Factory air filter or pods

[leggman1]

I am debating whether to remove the factory air filter and go with the pods.
I like the look of the pods but I don't want to change the jets in the carbs. Please clue me in. Thanks Dave

[motoman]

I am debating whether to remove the factory air filter and go with the pods.
I like the look of the pods but I don't want to change the jets in the carbs. Please clue me in. Thanks Dave

I advise using the stock air box/filter. Reason being is those vacuum slide carbs ARE designed to work BEST with stock air box. In other words, for all things to work best over all rpm ranges, left stock IS the best. I know pods make for convenience of carb removal, but with a little practice, I can have seat,tank, fairing lowers AND carb bank off in less than twelve minutes....easy-peasy.

[spectra]

I am debating whether to remove the factory air filter and go with the pods.
I like the look of the pods but I don't want to change the jets in the carbs. Please clue me in. Thanks Dave

I would say everyone will probably say stock.......but I went the pod rout actually I am running UNI filters on mine. You probably will need to mess with the carbs so if you are not wanting to do so I say stick with stock.

[skids]

I would say everyone will probably say stock.......but I went the pod rout actually I am running UNI filters on mine. You probably will need to mess with the carbs so if you are not wanting to do so I say stick with stock.

K&N full sized filters are the ones for me. I used UNI's on older style air box and the clips for the airbox caught the foam. Simply a nightmare!!! K&N single pods were difficult for carb tuning while using a 4-1 Jardine header. I went back to the stock airbox with K&N washable. YMMV.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again Leggman,

From your other thread, looks like you may be going into your carbs again anyways, so now you can justify doing the Pods. The pods themselves aren't necessarily the problem as much as the AIR FLOW into the carbs. The OEM airbox has internal velocity stacks that help straighten the air flow going into the carbs. SHORT mounted Pods can cause vortices and turbulence, as well as even possibly block the inlet bell ports with a large mounting lip!

SO...that's why we realized that to help with tuning with Pods, that folks should use a velocity stack style moutning placing the pods a few inches away from the carbs. I've had this design for years with no problems, did have to rejet but I'm also running 4-1 pipes and an 1179 big bore kit.

However, others have reported using the quality K&N clone oval pods WITHOUT velocity stack mounts and have no problems with tuning or throttle response. YMMV

T.C.