11.8v ok?

[mschor]

I know this has been covered before lots but i cant find exactly what I'm looking for. My battery is at 11.8v with the key off. 12.5v under throttle. Can this affect performance much? I'm asking because I just took the carbs completely apart to ultrasonic clean them & put in new butterfly shaft seals. It sat for a few weeks in the process, & now there's some vibration & low power. I synced and adjusted mixture. Before I go into tuning or carb deconstruction again, I wanted to get an answer on the battery question.

[motoman]

I know this has been covered before lots but i cant find exactly what I'm looking for. My battery is at 11.8v with the key off. 12.5v under throttle. Can this affect performance much? I'm asking because I just took the carbs completely apart to ultrasonic clean them & put in new butterfly shaft seals. It sat for a few weeks in the process, & now there's some vibration & low power. I synced and adjusted mixture. Before I go into tuning or carb deconstruction again, I wanted to get an answer on the battery question.

A good battery needs to be at 12.7v with no load. Under throttle, batt. charging system should be at approx. 14.7v.
So...aside from battery needing replacing, check ALL connections. First to take apart and clean is the STOP/RUN switch. This completes the running circuit. Next would be a voltage loss at ignition switch.....again, take apart and clean. That ought to get you started with electrical issues....key word 'STARTED".

[IanDMacDonald]

If u want my opinion . . . U could upgrade the R/R on this bike to a MOSFET-type. SH-847 is my fave. Run the stator wires directly to the R/R, then straight to the battery (fused).

Then . . . Upgrade the battery to starter, battery to solenoid, and battery to ground cables with 4 AWG cable.

[skids]

I know this has been covered before lots but i cant find exactly what I'm looking for. My battery is at 11.8v with the key off. 12.5v under throttle. Can this affect performance much? I'm asking because I just took the carbs completely apart to ultrasonic clean them & put in new butterfly shaft seals. It sat for a few weeks in the process, & now there's some vibration & low power. I synced and adjusted mixture. Before I go into tuning or carb deconstruction again, I wanted to get an answer on the battery question.

Make sure that battery water is good. The main issue is that below 1500 rpms, you run off of the battery. As the volts drop below like 10.4 volts, you ignition box will cut out. Note that a bad battery can seem OK with a static test (not running), but a load test at start-up can show a crappy battery. So... your battery might be marginal - or, your charging system might not be up to snuff. You might want to check the connections behind the fuse panel (3 white, one yellow/white) to ensure all is good there.

[bikerphil]

One would figure if the battery has enough juice to crank the engine, it would be enough to fire the coils adequately.

[skids]

One would figure if the battery has enough juice to crank the engine, it would be enough to fire the coils adequately.

I'll admit that I am not an electrical wizard and your question is valid. I had a battery die on me during a ride once and I barely made it home. Replaced the battery and all was good after that. I had to keep the rpms up at a couple of stop lights.

[TopCatGr58]

One would figure if the battery has enough juice to crank the engine, it would be enough to fire the coils adequately.

Hey Phil,

Yeah, it's amazing that this can happen, but it does. I had battery that was able to crank the engine, not as quickly as it used to, but still not totally anemic, yet the bike wouldn't FIRE. Attached a booster battery to just the ignition fuse, and used the same weak battery to crank, and it fired right up.

But good connections void of corrosion is also very important for preventing voltage losses across the harness.

T.C.

[mschor]

Ok thanks I'll look into it!

[mschor]

Fully charged battery, resynced and mixtured, better but still vibrating under heavy throttle. Never experienced on this bike before. It feels smooth on take off and idle, its most apparent at full throttle in the upper gears. It's almost a feeling like 1 cylinder not firing but they're definitely all firing. Gonna break into the carbs again tonight. 'Fraid I might have swapped a couple of the slides. They all move freely but I flipped the carbs around 1 too many times putting them back together.

[bikerphil]

I think your bike is running lean, I usually set those late carbs up with 120 mains no matter what exhaust is on there. What do you have in there? What do the plugs look like?

[mschor]

You may be right, it has 110's across. 1&2 plugs look pretty lean. 3&4 have some color on them. Pilot screws are 4 1/2 & 5 turns out now tho. I cleaned the carbs this last time because it seemed like pilot circuit issues, but what it's showing now is more above pilot circuit range. I'm wondering if the ultrasonic loosened up some stuff that got lodged downstream. I didnt use any pressure to clear them out after, just the ultrasound.

[mschor]

I rechecked the compression just to make sure and its perfect 165 across all 4

[bikerphil]

I think the pilot circuit is clear now as you said it is smooth in the lower RPM. The main circuit is most likely clear, you just need some bigger jets. Try some 120's from MikesXS, they are in Tampa so they ship here fast.

[mschor]

Maybe that will help, but this is a new thing, it used to run smooth in the mains, just a little hesitation down in the pilot range. BTW those shaft seals were ready to go, hard & brittle, came off in pieces

[bikerphil]

Maybe try hot wiring the coils directly to battery and see if it improves voltage. I run my hot aftermarket coils that way with the 'voodoo electrics' coil relay mod.