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  • Oil plug washer

    Mine doesn't have one. I changed oil last year and no leaks. I see on some threads that it helps from overtighting. If it's a little thick do you guys think it will be ok to use or just leave off. Thanks for all the input last year on oil filter and proper way to do. Was easy when you know what to look for and diagrams.
    79 XS11SF

  • #2
    14 mm (I think) nylon washers are good for preventing over tightening, withstand the oil temperatures, and make it easy to remove. I use nylon washers on the fill plugs for the middle and final drives also. There is nothing quite like a stuck fill plug!
    Skids (Sid Hansen)

    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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    • #3
      Washers

      14mm is correct. Can use aluminum, plastic, or copper. I've even seen a spark washer used. Had the best luck with aluminum and copper. There were some aluminum ones on eBay. Copper can be had from hardware or big box stores.

      Or you can buy this OEM one from Partzilla: 214-11198-01-00 for $1.67.
      1981 XS1100H Venturer
      K&N Air Filter
      ACCT
      Custom Paint by Deitz
      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
      Stebel Nautilus Horn
      EBC Front Rotors
      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

      Mike

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      • #4
        Thanks 14mm is what I got. I'm just worried to thick. I guess I'll see tonight when I change it.
        79 XS11SF

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        • #5
          Mine actually had a spark plug for a drain plug when I got it. The ceramic end was broken off. Yeh it leaked.
          79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
          79 SF parts bike.

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          • #6
            I found that using a copper washer worked way better than the plastic material ones. Makes for easy removal without being so tight, and not so much as a weep in drain plug area.
            81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by motoman View Post
              I found that using a copper washer worked way better than the plastic material ones. Makes for easy removal without being so tight, and not so much as a weep in drain plug area.
              The nylon washers never get tight after the fact, and never leak unless you use gorilla torque.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by red bandit View Post
                Mine actually had a spark plug for a drain plug when I got it. The ceramic end was broken off. Yeh it leaked.
                That is funny. You need spacial coils for that! I wonder if they did that foe the extra length need from bad threaded hole?
                Skids (Sid Hansen)

                Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sorry for the xsive typos!!!
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Oil bolt washer was to thick to use but no leaks. Just thru oil filter bolt which I isn't tighten enough cause always afraid of over tightening. Just a few extra turns and no leaks. Then I overfilled oil. Guess I should do in more well lit and not so late . I'll suck some out to proper level today before the long ride.
                    79 XS11SF

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                    • #11
                      Washer

                      Washer is too thick only if there isn't enough thread engagement to safely tighten drain bolt. There is definitely concern when using a steel fastener on an aluminum thread. The oil pan threads have something to be desired and are a weak design. A smart fix is to helicoil those threads.
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MPittma100 View Post
                        Washer is too thick only if there isn't enough thread engagement to safely tighten drain bolt. There is definitely concern when using a steel fastener on an aluminum thread. The oil pan threads have something to be desired and are a weak design. A smart fix is to helicoil those threads.
                        In the "helpers" section of the auto parts store, I once found a replacement drain pan bolt. It was longer and was slotted on the end to cut and clean threads. It also came with nylon washers. It worked for me. The head on the one I got was a bit of a pain because it was larger and required a bigger socket. The bigger socket with a ratchet didn't fit well between the filter cup and the drain plug, so I had to change the filter with each oil change.
                        Skids (Sid Hansen)

                        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                        Comment

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