Should I buy it? (81 xs11)

[sidecarKev]

Originally posted by Czekus21
I forgot to mention to sidecarKev, NICE BIKE It'd be nice to have somthing like that around myplace. My dog is jealous cauz he can't ride. I rigged up a seat for hime but when we started to go, he freaked out and dove off. Anyway, nice unit, ( I say that everytime I see your bike )

Thanks Czekus21. If you've checked out my webste you've seen what I started with. (site needs to be updated though)

Dogs love sidecars. So do the women, especially when the dog is with.

[John]

Sidecar Kev...I just read your web page. Cool, but tell me... did you ever get it done? You just leave us hanging after March 10.
Actually, it looks like you did one hell of a job.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there CRXSi90,

Congrats on your acquisition of your 81 XS. There is an "Owner's" manual, not a repair manual for download from a link in the LINK's section, it's about 6MB, in PDF format, with pictures and such, so you can see the basics about the controls, oil locations and types, etc.! I put it there myself, copied from my own original manual for the 81 H/SH!

Kev covered most of your previous mentioned problems. Review the tech tips and do searches about the Octopus, removing/bypassing it, etc.!!

Pull your clutch cable off, and test it for smooth sliding, if it binds or sticks, then try lubing it first, the oil can cake up and also some rust can get inside it and cause it to stick, making it hard to pull, and gets worse when you have the bars at full turn, also could be binding, follow it thru the frame, make sure it's not bent too much as it runs around the engine and down to the side cover!

Your handle just says 81 XS, but with all of those hoses, you've probably got a Special, and if it has the original "Buckhorn" bars, they can be an awkward angle, many folks have changed theirs, some went with flat/straight bars. I wanted the Special style of cruiser position, got some used Early year GOLD WING bars, and they fit nicely, better angle for the hands, but still with a modest swept back position and style!? Just make sure you get 7/8" diameter, not 1"!!!

The upper front brake line is supposed to be joined to a metal adapter where the 2 lower brake hoses connect, and all three are held in there with those special hollow brake bolts!!! The metal splitter is supposed to be held in place with a bracket to the forks, but that may have broken, and so I'm hoping that is what you meant by the "wormgear" clamp holding it in place!?

You're familiar with Harleys, and your local shop probably sells the braided stainless steel lines, 10mm fittings, just need to measure the lengths you need for all three hoses, and you can replace them with those. They will really help the feel and responsiveness of the front brakes(the most important ones). IF you get old used vinyl ones, they may stretch and flex under pressure, just like the OEM vinyl ones do anyways. I just did a search on that web site(cycle-parts.com), just for the upper hose they wanted $33.00 for OEM Vinyl, and you can get the SS ones for close to that price, so why not invest in the best, they'll last longer than you'll have the bike!!! Okay, time to shut up!

[CRXSi90]

good information!

edit: dang, no pictures...I'll work on it...

OK, I started pouring some penetrating oil on the brake pivot....it improved, I think, but I can still push it up a little more. I'll have to ride it again to see if it is dragging. Here is a picture, I couldn't figure out how to disassemble the pivot. I undid the pinch bolt for the pedal, and slid it part way off, but the shaft didn't slide back at all. How do you disassemble it?



Here is a picture of the petcock, just for the heck of it...



Now here are the lines I need help with...: Dunno how the situation of the middle ones are...I'll check if needed...




2 questions here... Should the air things on the shocks have valve stem covers? I have some, just need to know if I should put them on... Also, there are the worm-gear clamps...any guesses? Do I need new lines?



one question here, what is this plastic box for? Tool kit or something, or does it have a function? :



Lastly (for now, I think), this poor fuse box needs major help. I'll get a better picture with clearer colors and such when we try to piece it back together.



Do you recommend just cleaning the brake master cylinders now? I'm thinking of just bleeding it and hope that problems don't develop...any suggestions? Maybe the rear needs to be cleaned, cause I think it is dragging.

Thanks, Kevin

[fredintoon]

Red X's

Hi Kevin,
no pics on your last post, all I see is red X's in little boxes.
About the rear brake pedal, if it moves better with penetrating oil you can probably get away with just keeping up the dosage and hopefully it will start to move easier yet. The rear brake pedal should have a spring to pull it up again. Check that yours is in place and working properly.
If your front brake hoses have a worm drive hose clamp ANYWHERE on them, they've been messed with by the dreaded PO. Safety says, change 'em out. If you have an XS11SE (tiny gas tank, wheel in front of fork tubes) you also have the Weird Harold swivel caliper tapered brake pad front brakes. They really need all the help they can get so stainless steel wire braid reinforced brake lines are the way to go. I'd run two long lines from a double banjo bolt on the master cylinder, one line directly to each caliper.
The cost is in the end fittings with hoses so 2 longs cost less than 3 shorts.
Again, if you have a Special you can lose the gas line octopus if you wish. Just run a hose from the rear nozzle of each tap to the T-fitting between the pair of carbs and blank off the front (Prime) nozzles on the gas taps and the vacuum connectors on the carb. manifolds. Remember to turn on both taps to go and turn both taps off when you park.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[chevy45412001]

brake arm removeal

i had to tap my brake arm lever out with a hammer.First un hook the spring that returns the arm,its hard to see you have to get on the ground and look at it(or i you have a bike lift way cool).Also unhook the brake light switch spring and then tap it out as gently as possible!you don't want to damage the splines or mushroom the end of shaft ,you know what that will bring later!I suggest a rubber mallet.once apart sand off the rust and clean it up good,i also rolled up the paper and sanded the inside tube where the brake mecinizm lives too,gave it a smathering of wheel bearing grease and it slid back in nicely,hooked up the springs and things, and away i went. only took 20 min or so. (this repair was on my XJ ,i'm not farmiliar with the other XS'S but i believe there similar on this repair.) good luck.oops almost forgot,you have to take off the arm that pushes on the m/c too.

[TopCatGr58]

Okay Folks,

I was able to see the photos by opening a second browser, going to my Imagestation folder first, then clicking on properties for each photo in his message, copying the URL, pasting it into the 2nd browser, and clicked "GO" and they showed up.

PS, CRXSi90, did you D/L that owner's manual, it would answer many questions for you?!

He's got a Standard. Has the vacuum advance hose going correctly to the #2 carb port. He has long hoses connected to the intake ports on #1 and #4. It also shows a long hose connected to Intake Port #2, running back across carbs, but doesn't show what it's connected to. The #4 hose has a "T" on it, a bolt sealing another hose coming from the "T", but the other end of the "T" is OPEN!, Same for the Hose on #1 port!!!

The pix of his petcocks show that they are stock Standard type, with hoses connected to the vacuum control valve, but can't see where it is going to!?

There is lots of rust on the pipes and brake lever, he just needs to work harder to clean it!!

His fuse block shows a broken fuse clip, bypassed with plastic case inline fuse! Typical P.O.repair!

His brake line pix wasn't very large in area it covered, kinda hard to tell exactly what I was looking at, EXCEPT that the rubber/vinyl hydraulic hose was clamped onto the end of a small brass/copper tube with only a wormgear hose clamp!?

The box is the Security Chain(missing!) holder.

CRXSi, You can get rubber/vinyl vacuum port caps at the auto store to seal your #1 and #4 intake ports. Or you can just the hose very short and put a screw in the end!? The long hose going from the left lower engine case up to the #2 "carb" port is correct, just inspect for cracks, pull cover off, pull hose from port and apply vacuum and ensure vacuum advance mechanism moves freely, and stays there as long as you maintain suction! Put it back on the #2 "CARB PORT".

Now follow the upper hoses on the petcocks, these are the vacuum hoses that actuate the petcocks, the bottom hoses are the fuel supply lines that go to your lower "T" fittings on your carbs. The upper "T" fittings should go up to the airbox for venting!! **Standard Owner's correct me if I'm wrong about the hoses...I only have a Special, and not exactly sure about the petcock hoses??

HTH. T.C.

[CRXSi90]

You really gotta let me try this one more time, even though TopCatgr58 did an amazing job of describing them...I feel stupid for not just doing as well as he did in the first place...Thanks You

This thing is starting to seem like a lot of work, more than I was hoping for...Oh well, I'll keep plugging away and hope I come out on top, smiling. I just broke the high-beam switch...any ideas for a replacement? Seems like a SOB...I bet they don't sell just the clear plastic piece I need... When I reassembled it, the headlight didn't work either. Any ideas about what is wrong there? I just disassembled the switch and put it back together, with a light coat of oil to prevent corrosion...Tip: don't spray contact cleaner anywhere near the high beam switch...it will shatter it from temperature difference...

Originally posted by CRXSi90
edit: dang, no pictures...I'll work on it...

OK, I started pouring some penetrating oil on the brake pivot....it improved, I think, but I can still push it up a little more. I'll have to ride it again to see if it is dragging. Here is a picture, I couldn't figure out how to disassemble the pivot. I undid the pinch bolt for the pedal, and slid it part way off, but the shaft didn't slide back at all. How do you disassemble it?



Here is a picture of the petcock, just for the heck of it...



Now here are the lines I need help with...: Dunno how the situation of the middle ones are...I'll check if needed...




2 questions here... Should the air things on the shocks have valve stem covers? I have some, just need to know if I should put them on... Also, there are the worm-gear clamps...any guesses? Do I need new lines?



one question here, what is this plastic box for? Tool kit or something, or does it have a function? :



Lastly (for now, I think), this poor fuse box needs major help. I'll get a better picture with clearer colors and such when we try to piece it back together.



Do you recommend just cleaning the brake master cylinders now? I'm thinking of just bleeding it and hope that problems don't develop...any suggestions? Maybe the rear needs to be cleaned, cause I think it is dragging.

Thanks, Kevin

His brake line pix wasn't very large in area it covered, kinda hard to tell exactly what I was looking at, EXCEPT that the rubber/vinyl hydraulic hose was clamped onto the end of a small brass/copper tube with only a wormgear hose clamp!?

so can I just replace the upper hose then? The lowers look OK, so I'd be tempted to leave them... Also, I want to clean the front Master Cylinder...does the wire for the brake light sensor switch thing unplug, or what?

I'll get to work making sure all the lines are hooked up right...some confusion: What is the difference between "Carb port" and "Intake port"? Where should the upper port on the petcock go to? (What vaccum source?) So I'm gonna plug off 1 and 4 intake ports. What was their original configuration? Where were they supposed to go?

Thanks! (sorry if you're having trouble following along...the lack of organization of my posts is bothering me too...is there some tool for posting on message boards where you can format it how you want, with bold and quote and stuff, and then just paste it in? )

p.s. tell me if the pictures worked...

p.p.s., yes, I did d/l the owners manual...now that I know for sure that it is a standard H, I can learn more. I just printed off the wiring diagram on 2 pages to tape together. I wish it was a little more crisp, but hey, what can I ask for in a freebie!

[fredintoon]

nice pics

Hi Kevin,
you said "undid the pinchbolt". That bolt sits in a groove in the splines. You must completely remove the bolt to get the pedal off.
Penetrating oil anna prybar will shift her once the bolt is removed.
My rear M/C was rusted solid when I got my XS11 so I'd no option but to tear it down. Luckily it cleaned up OK and the existing seals were still good to give a zero-cost rebuild.
Probably a good idea for you to check your master cylinder for proper function while you are greasing up the pedal pivot. It will give better access to the rear brake area if you remove the two pieces of the footpeg casting and take it to your friendly local TIG-welder while it's off the bike. Must be a weak point, my right-side footpeg casting was broken just where yours is. Mind you, the damfool PO HAD tried to use it as a sidecar attachment point.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[chevy45412001]

hey 90

One word of caution, dont do all the repairs at once BRAIN overload will definetly occure. Do one thing at a time untill it's done proper. Than move on to next repair. I'm getting dizzy with all the fixes already..lol .This site isn't going anywhere soon, Try to get the most important stuff first and so on. And your right there will be a lot to do on your scoot,just DON'T get discourged you have a lot of help on this site to get you through. I think it was Bobbie Darrin who said DON'T WORRY BE

[CRXSi90]

CLIFF NOTES OF MAIN QUESTIONS @ END...

Ahh, thanks...that's just what I needed to cool me down.

I closed off the 1 and 4 vacuum lines tonight, and snipped a bit off the vacuum advance line because it was split...it looks like it wouldn't have been working. I think all that is taken care of, then...could be tidied up a bit, but it should function better. I'm thinking once I get this on the road, I'll run some carb cleaner additive through with the gas and hope that it does some good. I suppose I'll also need to check and see if those carb boots are leaking. Can I seal them w/ RTV if they are?

I should probably check the carb diaphragms too...can I get access to them by just removing the gas tank, and not take a chance at wrecking my carb boots?

I think I'll take your advice and go through the master cylinders.

One other thing: it seems like I broke the headlight switch...I only broke the little part with the thumb-switch on it off, but I had it off and cleaned it up, attempted to glue it (failed)...now the headlight doesn't work...How is the switch available from yamaha...I didn't see it on partsnmore, so I'm afraid that I'll have to rig something up.

cliff notes:

The vacuum advance goes to "carb port" on the second carb in on that side?

Seal leaking carb boots w/ RTV?

Inspect carb diaphragms w/out removing carbs (just remove tank)?

Ideas for headlight switch repair? (and troubleshooting...I'm gonna poke around some too...)

Thanks, Kevin

[JohnSg]

I can see the pictures now, thanks.

Also, I want to clean the front Master Cylinder...does the wire for the brake light sensor switch thing unplug, or what?

The front brake switch has a little tab that needs to be depressed before it can be pulled out. On the bottom of the housing where the switch is located is the hole where you can insert a small tool like an allen wrench to depress said tab.

[sidecarKev]

Yep, vacuum advance line goes to #2 carb port NOT intake manifold port.

You could seal intakes with RTV, not sure it would hold up though. Check to see if leaking first.

You should be able to inspect diaphrams without removing carbs just like you said remove tank and go for it. Just be careful not to tear one. If you do or there is already hole there might be a way to fix it.

Ebay might be your best bet or maybe someone here has one they would sell you. Probably just replace the entire control for that side. Also remember that the headlight only comes on IF the bike is running, not if the key is turned on, it has to actually be running. This screwed me up for a while, I was used to the headlight coming on with the key.

[fredintoon]

What goes around - - - -

- - - - comes around.
About the headlight coming on automatically when the engine starts (to be pedantic, it comes on when the alternator starts charging); I sold one of my XS650s to finance the XS11. That XS650 had been extensively re-wired (or rather, de-wired) for simplicity. The neutral light ended up the big red one in the console rather than the little green one in the tach, a pleasing effect I thought.
Now on my XS11, the PO had either removed or bypassed that system so that you turn the key and ALL the lights come on. This is OK by me as I have a big ol' car battery on my sidecar rig with lotsa cranking amps BUT what I also have is a high beam indicator which has been turned into a low beam indicator which is rather annoying- - - - Ah well - - - - Something else to fix when the snow flies.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again CRXSi90,

Glad you got the photos working. A better shot of the brake hose/lines would be helpful. Where the upper hose attaches to the lower hoses, is that Metal Junction block and hose bolts there? If so, then yes, you can replace just the upper hose providing it has the 10mm eye openings, ~15degree bends, so that it will be a bolt on process.

Hopefully, you've now figured out that the Carb port is the small metallic port on the carb body that the vacuum advance connects to, the others on the Intake Boots are for synchronization of the carbs, most of the time they are capped off, usually only is needed for the vacuum lines for the petcocks. I didn't see anybody post any corrections to what I had stated earlier about the petcock lines, the upper ones being to a vacuum source, the lower ones to the carb inlet "T's".

The intake boots can be badly cracked on the outside, but still sealed on the inside, spray some WD40 or starter fluid around them whilst it's running and listen for changes in rpm, if so, then they are leaking. You can get spray on Plasti-Dip rubber sealant to spray around the outsides, or you can apply a generous layer of Black RTV around them, whichever you find less messy. I wasn't as impressed with the Spray on Rubber, though, in how it looked afterwards, didn't fully cover up the cracks!

Once you get inside the tops of the carbs, if you do find cracks or pinholes in the diaphragms, you can use that Spray on Rubber to seal them as well!!! Just go lightly so as to not make them too stiff.

Ebay may be what you'll need to get another left hand control set for your lights, turn signals, or just decipher the wiring diagram and wire a switch to those wires!?
T.C.