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  • #16
    Originally posted by DavePlum View Post
    Skids- Who is Brant? Is that motoman?
    Sounds as if swapping out the middle drive is likely a waste of my time.
    “I would suspect that the dreaded dog/slots in the transmission are an issue”
    You might be right but I’d really like to rule everything else out before attempting something like that.

    Actually, I was wrong when I stated the flange begins to rotate as soon as I put it into first gear. I meant to say the flange immediately begins to rotate when I start the bike in neutral and will continue to rotate even when I pull the clutch handle in. When I shift into first the rotation of the flange continues and that's when I hear the "clackity-clack". Btw...after repeating the clutch adjustment it seems to shift into all gears fine now but I still get the "clackity-clack" in every gear and it’s not momentary… it’s continuous.

    TC- I was debating pulling the clutch basket because this bike sat for at least 2 years before I got bought it so checking the clutch and friction plates might be a good idea? If I did this I could check the c clip and that large bolt. I was reading up on pulling the clutch basket, sounds like it requires an impact driver to get that center bolt off?
    Thanks
    Impact spins nut off quickly. Maunual nut removal, just pop bike in gear while on centerstand and stick a 2"x4" through rear spokes of wheel to keep things stationary when loosening that nut. There is also a notch beside the clutch assembly that has an aligning notch in clutch basket that one can stick an old screwdriver into to keep things stationary also.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by motoman View Post
      Impact spins nut off quickly. Maunual nut removal, just pop bike in gear while on centerstand and stick a 2"x4" through rear spokes of wheel to keep things stationary when loosening that nut. There is also a notch beside the clutch assembly that has an aligning notch in clutch basket that one can stick an old screwdriver into to keep things stationary also.
      OK, it looks like you are getting advice on removal of the clutch plates/basket. On reassembly, make sure that the gears of the oil pump mesh properly with the basket. Also, be careful with the torque on the bolts for the star plate, and screw them in evenly so that one are does not receive the majority of the torque. The throw-out bearing (?) has balls that need to be positioned properly. The adjustment of the clutch (side plate area) also must have adjustment at the clutch handle to ensure proper slack. I hope this helps!
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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