Just Another Restore Thread...

[TruthHammer]

I went through my parts and have 4 of the domed screen/filters and 1 seat. There are some parts that you can clean up and are better off for doing so. Check with us before spending your last dollar, (I remember the first bike I resurrected), I had more money in it than it was worth, by far. How many miles are on this bike ? That will tell us what is most likely worn and could need replacement.

Thanks for looking! PM sent.

[TruthHammer]

Change of plans... donebysunday is hooking me up with a seat and screen (Woot!) so I'm just going to find a needle and try to get them polished up before dropping that much money on a rebuild kit.

So what's a good source for a needle?

Also, I'm still holding on that question about the o-rings. All of the PO's were completely disintegrated. What do I need to get to avoid the same mistake?

Thank you all for your help!

[skids]

Hey there Truth,

Okay, that eBay kit part # is KY-0216, searched, found it's a Keyster brand carb kit which I think more popular in UK, but not sure??

We do know that the K&L kits are junk with regards to their jets and slide needles being the wrong gauges/metering openings, and the wrong taper on the slide needles. The float needles are also different/shorter than OEM and have weaker springs on the ends.

I haven't heard anyone talk about Keyster brand kits.

While doing the search for the above kit #, I also found this website and these kits which even come with the brass floats!! They are kits made in Taiwan, takes 2+ weeks delivery standard shipping! $70.00 for 4 kits/floats!
But again can't speak for their quality!?

http://daminedingmoto.com/4-x-carbur...s1100-xs1100s/

So, it looks like it might be a crap shoot with the kits you found on eBay as well as the Taiwanese ones I found VS Genuine Mikuni Jets/float needles/seats. YMMV.

T.C.

You might want to save the old pilot screw ("mixture screw") springs. Some rebuild kits give springs that look a lot like the ones in the picture. The wire gage of the spring is thicker and it can cause less range in adjustments.

[TruthHammer]

I've read a number of posts about deleting the octy. But I haven't seen a reason why. Is it prone to failure? What's the upside to removing it? Is there a downside besides having to remember to turn the petcocks off?

[jetmechmarty]

I've read a number of posts about deleting the octy. But I haven't seen a reason why. Is it prone to failure? What's the upside to removing it? Is there a downside besides having to remember to turn the petcocks off?

It's a safety device. It usually fails open. You won't notice that until it floods while parked. I keep mine in working order. I'm the OEM type mechanic. Many others delete it.

[TruthHammer]

stupid question...

Alright, it's time for a really stupid question...

When I took the carbs apart, I found in a few recesses some little black bits that I judged by their general color and texture to be the remnants of dissolved o-rings. But when I look on the fiche for the carbs (Big thanks for finding those!) and in all of the rebuild kits for the 79s, I don't see any rubber o-rings. So on the 79s, where (if anywhere) should there be o-rings and in what sizes?

[DiverRay]

What you probably found was bits of rubber from the inside of the fuel lines! Don't worry about "O" rings at the moment, as you don't have any inside the carbs. I usually do not replace much when I do a rebuild, other than fuel lines and broken gaskets.
The later carbs are a different story, as they DO have "O" rings that MUST be replaced.

[TruthHammer]

What you probably found was bits of rubber from the inside of the fuel lines! Don't worry about "O" rings at the moment, as you don't have any inside the carbs. I usually do not replace much when I do a rebuild, other than fuel lines and broken gaskets.
The later carbs are a different story, as they DO have "O" rings that MUST be replaced.

Thanks again, DiverRay!

And thanks to everybody else who has replied to this thread so far. I haven't always responded, but it's all been very helpful.

[skids]

Alright, it's time for a really stupid question...

When I took the carbs apart, I found in a few recesses some little black bits that I judged by their general color and texture to be the remnants of dissolved o-rings. But when I look on the fiche for the carbs (Big thanks for finding those!) and in all of the rebuild kits for the 79s, I don't see any rubber o-rings. So on the 79s, where (if anywhere) should there be o-rings and in what sizes?

Black rubber bits may be from the fuel hose deteriorating.

[TopCatGr58]

Black rubber bits may be from the fuel hose deteriorating.

And hopefully it's not from the rubber outer portions of the Carb fuel/air/vent "T" fittings!?

T.C.

[TruthHammer]

Thanks again, guys. Do you have any wise counsel on fuel line replacement? Are the vac lines the same?

[DiverRay]

Fuel and Vac. lines are different. Fuel is best if you get it from a motorcycle shop, as you need 1/4" or 6 mm NO reinforcing fabric/threads. Some guys like Tygon, I've not had much luck with it. Vac line is 4 mm, IIRC, and can be bought from the local parts house. DO NOT forget the block off caps on the carb boots! If they are hard, or you can spin them on the boots, they are bad and need to be replaced. You should be able to find a pack that will work at the auto supply. Look for the red blister packs on the revolving rack, usually about $1.49 per. The oem clips usually don't fit, but I use a small ziptie to keep them on.

[TopCatGr58]

Yeah, some folks like the TYGON because it's clear and they can see the fuel flowing thru it. I have inline fuel filters and can see the fuel in the filters, so I don't need to see it in the line. Motion Pro makes some grey motorcycle line, think it's made with VITON or silicone, lasts many years and doesn't dissolve, and takes many years before it gets stiff.

T.C.

[TruthHammer]

Thanks, guys. I stopped at the local cycle shop and picked up some transparent fuel line.

[skids]

Thanks, guys. I stopped at the local cycle shop and picked up some transparent fuel line.

Its good stuff, probably tygon. I recommend changing it periodically...like ever other year or so.