Bleeding brakes

[foxjohnc]

Maybe I'm an idiot, but I dont know how to bleed brakes to save my life. I have tried every method imaginable with no success. Is a speed bleeder necessary or can I do it without extra gadgets? Can someone explain to me in a step by step process how to bleed brakes?

[CRXSi90]

well, the usual methods is to open the bleeder, squeeze the lever or foot brake, close the bleeder, then let up on the brake.

Does there seem to be any other malfunctions that would prevent that from working?

[rneal55555]

Just did mine tried different thing on and of over a couple of days no luck. Tried to get a mighty vac vacum pump to suck the fluid through but couldn't find one tried about three differnt Auto parts store and Sears My wife was with me a suggested we try Boaters World I told her to be quiet because they wouldn't have it either.
But it got me thinking I already have a vacum oil change pump for my boat. So when I got home I got it out stuck some hoses together between the bleeders and the oil change pump opened the bleeder 3\4 of a turn I had already put teflon tapr onthe threads) gave the pump about 15 stokes and sucked 1\2 pint of fluid through the left side till the air bubbles stopped shut the bleeder shift to the right side and did the same. took about 10 minutes. It moved the fluid so fast I really had to stay on top of adding fluid to the MC to keep it from going dry. I could watch the fluid go down in the MC. They still felt a lettle soft so I did a trick I saw on here someplace to just slap the brake lever 20 or thirty times to dislodge the air in the MC. Great feel after that and they work like a champ. Added bonus is I'm sure I got all the old fluid out. Mine only need bleeding because the PO had removes the lines and MC to paint.
Hope that helps

[ratbyk]

Bleeding Brakes

foxjohnc, First of, I have been where you are now, bleed and bleed and bleed. What am I doing wrong? Bleed some more.In the end I had a defective master cylinder and as fast as I bleed the air out of the system, the master put more back in.
Assuming that that is not the trouble what you are trying to do is remove all air from a hydraulic system. Air will compress, a fluid will not.
Make sure that your bleeder screw opening is not plugged with any foreign material. That the master cylinder reservoir is full of fresh brake fluid, That you have a plastic or similar over your gas tank to protect the paint.
Next,pump the lever 2-3 times and hold it in the on position so that you are creating pressure in the system. Next open the bleeder screw to allow the pressure/fluid/air to escape from the system. All the time holding the lever in. (if you let up on the lever while the bleeder screw is open you will draw a bunch of air back into the system) Repeat this as many times as necessary to achieve a good lever or pedal. With dual front calipers you may have to bleed one caliper a few times then the other and back to the original for a couple more pumps.
Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir. Do not let it run dry or you will have to start all over. Do not look down into the master with the cover off and then operate the lever. It will spit brake fluid in your face.
A trick I use is to attach a short piece of vacuum hose onto the bleeder screw and run it down into a jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. I then open the bleeder screw and slowly pump the lever while watching the end of the hose. You can actually see the bubbles being pumped out. When the bubbles stop close up the bleeder screw and most of the time pressure is right there.
Brake fluid eats paint and it will sure make you dance if you get it in your eye. Be careful.
At times while working on XS's I have had trouble building pressure. Mainly with the rear but at times with the front as well. I remove the master and holding it a slightly different angle I proceed to bleed. It seems to work. What I think I'm doing is moving air trapped in some part of the master cylinder-bore to a new location so that it can be bleed out.
Lots of luck,
Ken/Sooke
78E Ratbyk
82 FT500 "lilRat"

[pathfinder]

Speed Bleeders

When I changed to S/S lines a few months ago I needed a caliper piston. When I ordered it I also added standard bleeder screws to the order. Big mistake, after all the bleeding done to this bike over the years the threads on the calipers were loose. I could hardly crack the line without air coming in around the threads. I worked for hours with a mity-vac and finally got close then had to hand bleed to finish off. Just a thought never ever put Teflon tape on bleeder nipples as it turns to mush in a couple of minutes then happily makes it's way throughout the brake system sealing things that shouldn't be sealed up. I.E. the dreaded spooge hole. There was an articticle about just that thing in Popular Mechanics in the last few months. Just my 2 Cents. Call mikesXS and order speed bleeders they have a thread sealant on them already that will not come off in the brake system. Wish now I would have bought them, trying to save money I guess, bleeding was a xsive pain in the a%^.

[tab1324]

"water level method"

I don't know if this is really a GOOD way to do it but I've had some success by using a long piece of clear tubing and the "water level method"..... Have you ever used a water level? The principal is that water seaks its own level in a tube. Take a tube of any size (or hose) and put some water in it. Now where ever you lift one end of the hose the water will always seek true level. It SHOULD theoretically work the same with any fluid. I tried this on my front brakes by filling master cylinder with fresh brake fluid (NOT WATER!!!) and opening the bleeder screw - pumped a few times to get the fluid flowing down the brake line... Then with a clear tube connected to the bleeder screw - raise the tube to the level of the master cylinder. This is very slow but you can watch the fluid rise in the tube. The problem I was having was that my master cylinder wouldn't fill in the cylinder portion so I had a tiny bit of fluid flowing when I'd push the lever. But after using this method I'd get good flow. You'll notice that once the fluid has risen up the tube that if you lower the tube slightly below the master cylinder, the fluid will flow out - it's trying to find level...

Again - I don't know if this a great way of doing things but it worked for me. Comments welcome....


Tom B.