Just Another Restore Thread...

[TruthHammer]

Thanks, Ray. I see he's got SH side covers. Any chance they'd mount on the SF frame? Possibly with a little modification? I know they're not cheap, but it might be easier than replacing the seat, grab bar, tail light, and God knows what else.

[DiverRay]

Big difference is the mounts at the top. IIRC the '79 has two oval holes, and the '80 has a round hole and a "C" in it for the front mount. you may be able to make them work, just use a bit of JB weld to make the "c" into a round hole you can file oval.

[TruthHammer]

I got the issue with the seat temporary resolved by flaring out the edge of the seat a little. You'd hardly notice, but it's given me enough clearance to not worry about it for now.

On to the latest issue!

I finally got new tires. The problem is that after remounting the front wheel, the brakes are engaged and won't loose. Any suggestions for loosening them short of rebuilding the calipers?

[skids]

I finally got new tires. The problem is that after remounting the front wheel, the brakes are engaged and won't loose. Any suggestions for loosening them short of rebuilding the calipers?

If the bike has been sitting for a long time or if the fluid hasn’t been changed, you might want to consider taking the calipers apart and derust with fine steel wool. The thing that makes them lock is that the fluid return hole (aka “spooge hole”) gets blocked in the master cylinder.

[DiverRay]

No, you will need to rebuild. The good news is it's just time, NOT parts!
What has probably happened is moisture has gotten into the brake fluid and oxidized the aluminum caliper. You can pull them off the bike, take them apart, clean the "O" ring seal with new brake fluid ONLY!, scrape the grove the "O" ring seats in and put them back together. Refill with new fluid and bleed. 99% of the time that's all that is needed.

[TruthHammer]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I noticed while I was changing the tires that the brake pads were getting pretty worn. I was going to put it off to next season, but if I'm going to be doing brake work now any way, I might as well do it right. Any recommendations on suppliers? Any suppliers I should avoid?

[Radioguylogs]

D2Moto for Brake Pads

I have been satisfied with these brake pads:

https://www.d2moto.com/products/1979...ear-brake-pads

I have them on 4 of my bikes.

They are sooooo affordable.

[DiverRay]

The specials have weird pads! One side looks like its worn out, and the other side has 1/4" of material. THIS IS NORMAL for the brake design Yamaha used on the Specials. When the front pads are almost the same thickness, they are worn out.

[TruthHammer]

The specials have weird pads! One side looks like its worn out, and the other side has 1/4" of material. THIS IS NORMAL for the brake design Yamaha used on the Specials. When the front pads are almost the same thickness, they are worn out.

The rears are definitely toast, but the fronts match what you're describing. This is good?

Left side:


Right side:

[spectra]

Thats the way they look.....when I took mine off I thought they were messed up but read up on them and sure enough there supposed to look that way.

[DiverRay]

If the pad is not contaminated, just break the glaze with some 120 Grit paper and put them back on. The rears are easy, as it's the same pad used on all the XS11's.

[MaximPhil]

clean up the rust on the tabs where they slide on the caliper. A little dab of anti-seize will keep them moving freely.

Phil

[TruthHammer]

Any tips for removing the front MC reservoir? I removed the 4 long screws and turned it. When I tried prying it off, it doesn't seem to want to come. With as much fight as it's putting up, I'm a little concerned about breaking it.

[jetmechmarty]

There's a packing or o'ring holding it in. It fits into a groove both in the base and the plastic cup. You just pull it out, even though it won't come easy. That packing is not in the parts catalog, so you'll have to find one by matching it up.

[Radioguylogs]

Any tips for removing the front MC reservoir? I removed the 4 long screws and turned it. When I tried prying it off, it doesn't seem to want to come. With as much fight as it's putting up, I'm a little concerned about breaking it.

I rotate the nylon bowl and then work a big screwdriver in between the nylon bowl and the aluminum base. The nylon won't break, but you want to be careful not to make a gouge with the screwdriver that will compromise the appearance.

I just take the O-ring to the local hardware store and match the size as best I can. I have good results so far.