Need some advice from the more experienced here.

[sorbemca]

I've owned a '79 Special for a year or so and have finally decided to invest a few bucks to to make it a more reliable daily rider and two-up bike.

We need a windshield, I'm tall and make a great sail, so we need a fairly large one. Not interested in the fairing approach, although I know the Vetter was very popular. Anyone have a recommendation on a period looking recurve model?

I've swapped out the original bars, but would swap back to fit the right shield if needed.

I also have a backrest luggage rack but I am missing the standoffs for the shock tower end of the supports. Anyone know the size or where I canttt find them?

The bike runs, starts on the first crank with some choke, runs rough until it warms up, but once there, it runs good, best over 4K.

What next?
The spaghetti of fuel lines under the tank is scary and some of the clamps are now tywraps.

Card rebuild?

Second gear fix? Seems to shift fine, but you can't be timid with it either.
How expensive is this fix?

What else?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Marc

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Marc,

Okay, the SlipStreamer brand offers a variety of handlebar mounted windscreens, both just upper as well as some lower/below/beside the headlight/turnsignals that will provide a decent amount of wind protection.
This is just an example from AMAZON.


As to the spaghetti hoses, look for how to remove the octopus valve, relatively simple with a couple of Y/T style 1/4" hose/fuel connectors and some NEW 1/4" fuel line, motorcycle grade, not automotive, single walled, again variety of places to get it, from your local dealer, ebay, etc. either Motion Pro rubber or Tygon type. Upper ports on carbs are just vents, just put some fuel filters on the ends of short hose pieces to them. The front petcock outlet is just for PRIME, so can be capped off, or T/Y'd with the rear outlet which is RUN/Reserve. Run right petcock hose to LEFT carb bank and vice versa, not too much of a loop BELOW the carb inlet height. Cap off the vac. hose to the #2 inlet boot that controls the OCTY. Also you can try running some SeaFoam or Techroline in the fuel tank for a few tankfuls and see how that makes the low rpm throttle response, any better? If not, then a good cleaning may be in order, but remember you need to be able to do a vacuum synchronization afterwards otherwise they won't work together for all 4 cylinders!

Neutral is between 1st and 2nd, and requires a firm action to properly shift up into 2nd. However IF the bike then stutters/jumps while accelerating in 2nd, then that could be the sign of the trans repair being needed. Again, see tech tips.

T.C.

[Bonz]

In my experience from owning both, the Plexifairing III has the better lower leg coverage compared to a Slipstreamer Enterprise if you are looking for the best touring screen to handle all weather.

I am tall as well at 6'11" and line of sight is just a few inches over the top of the Plexi III on my 80 SG.

[IanDMacDonald]

I can't remember what I have, but I like it in the Fall. DON'T get the SpitFire. It's horrible. I think I have the National City "something" GT.

[jetmechmarty]

This is the Plexifairing III from National Cycle. I have one.
Once you get it properly installed, it comes off and goes back on with ease. It's huge and not good when it's hot out. It's great when it's raining.

Don't be intimidated by the plumbing. It's really not a big deal. It may seem counterintuitive, but I plumbed the left carburetors to the right petcock and the right carburetors to the left petcock. The extra length allows me to raise the tank and the bends are less severe.

The vacuum shutoff valve is a safety device. It is supposed to shut off fuel flow to the carburetors in an accident. If it works properly, it also cuts off the fuel whenever the engine isn't running.

You can preempt the 2nd gear fix. All you have to do is remove the countershaft and move the washer from one side of the 4th gear wheel to the other. It won't cost a thing, unless you want me to do it for you.

[bikerphil]

I like the Spitfire, It's like riding naked without the wind pushing on your chest.

[GUNNY1966]

I've owned a '79 Special for a year or so and have finally decided to invest a few bucks to to make it a more reliable daily rider and two-up bike.

We need a windshield, I'm tall and make a great sail, so we need a fairly large one. Not interested in the fairing approach, although I know the Vetter was very popular. Anyone have a recommendation on a period looking recurve model?

I've swapped out the original bars, but would swap back to fit the right shield if needed.

I also have a backrest luggage rack but I am missing the standoffs for the shock tower end of the supports. Anyone know the size or where I canttt find them?

The bike runs, starts on the first crank with some choke, runs rough until it warms up, but once there, it runs good, best over 4K.

What next?
The spaghetti of fuel lines under the tank is scary and some of the clamps are now tywraps.

Card rebuild?

Second gear fix? Seems to shift fine, but you can't be timid with it either.
How expensive is this fix?

What else?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Marc

( A ) Plexifairing III

( B ) Try Here -

http://stores.ebay.com/sichleycycleparts/

( C ) I've done a lot of work on mine as it had similar issues. I replaced the intake tubes, All the vacuum lines caps ect. & just yesterday I replaced the O-rings in the needle valves. Here are some links to show you. I also provided a step by step on how to do the carb needle valve O-rings, it's not that hard!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Yamaha-XJ-1100-XJ1100-MAXIM-Carburetor-Intake-Manifold-Boot-FREE-GASKETS/192160625821?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

See page one LAST POST for the carbs ( o-ring needle valve )

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46765

( D ) Here's some fuel line w/clamps & filters!

I cut off the 2 end barbs to make them a better fit!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Fuel-T-Brass-hose-line-barb-petrol-tee-fitting-motorcycle-automotive/142235272516?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-InLine-1-4-Gas-Fuel-Line-Filter-CLAMPS-ATV-UTV-Snowmobile-Quad-CLEAR/132045000812?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-5-16-8mm-Chrome-3-5-Glass-Reusable-Washable-Inline-Fuel-Filter/172471485227?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Card rebuild?

( E ) See the following thread!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5090

[jetmechmarty]

I like the Spitfire, It's like riding naked without the wind pushing on your chest.

I had one. It was. I was hit by a rock on the interstate. The Spitfire went to pieces. Small is OK, but more substantial at the same time. Most of them are made from tempered Plexiglas, including the Plexifairing III.

[TopCatGr58]

I had one. It was. I was hit by a rock on the interstate. The Spitfire went to pieces. Small is OK, but more substantial at the same time. Most of them are made from tempered Plexiglas, including the Plexifairing III.

Just to followup on that info(thanks Marty). As their names say "Plexi" indicates that they are made from Plexiglass....and are brittle and can shatter upon strong enough impact. They are more scratch resistant though. The other material you would possibly want to look for is LEXAN, which is a more durable material, it doesn't SHATTER and is much more impact resistant, like if a large rock, tire tread piece, or thrown brick/bottle, etc.! The Lexan isn't as scratch resistant so more care is required when cleaning/polishing to keep it as clear as possible....think of old eye glasses that you've cleaned so much you have microscratches all over them, you can still see thru them, but they are hazy!

T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

Just to followup on that info(thanks Marty). As their names say "Plexi" indicates that they are made from Plexiglass....and are brittle and can shatter upon strong enough impact. They are more scratch resistant though. The other material you would possibly want to look for is LEXAN, which is a more durable material, it doesn't SHATTER and is much more impact resistant, like if a large rock, tire tread piece, or thrown brick/bottle, etc.! The Lexan isn't as scratch resistant so more care is required when cleaning/polishing to keep it as clear as possible....think of old eye glasses that you've cleaned so much you have microscratches all over them, you can still see thru them, but they are hazy!

T.C.

T.C.
Lexan is pretty rare and expensive, though they are out there. No arguement about its qualities. Tempered Plexiglas is decent stuff. I have managed to break four. The Spitfire was the only one to shatter. The others just broke.