clean the male terminals, but not the female ones.

The specs on these doesn't really cover the variability in these coils. I've seen them from .1 to 1.25 and still be OK. You're right about the connector. Deoxit only helps a little. Way too many times I've seen the ends of the wire corroded under where the terminal is crimped on. The best way to go is to cut off the old terminals and put on a new ones and a new plug.

Geezer

[Phare Est]

I've decided to follow bikerphil's advice, that is to get rid of the old connectors and try crimp connectors. I have a question about the three prong harness plug-in which leads to the field coil. There's a black wire in that plug-in. To what do I connect the other end of that wire (which is connected to the REG/REC by one of the two screws)? What does it ground exactly?

Thank you!

[3Phase]

I've decided to follow bikerphil's advice, that is to get rid of the old connectors and try crimp connectors. I have a question about the three prong harness plug-in which leads to the field coil. There's a black wire in that plug-in. To what do I connect the other end of that wire (which is connected to the REG/REC by one of the two screws)? What does it ground exactly?

Thank you!

The Back wire in the harness side of the Voltage Regulator connector is just an unused ground wire, the Voltage Regulator doesn't need it or use it. You don't need to connect it to anything, it's left over from an earlier Regulator design.

[skids]

The Back wire in the harness side of the Voltage Regulator connector is just an unused ground wire, the Voltage Regulator doesn't need it or use it. You don't need to connect it to anything, it's left over from an earlier Regulator design.

But do clean the contacts between the VR and the frame holes. I believe that is how it makes ground.